IPV D2 announced.

[Scotticus93]

Nah. It wont be that loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong. It will be pretty loooooooooooooooooooooooooong, just not as loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong as you think.

Why will it be so long? I'll admit guys I'm kind of a dumb dumb. As much as I like making my own coils and juice. I'm gonna get some prebuilt tanks and keep buying juice. Thinking of getting a starre pro. Guys in my new vape shop in town are super nice. I might go in for build tips. I think making juice will come with time. I just don't wanna invest in getting like twenty different flavors cuz all the good mixes have 2 or usually at least 3 flavors in it. I'm just glad I'm not smoking and I'm barely using snus. Which I should probably get off of but won't right now

 

[Croak]

Follow this link (it has a 0.3 ohm 24AWG parallel build plugged in already):
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

While you're there, look at the Heat Flux and Heat capacity on the right side of the page. Heat flux is how hot a coil will get at a set wattage, with 150-220ish (anything green to yellow) being a warm to mildly hot vape, and where most folks generally like to be. That's in the 40-60w range with the 24AWG parallel you were talking about.

Now look below Heat Flux, to Heat Capacity. That's how much the coil resists heating and cooling, the bigger the number, the greater the lag to heat, and the longer it takes too cool. Play around with the wire size on the left, notice that moving up to 26AWG (or going to single, non-parallel) cuts your heat capacity in half, and your heat flux is higher as well (meaning you need less wattage to get the same temps). There's a balance to be struck here, between surface area, resistance targets, etc. But anything over 50 mj/K will have lag up to several seconds.

Anyway, getting back to your original build, if you set your wattage at the 40-60w range that produces a comfortable vape temp, you'll be sucking on your atty quite some time to reach that temperature, and if you increase wattage high enough to overcome the high heat capacity lag, you'll end up overshooting your comfortable temps very early in the draw, and run a real risk of burnt flavor if not outright burnt hits. To compensate for that problem, you need a lot of airflow, which impacts flavor, and requires a hefty lung hit.

See the problem? And maybe you can see why the benefits of temp control are so appealing when its working properly. The ability to reach your desirable temp quickly, the ability to take long steady draws with no worries and with consistent temps during the whole draw, and no need to be a human vacuum cleaner to provide enough airflow to cool down your over-powered vape.

Finally, I think 24 AWG Kanthal/NiChrome (and lower) is utter crap for dual coil builds in regulated mods. It's really only useful for mech mod builds IMHO.

 

[Scotticus93]

Follow this link (it has a 0.3 ohm 24AWG parallel build plugged in already):
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

While you're there, look at the Heat Flux and Heat capacity on the right side of the page. Heat flux is how hot a coil will get at a set wattage, with 150-220ish (anything green to yellow) being a warm to mildly hot vape, and where most folks generally like to be. That's in the 40-60w range with the 24AWG parallel you were talking about.

Now look below Heat Flux, to Heat Capacity. That's how much the coil resists heating and cooling, the bigger the number, the greater the lag to heat, and the longer it takes too cool. Play around with the wire size on the left, notice that moving up to 26AWG (or going to single, non-parallel) cuts your heat capacity in half, and your heat flux is higher as well (meaning you need less wattage to get the same temps). There's a balance to be struck here, between surface area, resistance targets, etc. But anything over 50 mj/K will have lag up to several seconds.

Anyway, getting back to your original build, if you set your wattage at the 40-60w range that produces a comfortable vape temp, you'll be sucking on your atty quite some time to reach that temperature, and if you increase wattage high enough to overcome the high heat capacity lag, you'll end up overshooting your comfortable temps very early in the draw, and run a real risk of burnt flavor if not outright burnt hits. To compensate for that problem, you need a lot of airflow, which impacts flavor, and requires a hefty lung hit.

See the problem? And maybe you can see why the benefits of temp control are so appealing when its working properly. The ability to reach your desirable temp quickly, the ability to take long steady draws with no worries and with consistent temps during the whole draw, and no need to be a human vacuum cleaner to provide enough airflow to cool down your over-powered vape.

Finally, I think 24 AWG Kanthal/NiChrome (and lower) is utter crap for dual coil builds in regulated mods. It's really only useful for mech mod builds IMHO.

Why only mechs? Thanks for the useful info tho. I really appreciate it. Once I find my damn nickel I'll try another tc build. This kanthal is doing decent for now

 

[Scotticus93]

I'm getting strong nic hit cuz I'm doing 12 lol. A little drunk too. This mod will do. By far the best I've ever had. One day I'll get an sx mini: my next mod will either be a cheap squonker or an x cube 2.

 

[Croak]

Why only mechs? Thanks for the useful info tho. I really appreciate it. Once I find my damn nickel I'll try another tc build. This kanthal is doing decent for now

Because the only way to control power output on a mech mod is by changing the resistance of the coil. The lower the resistance, the more power will flow from the battery, which is why people started "sub-ohming" in the first place, and why lower resistance thick wire is so popular with mech mod users, especially the cloud chasing types. A 0.3 ohm coil on a fresh (4.2v) single 18650 mech will be putting out around 40-50 watts. A 0.5 ohm coil on the same setup will only be putting out around 30 watts, and a 1 ohm coil will be all the way down to 16 watts.

