IPV D2 announced.

[crxess]

Does locking in ohms at room temp mean approx. 65-68 degrees Fahrenheit? Curious about those that might be outside working in 35-45 degree weather, and do a atty change in the cold. Or is it best to lock resistance, indoors always?

Always Lock at a Normal room temp to establish Highest resistance point.
Not sure if it will fire or report an error when extremely lower in temp. Probably best to keep on Body to balance mods low temperature as best possible, although the coil resistance should not drop by much due to Climate changes.

PEAK Resistance control is the overall goal.

 

[crxess]

Anyone noticing their D2's screen shifting to different brightness modes? Mine is shifting to a less bright mode with no flickering or other glitches that suggest a board problem. I found the screen overly bright so I'm not concerned about that... am I just unaware of the proper functioning and modes of the screen (the menu and operation is rather different than what I'm used to.) Thanks for any observations from yall....

Screen Backlite modes:
Wake up Quick press - Bright / then out
Awake quick press - Bright then Dim then time out to dark
Draw - Bright
Draw release - drops to dim - then times out to dark
Time out about 1 minute

 

[gmoney$]

Screen Backlite modes:
Wake up Quick press - Bright / then out
Awake quick press - Bright then Dim then time out to dark
Draw - Bright
Draw release - drops to dim - then times out to dark
Time out about 1 minute

Thanks -- I'm gonna assume that those different modes account for what I'm seeing.

 

[MotoMudder]

So, I've been playing with TC for a couple days, got some 28g nickel wire, and wrapped it 12 times. Steam engine told me it should've came out around .12ohms. It read .21ohms. I went with it, wicked it, locked it in and vaped it for a day or two and set it down. Got a few "No Liquid" messages that I should'nt have gotten during that time too.
Today I decided to tossed it back on, and went to lock it in, it read .25ohms. curiousity got going, and I lowered the temp down all the way. 212f. 27 joules. It still vapes, decently too. Question is 212f hot enough to vape? Is this thing broke?

 

[TruSound]

Anyone noticing their D2's screen shifting to different brightness modes? Mine is shifting to a less bright mode with no flickering or other glitches that suggest a board problem. I found the screen overly bright so I'm not concerned about that... am I just unaware of the proper functioning and modes of the screen (the menu and operation is rather different than what I'm used to.) Thanks for any observations from yall....

The display brightens when fired and dims when off the button and idle then goes out after a minute.

Damn you guys are quick...

 

[ROBB23]

my D2 has been getting a Check Battery message periodically. tried different batteries so im sure that's not the problem. using Samsung 25r's. it only happens once in a while and goes away. anyone else have similar issues?

 

[crxess]

my D2 has been getting a Check Battery message periodically. tried different batteries so im sure that's not the problem. using Samsung 25r's. it only happens once in a while and goes away. anyone else have similar issues?

Periodic battery Drop/sag. May be when battery is drained some and cannot supply enough amperage to the device. Not generally a problem.

_____________________________________________________

Built my TI wire on the New KS RTA Tank - Good and Bad results.
Been busy and not listening to myself, I just hurried up and got it done.
26ga. Titanium
2.5mm Bit
7/8 coil spread wrap build
Rayon wick, Tails thinned and set to channels
Tank ALF adjusted to 3/4 turns open

Base resistance set to .33ohms
TC set, after some fiddling, to TI / 550F/35J
E-liquid:
DIY 50/50 3mg Milk Chocolate Toffee Cappuccino

Initial results - subjective
Mod fires without issue giving a decent warm vape and respectable Vapor production. Took some fiddling to get comparable to my usual Regulated IPV-mini2 Vape at 30w.

Ti Wire:
26Ga. was easy to work with except attaching to the unimpressive post. Fiinal alignment was good and wicking simple.
Set wire to aprx. 2mm above air tube.

Tank:
Looks Great!
Should have stuck to original plans and UC cleaned first. Definitely some machine oil present(YUCK) but fading.
Will break down and clean when the partial fill is depleted - waste not.
Fairly simple to build on the raised post deck and can be wicked in a few different ways. I went tails for the first build dropping a thinned tail into each channel.
Liquid Feed is smooth and easy to adjust for more/less liquid.
To little and you will DRY Hit message quick.
To much and you will be wondering why the Vape is dead cold with little vapor.

