IPV D2 announced.

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rhelton

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I hear sweet juices especially fruit and bakery flavors leave the most gunk behind. I do like s warm vape and I bet that's also a contributing factor.
I have some 304 SS WIRE on order. I don't see how the coil material determines Gunky-ness tho.
Ive read a little around about it and some think its because kanthal reaches higher temps and burns off a percentage of it leading to longer life.
 
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rhelton

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. Correct me if I'm wrong. For instance why do they recommend running more watts on a lower ohm coil for the Atlantis or subtank? (I'm talking the numbers on the premades)

Because the vape is .... at low wattage. The problem is the lower the ohms, the higher the wattage needed to achieve the vape you want, which in turn raises the amps(current) which will wear your battery's and devices out prematurely. Even on a mech mod you run into problems with springs collapsing, magnets de-magnatizing and wrecking your cells.

Higher ohm load = lower amp requirement. Anytime you can do that its a good thing. High volts is easier on your equipment.

On a mechmod you almost need to subohm to get a quality vape. 3.7 volts does not do a whole lot to a coil above .50ohm.

Dont get me wrong I subohm. I do a mixture of both, but I dont really ever go bellow .50 there is not a reason too. My raptor is a 10amp board the sweet spot for it is really .60-.70 but you can get a kick ... vape because you can run that at 6 volts. Look at the Hexohm and how popular it is. Its because its awesome lol.
 
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Scotticus93

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Because the vape is .... at low wattage. The problem is the lower the ohms, the higher the wattage needed to achieve the vape you want, which in turn raises the amps(current) which will wear your battery's and devices out prematurely. Even on a mech mod you run into problems with springs collapsing, magnets de-magnatizing and wrecking your cells.

Higher ohm load = lower amp requirement. Anytime you can do that its a good thing. High volts is easier on your equipment.

On a mechmod you almost need to subohm to get a quality vape. 3.7 volts does not do a whole lot to a coil above .50ohm.
Doesn't higher wattage make more vapor and hotter tho? Why doesn't anyone still sub ohms. There's no way millions of people could be mislead to still think sub ohm is better in regulated mods. Is there? Now I feel dumb. I'll have to try building higher sometime. I guess cxress is right about wire gauge mattering too
 

Croak

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Surface area has a pretty significant impact on the vape, the same atomizer with the same juice running at the same temperature WILL have a different taste, density of vapor, etc, with lower or higher gauge wire.

Not all sub-ohm fans are ignorant of the advantages of regulated mods (I'd venture say most aren't). But we still prefer using thicker wire for the "quality" of the vape, be it flavor or clouds or a combination of both, and build deck constraints, coil mass issues (ramp up and cool down), etc, mandate that if we want to keep enjoying that type of Kanthal vape, we need to build low resistance.

But I don't fault people who like vaping high ohm thin wire builds. Why? Because they LIKE it. And that's reason enough for me.
 
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rhelton

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Dang just looked on steam engine. It is less amps with high watts at high ohms. And more voltage. Really changes my perspective things. Tho I find better vape on drippers at sub ohm. Or maybe that was just a placebo effect
Your not dumb man. Its just nobody talks about this really. I like big coil builds in my drippers, twisted wire, claptons etc. They usually come out above .50 and thats not abnormal for me because I was exposed to vaping at a earlier time than you probably. There is nothing wrong with rocking low ohm builds your not doing anything wrong. Exposure to new things is always a good thing and having that information available to you will only help you in the future. I dont like running 24-22-20 guage but that does not mean its a bad thing.

I think its cool that your curious enough to search out some answers about what were talking about :D
 
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Scotticus93

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Your not dumb man. Its just nobody talks about this really. I like big coil builds in my drippers, twisted wire, claptons etc. They usually come out above .50 and thats not abnormal for me because I was exposed to vaping at a earlier time than you probably. There is nothing wrong with rocking low ohm builds your not doing anything wrong. Exposure to new things is always a good thing and having that information available to you will only help you in the future. I dont like running 24-22-20 guage but that does not mean its a bad thing.

I think its cool that your curious enough to search out some answers about what were talking about :D
You're a cool guy. Yeah I just bought 24. I'm still running .5 ohms but maybe I'll do dual coil for .25. I might need a 30 amp battery depending on what watts I run it at.
 

Scotticus93

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Surface area has a pretty significant impact on the vape, the same atomizer with the same juice running at the same temperature WILL have a different taste, density of vapor, etc, with lower or higher gauge wire.

