It's harder to maintain them when you can't dry burn the stuff off like kanthal. I'll try that scraping method tho. And I'm assuming spider silk is the cleanest and safest titanium? If sounds pretty good
IPV D2 announced.
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I mean this is no offense at all. But are you the same guy before who was talking about running mini nautilus. I hate to say it man. But I still think it's high time you upgraded your tank. You had also said before you don't have time tk rebuild right or was that someone else? I'm thinkng of something to rebuild. Btw rebuilding only takes like 5 or 10 mins max when you get it down.
@billybc96 - throw out your Nautilus and get a Udell Crown tank. Just as easy to fill and it will give you a much better vaping experience using either their SS or Ni coils.
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Do keep in mind that STOCK Nautilus coils are notorious for being crap in terms of quality, and that you're trying to retrofit a new coil technology into an aged coil head design, and a tiny one at that. You've got very limited wicking, very restricted airflow, and thin fragile wire inside making a tenuous friction connection. Any one of those factors is bad for TC setups, and you've got all three.
As I said before, lipstick on a pig.
Buy an Atlantis or Triton or one of the Atlantis-compatible tanks and use one of the several brands of nickel coils for that platform. Use your Nautilus drip-tip (best part about the Nautilus) and dial the airflow on the new tank down, and it won't take but a tank or two before you begin to wonder why you thought a draw as tight as a Nautilus was a good thing. And I'm sure it won't be long before Aspire comes out with a TC version of the Triton 1.8 MTL coil, which has a draw like a Nautilus, if you truly can't adapt to a bit more airflow.
As I said before, lipstick on a pig.
Buy an Atlantis or Triton or one of the Atlantis-compatible tanks and use one of the several brands of nickel coils for that platform. Use your Nautilus drip-tip (best part about the Nautilus) and dial the airflow on the new tank down, and it won't take but a tank or two before you begin to wonder why you thought a draw as tight as a Nautilus was a good thing. And I'm sure it won't be long before Aspire comes out with a TC version of the Triton 1.8 MTL coil, which has a draw like a Nautilus, if you truly can't adapt to a bit more airflow.
The Nautilus sized BVC heads may be too small for nickel coils to reliably run in. Though I don't see why that should have to be the case, so far it has been. I can't argue with my results, which have been piss poor so far.
The Crown or Aspire Triton were my alternate choice tanks before I got the OBS T-VCT at a sale price. I'm not sure though that buying more sub ohm tanks and nickel coil heads for each one is necessarily going to get me better results for MTL vaping with TC. I don't think we'll ever see a 1.8 ohm nickel MTL coil for the Aspire Triton, though one of the sub ohm Triton nickel coils might work. If Aspire Nautilus BVC head build quality is supposedly so hit and miss, I'm not sure why their Triton coil heads would necessarily be any better.
I'd rather know for sure before I buy another pricey tank and coils again. I'll keep an eye on reviews of the Crown and Triton and see what people say about using these for MTL with nickel. Maybe some other posters on this thread can chime in on that.
Rebuilding takes me awhile to do typically, as I'm .... about that sort of thing. Right now I'm holding a 3-month old and trying to manage a 2-year old, so I've only got one hand free half the time. Then when I'm not babysitting the kids, or cleaning up after them, or sleeping, I'm on the road for hours at a time for work. My vaping equipment needs to be pretty quick and easy to work with. Rebuilding just isn't practical right now, though I look forward to maybe trying it again later - after the kids are past small parts "choking hazard" age.
Sorry to have to say this, but the likely Culprit is the Nautilus. You have proven repeatedly the D2 works and The Nautilus Fails.
Coils are simple pieces if looped wire conducting heat.
Problems occur when poor contact comes into play. It wreaks havoc on stability and current flow.
It sounds like either your Base is coated or is defective and not in tolerance to keep the Positive pin in good contact.
You may be able to purchase a replacement Base only if needed.
This may show what I suspect has happened:
WTF Aspire Nautilus | The Vapers Shed
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The main reason a "MTL" Triton/Atlantis Ni200/Ti coil would work better than a Nautilus MTL coil is size. It's able to accommodate thicker, more durable wire with more optimal spacing, it has a LOT more (like 500% more) wicking, and lets not forget the better (more conductive/less resistive) base design on modern tanks. The Nautilus is going on two years old now, and dates from a time when 12 watts was a lot of power. Back then nobody worried too much about a little resistance shift on a 1.8 or 1.6 ohm Kanthal/Nickel coil. It's a crap atomizer, gaining distinction and acclaim only because it was LESS crap than most of the clearomizer market back then.
