IPV D2 announced.
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That's a good explanation and what I was looking for, so thanks.
I'm still struggling to learn the relationship between temp and joules, and I've done a lot of online searching and reading, and there is very little clear information. The simplest statements are to treat joules like watts, though that does not seem to be the real answer. The other simple statements that joules is like a watt for one second, is a quick description I've come across, but in practical use many simply state the joules setting is for ramp up, or how quick you get to your set temperature. If that's the case why wouldn't I want to always run this mod at the highest joules of 50, to get to my desired temp?
My friends iStick 40 TC, only allows for temperature adjustment, NO joules setting at all, something PBusardo thought was a good thing. Others reviewers state that having joules adjustability is a feature found on better chip boards, so I want to get the most out of the available settings. I have been experimenting by keeping my temperature the same and going from the minimum 10 joules to the max of 50, don't see a huge difference in my vape with max VG juice.
So again, under what circumstances would a user NOT want to get to their desired temperature setting faster, and use anything other then the highest joules setting? If joules were just like watts in power mode, I'd see and feel a huge difference between 10 & 50. Thanks!
You dont have a dna there bud. No liquid means your out of liquid, you wont get that msg until you run out of liquid because you only need to know when your out of liquid. There is no debate here I dont think, your not using a dna, its a Yihi board. It lets you know when your out of liquid, and thats really all you need to know.
Using a 2.5mm driver. It's almost dead on.
I've been debating changing out my dripper for nickel, but it works really good right now, so that'll happen later.
So far it seems to be working correctly.
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My original post was not about the "no liquid" message, I tested that first day. Guess I was not clear, no worries Croak got it covered. Take a stab at my last joules post/questions, hopefully it was written more clearly. TKS
Much depends on the application, and the fact that the electronics can only react to what's already happened, not what's going to happen. Set power to max on a coil that doesn't need that much power, and it's going to be constantly hitting the limit or going over a bit, backing off, hitting the limit, backing off, kind of like flooring the gas in a manual car and not shifting, and letting the rev limiter kick in.
The trick with TC (IMO) is finding how little (not how much!) power a particular build needs to give you the vape you like at the temp you like.
Rarely is just flooring it the best idea.
Getting the power matched with the temps you want and the airflow/wicking you have results in better battery life, a (subjectively) smoother vape, and less chance of a dry hit sneaking in before the electronics can react.
And that's why folks with more TC experience (in general) don't favor the "can't set the watts" method like the iStick uses, because we have less control over the vape.
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I think we have all been assuming the paint is bad by relating it through Feel, to the ipv-mini2.
Actually I have been using and knocking mine around since I received it. Almost 18hrs a day. So far the only mark came from a Not flush bottom screw on the KS Tank.
Definitely caused by Tank machining defect, not poor paint.
I ask the poster, forgot who, that Scratch theirs up so soon.
Were you by chance pocket carrying with other objects in there?
I very lightly scuffed mine on top using my 454 dripper. The barrel comes into contact with the mod and the edges are not smooth. It was my fault I could have prevented it.
Actually you can see when the coil reaches the maximum temperature in D2. It is a little bit difficult and tricky but you can see it. While you press the button and vape, look at the battery meter. You will see that while the button is pressed, the battery ramps down a little bit and stays there. When it reaches the maximum temperature, you will see that that the battery meter ramps up and down. For example i have set mine to 150 degrees Celsius and 15 joules. I press the button and during the first 3 or 4 seconds the battery meter is ramped down only once and stays there and after that it ramps up and down. When the ramping up and down starts it means that the temp limit has been reached and the board is cutting the power.
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Thanks for the quick answers and replies I understand now, I did do some research but could only find dc-dc vs. pwm threads that were not talking about temp control and it seemed the main consensus was that dc-dc was more accurate for a good vape experience. But thanks for clearing up the misunderstanding I had.
Also my ipv d2 got scratched in less than 2hrs after I put on an atomizer that had something underneath the bottom, totally my fault since I know how fragile the paint is. Now I make sure every atomizer is clear of any type of debris before I put it on. I had a bad experience with my ipv mini 2 and the paint flaking even though I was careful.
Also my ipv d2 got scratched in less than 2hrs after I put on an atomizer that had something underneath the bottom, totally my fault since I know how fragile the paint is. Now I make sure every atomizer is clear of any type of debris before I put it on. I had a bad experience with my ipv mini 2 and the paint flaking even though I was careful.