But with a regulated device, you can just say "I want XX watts" or "XX volts" and it'll deliver that (for the most part, they have high and low voltage limits that vary depending on the mod), doesn't matter what the resistance is, or if the battery is fresh or not. It regulates the power. Get it?

 

[rhelton]

Why will it be so long? I'll admit guys I'm kind of a dumb dumb. As much as I like making my own coils and juice. I'm gonna get some prebuilt tanks and keep buying juice. Thinking of getting a starre pro. Guys in my new vape shop in town are super nice. I might go in for build tips. I think making juice will come with time. I just don't wanna invest in getting like twenty different flavors cuz all the good mixes have 2 or usually at least 3 flavors in it. I'm just glad I'm not smoking and I'm barely using snus. Which I should probably get off of but won't right now

I got a can of snus today. Had that urge, its been a long time. I dont feel bad about it lol.

 

[Scotticus93]

I have a question. I looked it up and if you ran the lowest reistance range of .05 at 50j or as we say watts. It would be 31 amps. I think the mods limit is 30. Even if I wanted to run it to that I need a 30 amp batt right? Or does tc somehow bend the rules of ohms law or use pulsing instead of continuous current. I'm thinking about getting an x cube 2 and it's got a 20 amp limit. Screw that

 

[Scotticus93]

Because the only way to control power output on a mech mod is by changing the resistance of the coil. The lower the resistance, the more power will flow from the battery, which is why people started "sub-ohming" in the first place, and why lower resistance thick wire is so popular with mech mod users, especially the cloud chasing types. A 0.3 ohm coil on a fresh (4.2v) single 18650 mech will be putting out around 40-50 watts. A 0.5 ohm coil on the same setup will only be putting out around 30 watts, and a 1 ohm coil will be all the way down to 16 watts.

But with a regulated device, you can just say "I want XX watts" or "XX volts" and it'll deliver that (for the most part, they have high and low voltage limits that vary depending on the mod), doesn't matter what the resistance is, or if the battery is fresh or not. It regulates the power. Get it?

24 has more surface area tho? Does it really matter if j use it? I guess ramp up time does suck. I'm following. So I should I just use 28g kanthal? All I know is I wanna find my nickel already

 

[crxess]

24 has more surface area tho? Does it really matter if j use it? I guess ramp up time does suck. I'm following. So I should I just use 28g kanthal? All I know is I wanna find my nickel already

26ga/28ga both work well on the D2

 

[Croak]

I have a question. I looked it up and if you ran the lowest reistance range of .05 at 50j or as we say watts. It would be 31 amps. I think the mods limit is 30. Even if I wanted to run it to that I need a 30 amp batt right? Or does tc somehow bend the rules of ohms law or use pulsing instead of continuous current. I'm thinking about getting an x cube 2 and it's got a 20 amp limit. Screw that

First off, NO regulated mod really fires long enough to be considered continuous in my book. Once again that paranoia is a hold-over from mech mod usage, where it was warranted because you CAN just jam down the switch on a mech and fire until the battery was depleted or failed.

Regulated devices (at least the good ones) have a firing time cutoff and they have current protection. So the quality 20a continuous, 30a pulse batteries are more than good enough. Keep in mind when the battery makers refer to "pulse", they're talking times of 30-90 seconds (high drain 18650 batteries are actually intended for power tool use, not vaping). That's far longer than the typical 5 second or less hit most vapers take, or the 8-20 second firing cutoff the regulated mods themselves have.

Now, with the TC build you cited, it would only have that amp draw for a VERY brief time...remember, resistance climbs fairly fast on coils that are materially suited for TC, so that 0.05 resistance will quickly climb to 0.1, 0.15, and so on, reducing amp load from 31 to under 20 in almost no time, and that's not taking into account the power modulation that is also happening as you reach your target temp.

As for the X Cube II, Smok recommends you use at least 20a continuous, but it does NOT have a 20a limit.

 

[Scotticus93]

First off, NO regulated mod really fires long enough to be considered continuous in my book. Once again that paranoia is a hold-over from mech mod usage, where it was warranted because you CAN just jam down the switch on a mech and fire until the battery was depleted or failed.

Regulated devices (at least the good ones) have a firing time cutoff and they have current protection. So the quality 20a continuous, 30a pulse batteries are more than good enough. Keep in mind when the battery makers refer to "pulse", they're talking times of 30-90 seconds (high drain 18650 batteries are actually intended for power tool use, not vaping). That's far longer than the typical 5 second or less hit most vapers take, or the 8-20 second firing cutoff the regulated mods themselves have.

Now, with the TC build you cited, it would only have that amp draw for a VERY brief time...remember, resistance climbs fairly fast on coils that are materially suited for TC, so that 0.05 resistance will quickly climb to 0.1, 0.15, and so on, reducing amp load from 31 to under 20 in almost no time, and that's not taking into account the power modulation that is also happening as you reach your target temp.

As for the X Cube II, Smok recommends you use at least 20a continuous, but it does NOT have a 20a limit.