Something else to keep in mind, the bulk of the wire in a Nautilus stock coil is nickel, by the way, with a small section of Kanthal welded in the middle. That's mostly to prevent "hot legs", but when the entire coil is now the same resistance along its length, that prevention fails. If you want it to work well, you have to make changes to the coil design, and the Nautilus nickel coils don't, they just slap nickel in the whole thing, and the results are predictable.
As for rebuilding, you can easily buy pre-wound coils in any size you want, from any number of places, or simply let a local vape shop do it for you for a modest fee. Then all you'd need to do is re-wick now and then, and you can do that pretty quickly (though probably not one-handed). Kids sleep. There's time in your day, trust me. For that matter, you can buy a bunch of decent Erlkonigen clones for $5 each, and treat them like great big replacement coils until you can get around to rebuilding or re-wicking them.
Something else to keep in mind, the bulk of the wire in a Nautilus stock coil is nickel, by the way, with a small section of Kanthal welded in the middle. That's mostly to prevent "hot legs", but when the entire coil is now the same resistance along its length, that prevention fails. If you want it to work well, you have to make changes to the coil design, and the Nautilus nickel coils don't, they just slap nickel in the whole thing, and the results are predictable.
As for rebuilding, you can easily buy pre-wound coils in any size you want, from any number of places, or simply let a local vape shop do it for you for a modest fee. Then all you'd need to do is re-wick now and then, and you can do that pretty quickly (though probably not one-handed). Kids sleep. There's time in your day, trust me. For that matter, you can buy a bunch of decent Erlkonigen clones for $5 each, and treat them like great big replacement coils until you can get around to rebuilding or re-wicking them.
My D2 is being delivered today. I Wish I was smart enough to have ordered the nickel coils for my sub tank. I have the vertical ones just not nickel was looking forward to using the TC. No stores locally have them. 
Sounds good to me. I just want you to be able to have reliable nickel coils. I now they are not cheap lol. And you would need like 100 wraps to make a 1 ohm nickel coil. Maybe go with the STM. J have heard good things about their nickel coils and it comes with an rba section if you ever do find time to rebuild. And my nautilus coils always flooded so I would say their build quality is kinda shotty.
Okay. I was wondering if maybe the connection inside the Nautilus tank at the base might be an issue. I don't think replacing the base would be a very sure way of correcting that issue. So I'll have to try a different, more "modern" tank. The Beyond Vape Silo Tank would probably not be much of an improvement - as the base connections design is essentially the same as that of the Nautilus.
It sounds like the Nautilus coils are a bust for reliably using nickel. Too bad. I wish no one made them then. That would have saved everyone (well, me at least) a lot of trouble. Makes me rather disappointed in Vapor Shark for making them Available in the first place.
So, some people are saying Triton and some are saying Crown for a reliable MTL vape tank with premade nickel coil heads. Any other suggestions or votes for one or the other of the above tanks? The Starre V2 (or whatever it is called) might be a contender as well. Honestly I'm not sure any of these tanks will be good for MTL with nickel, though the Triton seems like it can do it well with 1.8 ohm kanthal, so why not with nickel on an IPV D2?
It sounds like the Nautilus coils are a bust for reliably using nickel. Too bad. I wish no one made them then. That would have saved everyone (well, me at least) a lot of trouble. Makes me rather disappointed in Vapor Shark for making them Available in the first place.
So, some people are saying Triton and some are saying Crown for a reliable MTL vape tank with premade nickel coil heads. Any other suggestions or votes for one or the other of the above tanks? The Starre V2 (or whatever it is called) might be a contender as well. Honestly I'm not sure any of these tanks will be good for MTL with nickel, though the Triton seems like it can do it well with 1.8 ohm kanthal, so why not with nickel on an IPV D2?
Actually, some of the Nauti clones do not use the Spring loaded contact. they use a direct center pin(screw) that seems to eliminate the issue.
I do agree though, the Nautilus is a little long in the tooth and many newer tanks simply perform better.
Sub-ohm in TC terms does Not force Lung hits. This will be dictated by Tank design and personal choice.
Kayfun can run Ni or Ti and is definitely a MTL tank so many replaceable head tanks with AFC should be comparable. The fun is figuring out which tank.
I do agree though, the Nautilus is a little long in the tooth and many newer tanks simply perform better.