Tempered 28 ga Ni my friends, 10-12 spaced wraps around a 2.5 -3.0 seems to work for me pretty well for a single coil that reads about .11. I like the tempered Ni better than messing with the regular NI. seems to work better for me. I get pretty accurate readings between my D2 and a cheap tester. May just be you have bad contacts, or you did not let it sit for a bit. I noticed even just finishing wrapping a coil that the resisitance is still a litttle higher that letting it sit to room temp.
This device seems to vape as well as my Mini M. Mind you, I don't use memory locations and keep the M on Eco mode. For my vaping, is is accurate and dependable. I have had zero problems so far. I was quite surprised that this runs as well as it does. P4Y has gone up in my personal ticker.
I used two different STM with Ti. One reads on both devices at .35 and the other reads on both at .58 either lousy build skill or differences in the airflow bases. I'll hazard a guess that it is lousy build skill. Both devices vape the same to my taste/feel and produce the same amount of vapor.
I love TC! No dry hits and my Ti builds last many times longer than my kanthal builds.
I shall now donate my old Sigelei 20W lightsaber, 2 ProTank II, extra coils for them, and 2 8 month old batteries to my sister-in-law who is still using a VV twist of some sort. I've had that as backup since getting my first box mod. I'll miss it somewhat, it was the device that let me know vaping would replace smoking for me 2 years ago.
I used two different STM with Ti. One reads on both devices at .35 and the other reads on both at .58 either lousy build skill or differences in the airflow bases. I'll hazard a guess that it is lousy build skill. Both devices vape the same to my taste/feel and produce the same amount of vapor.
I love TC! No dry hits and my Ti builds last many times longer than my kanthal builds.
I shall now donate my old Sigelei 20W lightsaber, 2 ProTank II, extra coils for them, and 2 8 month old batteries to my sister-in-law who is still using a VV twist of some sort. I've had that as backup since getting my first box mod. I'll miss it somewhat, it was the device that let me know vaping would replace smoking for me 2 years ago.
Im flyin thru batteries using TC I have a couple efest 2100's I tried in it today I got about an hour each 
They didnt vent though hahaha. Samsung seems to be the best of all I have even over some VTC4's. Are you guy's going thru batteries quick? I noticed in the internal pics that were posted a day or two ago that the charger is onboard which is nice so yihi installed it, some piece of mind there. The charger works really well and charges pretty quick.
They didnt vent though hahaha. Samsung seems to be the best of all I have even over some VTC4's. Are you guy's going thru batteries quick? I noticed in the internal pics that were posted a day or two ago that the charger is onboard which is nice so yihi installed it, some piece of mind there. The charger works really well and charges pretty quick.
Mine left a scratch from the tank. I screwed it down then took it back off and there it was
Joules is a measurement of energy over time in relation to electricity. It is actually a measurement of any/all energy.
The 1J=1W for one second is correct, however:
1J = 1/2W for 2 seconds
1J = 1/4w for 4 seconds
For our purposes, China has screwed up and simply uses 1J=1W so 15J is 15W. Incorrect, but there you go.
The 1J=1W for one second is correct, however:
1J = 1/2W for 2 seconds
1J = 1/4w for 4 seconds
For our purposes, China has screwed up and simply uses 1J=1W so 15J is 15W. Incorrect, but there you go.
I'm using the red IMREN 38A/2600 mAh batts in my D2...I don't do TC builds but vaping the .25 coil in the Maganus at 50w I get about 7-8 hrs on a single charge..mind you I don't chain vape it, but I am hitting it off and on all day long...
Usually refilling the 4.8 ml tank at least once..
I also use the supplied charging cord connected to a 5v wall charger ..batt fully charges in the mod under 2 hrs..
Its a great little mod, and I'm thinking about ordering another one.[emoji41]
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I've noticed that also. It's more noticeable when your battery is a little less than full, like 3/4. I've noticed when in temp mode, as soon as you fire it the battery sags a lot for a split second then starts to fluctuate up and down a tiny bit during your vape. I'm guessing that first big sag could be some sort of preheat? Then the little sags are it maintaining set temp. Somebody needs to put this on a scope. Hope a YouTube reviewer does an in depth.
Just ordered that RDA this morning to top the d2. Thanks for the pick!
I think it's called a RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer)...wonder if it vapes as good as it looks...if so maybe I'll order one too..
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It's a nice Mtl to light lung Tank. Simple single coil build. AFC operates a 2.5mm opening. Liquid control is a bit tricky if you never had one before.
I have several Ithika Tanks with Liquid control and still had the KS mis-dialed most of the day. Did not notice excess liquid was pooling in the coil section since it uses a raised air tube.
A slightly more than normal tip got me a fresh liquid covering on the tongue. Closed the adjuster one turn and doubled the Vapor while boosting flavor.
Some times I think I'm getting old and forgetful
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