Overall Vape Experience:
Overlooking my Cleaning mistake,
Vape is good with respectable Vapor, warm vape and decent Flavor production.
TC regulates well and will display DRY HIT fast if you are not pulling air flow. Finding the right Joules/Temp seems to be more of a Challenge on this build.

I would believe over 1/2 the people who have tried TC and failed to like it simply never took time to learn how to set the device properly.

Will continue to learn and pass my experiences along

 

[gmoney$]

my D2 has been getting a Check Battery message periodically. tried different batteries so im sure that's not the problem. using Samsung 25r's. it only happens once in a while and goes away. anyone else have similar issues?

I had the D2's battery meter show the indicator level dropping as I fired, which it would not do with any other battery. I tossed the battery in the basket in the closet that collects batteries

 

[crxess]

Error, Error, Does Not compute!!!!!
Delete, Delete,Delete!!!!!

Update:
Do NOT, please please, Do Not forget to dial back the Temp if you decide to try a TI-Build in Ni200 Mode!!!!!
OMG I about Flamed out! Set to NI and didn't even think about it sitting at 550F
Pulled a good draw and backed away from the Drip tip as the Heat started to burn my Lungs
Lungs are okay
Throat is still sore/scratchy
Eyes stopped watering.

Wow that is one experience I do not wish to revisit!!

Wick survived, but not sure how. Poor thing will still probably need changed soon.
Ti in Ni-mode @ 30J/380F Put me into an unstoppable sneezing attack. Opened the liquid flow a bit more and got tons of Vapor as things settled down a bit.
Settled in around 25J/330F..................for now.

Tank is definitely going into the Ultrasonic Cleaner after this

 

[jmarkus]

hey crx, on your next build try a contact 3mm ti coil above the airhole, and wick it putting wick inside and none in channel. fluffed and full making a slight u shape as you tuck it inside. ive had amazing luck doing that. i pulse the coil a 7 watts til blueish squeezing the coil together.

 

[Croak]

I had the D2's battery meter show the indicator level dropping as I fired, which it would not do with any other battery. I tossed the battery in the basket in the closet that collects batteries

Amigo, don't toss that battery just yet. The meter is showing active sag when the D2 is being fired, nothing to be alarmed in and of itself. ALL your batteries should have a dipping battery meter when firing, some more than others due to quality of battery, wear, etc.

Really think Pioneer4You/Yihi screwed the pooch on the display on this thing, the active resistance causes no end of controversy, same with the battery sag.

This is an inexpensive device that's going to sell (has already sold!) by the boatload to first-time TC (and just plain first-time) vapers, they should have just kept crap simple. Ideally, when you fire, it shows what temp it thinks it is, not the resistance climb, and the battery meter only moves in slow increments, doesn't show sag when firing.

 

[crxess]

hey crx, on your next build try a contact 3mm ti coil above the airhole, and wick it putting wick inside and none in channel. fluffed and full making a slight u shape as you tuck it inside. ive had amazing luck doing that. i pulse the coil a 7 watts til blueish squeezing the coil together.

Yea, this was just a First quick attempt to get the tank on the the D2.
Had I been less experienced I would have called it junk and trashed the tank. In fact I know, build may take some getting used to........ and the Rubbery off taste is a result of not cleaning before building. A mistake I know better than to make.
I've seen the Curl Back wick setup and agree, it is simple and looks like it may hold more liquid better than the channel method which requires thinning.
Almost every build I have is contact coil, but figured with all the controversy I'd go simple spread first.

About 1/2ml left and this puppy is coming apart.

** Note: I do love the way the tank looks on the D2 they could have almost been planned for each other.**

 

[jmarkus]

i agree about the black tank look. just got my black one in and man, so glad you twisted my arm .

 

[mecca7979]

Read that with the ipv d2 it uses pwm for tc whereas the dna40 uses step down dc-dc. Does this effect the tc in any significant way? Or will I be happy with the ipv d2's capabilities? I ask because I have yet to use the temp control.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Read that with the ipv d2 it uses pwm for tc whereas the dna40 uses step down dc-dc. Does this effect the tc in any significant way? Or will I be happy with the ipv d2's capabilities? I ask because I have yet to use the temp control.

You'll be happy. Yihi makes a pretty accurate board when it comes to TC. As long as the mod does temperature control properly it's good in my book. Just know the D2 does not have step down in wattage mode. But there is a workaround for that.