Steam engine says it has that limit. It also has a 7v limit. But I think I want something with like 8. A guy that worked at my local vape shop had mech mod in series running at about 8 volts. I know the DNA 200 can fun that sounds amazing. So can ipv 3. But I want something different than p4u. More distinct. Love the light on the x cube 2. Pretty cool

 

[Croak]

Steam Engine is NOT a reliable source for mod specs. You can trust the ohms math there (and the juice calc) but the "Mod Range" specs are just user-entered and can often be wrong. Always check out the manufacturer spec sheets

Also, the X Cube II has an 8v limit, not 7v. That said, that guys mech mod in series? That's only 7.4 volts with dual 18650s, and it drops FAST as battery charge goes down, so most of the time he's probably lucky to be putting out over 6v after a few pulls.

 

[Scotticus93]

Steam Engine is NOT a reliable source for mod specs. You can trust the ohms math there (and the juice calc) but the "Mod Range" specs are just user-entered and can often be wrong. Always check out the manufacturer spec sheets

Also, the X Cube II has an 8v limit, not 7v. That said, that guys mech mod in series? That's only 7.4 volts with dual 18650s, and it drops FAST as battery charge goes down, so most of the time he's probably lucky to be putting out over 6v after a few pulls.

He was blowing fat clouds and no in series don't you double the voltage so it starts off at 8.4? And would y'all recommend the x cube 2 or no? I shouldn't buy one but I know it's probably gonna happen sooner or later. Sorry if this is derailing. You can always pm me croak. I have a lot to learn from you

 

[Croak]

Yes, you double the voltage, but batteries will "sag", so a freshly charged 4.2v 18650 is really only able to output about 3.7v (its nominal voltage). Double that is 7.4v.

No doubt you can put out "fat clouds" with a series mech mod and a low resistance build, he's probably pushing north of 200 watts when the battery is fresh on a build lower than 0.3 ohms. And he's also pulling more than 30 amps. But ask him how the flavor is, and how wide open he has to have the airflow to keep from burning his mouth at that power level and how deep he has to inhale to support it.

He's basically showing off, and not many people actually enjoy that sort of vape, they just enjoy watching the pretty pretty clouds.

You have to ask yourself what you're looking for out of vaping, and the FIRST thing you should ask is "am I doing this to impress people and fit in with the cool kids?" Because if you are, you're probably going at it for the wrong reasons. It's that sort of crap that got most of us smoking in the first place, and we all know how that turns out.

There's nothing wrong with clouds if that's what you like, but don't feel like you NEED to do it either. There's a whole lot more to the experience than that, just be sure you find the aspect or aspects that actually keep you off dipping and smoking, for your own reasons.

Getting back to the X Cube II, it's a decent device for the price (I have one on the way), and gives you a lot of options, it'll support any type of vaping you choose, from tootle puffing to mega cloud chasing and anything in between. It has some issues, and it's huge, but for the most part, it's hard to go wrong with it for around $60.

 

[BigEgo]

I have a question. I looked it up and if you ran the lowest reistance range of .05 at 50j or as we say watts. It would be 31 amps. I think the mods limit is 30. Even if I wanted to run it to that I need a 30 amp batt right? Or does tc somehow bend the rules of ohms law or use pulsing instead of continuous current. I'm thinking about getting an x cube 2 and it's got a 20 amp limit. Screw that

No. You will not need 30 amps to run this mod at 50 watts. This is a regulated mod, thus the resistance of the coil means absolutely nothing. All you need to know is the wattage you have it set to and the voltage of your battery charge. At most you will need 15 amps for 50J on a low battery.

 

[Riblet]

I'm liking the silver....

 

[eddiea]

I'm liking the silver....

Silver was my first choice but wasn't available when the D2 was first released. I'm seriously considering buying the silver one too but the price at VividSmoke is a bit higher than what I paid for my black version and I'm not sure who else has it available (and in stock) for less right now.

 

[rhelton]

That silver is nice. Ive been thinking of getting a second one its a no brainer now. Fasttech has some nice colored sleeves in the new arrivals section. They look just like the stock ones but have cool multicolor splash options. The green and black looks pretty sick.

Someone gave me a Ego One Mega and a nickel coil. Its really disappointing, if anyone is looking at one pass it by.

 

[billybc96]

Is this silver IPV D2 painted silver, or is it a chrome finish, or what? If painted, well...we already have an idea how well that's likely to hold up. The black one is fine with me with the black silicone sleeve on it. This other finish might be an interesting option, if it is actually a good finish. Otherwise, why bother?

 

[KenD]

No. You will not need 30 amps to run this mod at 50 watts. This is a regulated mod, thus the resistance of the coil means absolutely nothing. All you need to know is the wattage you have it set to and the voltage of your battery charge. At most you will need 15 amps for 50J on a low battery.

I'm thinking there needs to be a sticky on this, or an auto reply that is sent every time the question is asked/false claims made. I find myself needing to correct people on the issue so, so often, and some get really argumentative (there was even this one guy who tried to "take me to school", and couldn't admit defeat even when I showed him how and why resistance doesn't matter on regulated mods. Lol!)

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