Not all sub-ohm fans are ignorant of the advantages of regulated mods (I'd venture say most aren't). But we still prefer using thicker wire for the "quality" of the vape, be it flavor or clouds or a combination of both, and build deck constraints, coil mass issues (ramp up and cool down), etc, mandate that if we want to keep enjoying that type of Kanthal vape, we need to build low resistance.

But I don't fault people who like vaping high ohm thin wire builds. Why? Because they LIKE it. And that's reason enough for me.
So the thicker wires are lower in resistance but don't they have a slower ramp up/cool down time? Are you saying we have to try to dual and quad them to get the resistance down? Or is twisted 28g better? Is that equivalent to 24g or does twisted have better ramp up times like 28 regular?
 

Carnage9270

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It's less about the gauge of the wire, and more about the surface area of the coil. You can create an above ohm coil with the same surface area of a sub ohm coil. That coil calculator will help with that. Set your resistance then play with the wire gauge and heat Flux until you get a coil with the right amount of wraps to get the surface area you want. All without using batteries at levels that border on unsafe. Especially with all the batteries that falsify their ratings.
 

Croak

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I was just pointing out the fallacy of "you don't need to sub-ohm anymore thanks to regulated mods".

And it's not a matter of deliberately pushing resistance down when using a regulated mod, it's simply a function of using thicker wire (and that includes twists, claptons, etc) that creates the low resistance.

Coil mass is coil mass, doesn't matter if you twist thinner wire to get to the same mass as a thicker single strand, it will have nearly the same ramp up and cool down time. The advantage of twisted for most builders on regulated mods is subjectively better flavor and vapor production, because of the twists in the coil acting as extra wicking, holding more juice on the coil. That doesn't include Kanthal/Ni200 twists, where the purpose of the Kanthal is generally just to add more structural strength (at the cost of more coil mass and the longer cool down time that comes with it).
 

Carnage9270

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So the thicker wires are lower in resistance but don't they have a slower ramp up/cool down time? Are you saying we have to try to dual and quad them to get the resistance down? Or is twisted 28g better? Is that equivalent to 24g or does twisted have better ramp up times like 28 regular?
Lower the gauge the longer the ramp up time. 28 Gauge is almost instant ramp time.
 

rhelton

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You're a cool guy. Yeah I just bought 24. I'm still running .5 ohms but maybe I'll do dual coil for .25. I might need a 30 amp battery depending on what watts I run it at.
Thanks and I think your a pretty smart dude. Most people wont search things out like you did. There are many misconceptions about vaping equipment, how they work and how to use them. Check out Vapingturtles post in this thread. He posted some links with great information on dc/dc converters and how they work. And gave some really good information along with it. The more knowledge you have about the products we use the better your vape experience will be.

And your friends will be amazed lol
 
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Scotticus93

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It's less about the gauge of the wire, and more about the surface area of the coil. You can create an above ohm coil with the same surface area of a sub ohm coil. That coil calculator will help with that. Set your resistance then play with the wire gauge and heat Flux until you get a coil with the right amount of wraps to get the surface area you want. All without using batteries at levels that border on unsafe. Especially with all the batteries that falsify their ratings.
I'm confused how do I know what surface area is good? And what does heat flux mean anyway. Is high or low heat flux good or do I want it somewhere in the middle?
 

Scotticus93

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Thanks and I think your a pretty smart dude. Most people wont search things out like you did. There are many misconceptions about vaping equipment, how they work and how to use them. Check out Vapingturtles post in this thread. He posted some links with great information on dc/dc converters and how they work. And gave some really good information along with it. The more knowledge you have about the products we use the better your vape experience will be.

And your friends will be amazed lol
I'm confused lol. Thanks I am decently smart. Idk I know how to make coils and stuff and have decent knowledge of ohms law. I'm scared to click on that link or is it at least somewhat in lehmans terms?
 

rhelton

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I'm confused lol. Thanks I am decently smart. Idk I know how to make coils and stuff and have decent knowledge of ohms law. I'm scared to click on that link or is it at least somewhat in lehmans terms?
Its not bad lol. Back onto the subject of the D2 we kinda got sidetracked a little haha. This little rocks man, I got a really nice twisted build vaping some RY4 and its delicious. My last coil I dry fired it and it got too hot I think. When I rewicked it the flavor was off and it kinda burned my lungs just a little. I did not go any further and ripped it out and made a new one. I wont be dry firing nickel any more. Maybe with some water on it to not let it get too hot.
 

rhelton

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Due to the crap paint job I figure I will just leave it in the rubber sleeve and charge with the battery in it. Does this mod require a special charging adapter, other than the cable included obviously? Can this be plugged into my computer or a DC 5V 500mA USB wall adapter?
Yes you just cant go over 1amp, ive been using it on my laptop with no problems.
 
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