 

[jmarkus]

 

[Scotticus93]

Amigo, don't toss that battery just yet. The meter is showing active sag when the D2 is being fired, nothing to be alarmed in and of itself. ALL your batteries should have a dipping battery meter when firing, some more than others due to quality of battery, wear, etc.

Really think Pioneer4You/Yihi screwed the pooch on the display on this thing, the active resistance causes no end of controversy, same with the battery sag.

This is an inexpensive device that's going to sell (has already sold!) by the boatload to first-time TC (and just plain first-time) vapers, they should have just kept crap simple. Ideally, when you fire, it shows what temp it thinks it is, not the resistance climb, and the battery meter only moves in slow increments, doesn't show sag when firing.

I like the active resistance. It reminds you that you need to lock the resistance first or you get dry hits in tc like me lol

 

[Scotticus93]

So, I've been playing with TC for a couple days, got some 28g nickel wire, and wrapped it 12 times. Steam engine told me it should've came out around .12ohms. It read .21ohms. I went with it, wicked it, locked it in and vaped it for a day or two and set it down. Got a few "No Liquid" messages that I should'nt have gotten during that time too.
Today I decided to tossed it back on, and went to lock it in, it read .25ohms. curiousity got going, and I lowered the temp down all the way. 212f. 27 joules. It still vapes, decently too. Question is 212f hot enough to vape? Is this thing broke?

People usually vape 300 plus from what I've heard? So that's strange. Could be something wrong with your mod. Are you sure your connection screws are all the way down and the atty screwed down flush? Double check that. It can make or break how a tc build runs

 

[crxess]

i agree about the black tank look. just got my black one in and man, so glad you twisted my arm .

Darn tank scratched the top of my D2 Just outside 22mm area

Read that with the ipv d2 it uses pwm for tc whereas the dna40 uses step down dc-dc. Does this effect the tc in any significant way? Or will I be happy with the ipv d2's capabilities? I ask because I have yet to use the temp control.

Wish people would check information.
(2) types of Buck
Linear - 0ld inefficient way
PWM - Modern efficient modulation

DC-DC is Filtered PWM Buck There is NO MAGIC
Units using Variable Frequence modulation puts out the flattest signals - Still PWM

 

[rhelton]

Periodic battery Drop/sag. May be when battery is drained some and cannot supply enough amperage to the device. Not generally a problem.

_____________________________________________________

Built my TI wire on the New KS RTA Tank - Good and Bad results.
Been busy and not listening to myself, I just hurried up and got it done.
26ga. Titanium
2.5mm Bit
7/8 coil spread wrap build
Rayon wick, Tails thinned and set to channels
Tank ALF adjusted to 3/4 turns open

Base resistance set to .33ohms
TC set, after some fiddling, to TI / 550F/35J
E-liquid:
DIY 50/50 3mg Milk Chocolate Toffee Cappuccino

Initial results - subjective
Mod fires without issue giving a decent warm vape and respectable Vapor production. Took some fiddling to get comparable to my usual Regulated IPV-mini2 Vape at 30w.

Ti Wire:
26Ga. was easy to work with except attaching to the unimpressive post. Fiinal alignment was good and wicking simple.
Set wire to aprx. 2mm above air tube.

Tank:
Looks Great!
Should have stuck to original plans and UC cleaned first. Definitely some machine oil present(YUCK) but fading.
Will break down and clean when the partial fill is depleted - waste not.
Fairly simple to build on the raised post deck and can be wicked in a few different ways. I went tails for the first build dropping a thinned tail into each channel.
Liquid Feed is smooth and easy to adjust for more/less liquid.
To little and you will DRY Hit message quick.
To much and you will be wondering why the Vape is dead cold with little vapor.

Overall Vape Experience:
Overlooking my Cleaning mistake,
Vape is good with respectable Vapor, warm vape and decent Flavor production.
TC regulates well and will display DRY HIT fast if you are not pulling air flow. Finding the right Joules/Temp seems to be more of a Challenge on this build.

I would believe over 1/2 the people who have tried TC and failed to like it simply never took time to learn how to set the device properly.

Will continue to learn and pass my experiences along

I agree it is a new learning curve not unlike when I started rebuilding. Ive noticed that if im fiddling with settings things can get away from you and you can loose control of the situation. Thats happened to me twice, I think I just got things way to hot. The result was a dry hit, not a bad one but enough to where frustration set in and I had to put it away for awhile. Gotta stop thinking kanthal somehow.