Sub-ohm in TC terms does Not force Lung hits. This will be dictated by Tank design and personal choice.
Kayfun can run Ni or Ti and is definitely a MTL tank so many replaceable head tanks with AFC should be comparable. The fun is figuring out which tank.
I have no idea who's the best when it comes to Ti wire. Everyone will swear up and down that xXxX supplier is the best and xXxX supplier is the worst. I can say spider silk has worked fine for me, came very clean and they give you a sheet of Ko Gendo inside the puck. They describe it as grade 1on the website. I forget how much I paid, it wasn't a crazy number tho. And like I said, a dark red is as far as I go when in WATT mode when cleaning a Ti coil. "Yellow and grey throw away"
I wouldn't blame VS or any other manufacturer. There was a DEMAND for Ni coils for the Nautilus (I know, I was one of them) and they delivered it. I was coming from these small tanks and had no real experience with NI or sub-ohm. I thought it would be a good "baby step" for me rather than trying to build my own Ni coils. As an earlier poster said, the biggest limitation here is the size of the coil itself. Too constricted to really deliver on the TC vaping experience. I used just one of my 5-pack and threw the rest away.
As for the Crown -- this is the BEST sub-ohm tank I have purchased and used to date (better than both the SMOK TCT and the Starre Pro which I have). I am not even using the Ni yet though. Just using their .25 coil (they have a .5 coil as well). I'll be trying the Ni coil that I got with the Crown in a few weeks once the .5 is used up. The Crown is not that expensive (I got mine from Huff & Puffers for $28.86 shipped with 3 coils included).
Looking at basic design, I really feel the Starre and Crown should be on par with each other. Coil variances may be an issue, but the tanks are very similar in overall design.
Unfortunately I can't test my theory and I prefer actual RTA tanks. Next selection may be a Goblin and Zehpyrus to do a bit of comparison.
Goblin looks like a MTL contender.
Zephyrus seems a good Lung hitter.
Hmmmmmm..................
Unfortunately I can't test my theory and I prefer actual RTA tanks. Next selection may be a Goblin and Zehpyrus to do a bit of comparison.
Goblin looks like a MTL contender.
Zephyrus seems a good Lung hitter.
Hmmmmmm..................
I don't have the Starre, but the Starre Pro. And its design is fundamentally flawed as it relates the top fill on/off mechanism. The Crown is about as simple as you can get to refill and it is better machining, IMO. Crown for me.
I'll say it once and I'll say it again. Go with STM. I know everyone and their brother owns one. But you can get decent mtl on it. I would know cuz I own one. I will be getting triton or crown next tho. Probably crown.
Have you seen the new Cthulhu? I am really interested in this one, having a single coil deck and a dual coil deck is pretty nice. I know they had some machining problems on the last one but they say its resolved now.
CTHULHU MOD, RTA, Hastur RDA
Got a burnt wick today. Was still using the first .15 ohm TC Kanger coil, in Kanger SubTank Mini, first tank was vaped till empty and got the "no liquid" warning on D2, just to see it worked. Now days later, and several tank refills, I got close to empty and thought I would vape it empty, till message appeared again. This time I tasted the BURNT. I stopped for a bit and then kept hitting it, letting it cool then trying again. A bit of a torture test, but that's how you learn. Didn't want to melt my o-rings, as the atty gets hot with no juice, and I was not inhaling, just trying to run it bone dry, or as it turned out this time, beyond. It took a fair amount of time till warning the first time so I kept going thinking any second now.
I took the base of the Subtank mini off so I could fire and look at the coil. It was getting red hot, like an overly done dry burn on kanthal. The cotton wicking on either side was fairly white in color. Took the coil apart, and indeed below the wraps, it was charred. Not sure if the cotton would have caught fire if I keep firing or not. For the early part of the coil life I was using settings around 22-25 joules, at 425-450 F. As performance seemingly dropped off, I started turning up both joules and temp, therefore I was at these settings at the time: 35 joules at 475 F.
I can't even speculate why I never got the "no juice" warning, and why I could continue to keep firing at those settings on a dry wick. I'll use a new coil, and see how it goes, but I don't have 100% faith in TC at this point. Just figured I'd toss this out there, not a bad idea to do a test now and then and run your tank empty, see if the protection kicks in, I'm one for two so far!
I took the base of the Subtank mini off so I could fire and look at the coil. It was getting red hot, like an overly done dry burn on kanthal. The cotton wicking on either side was fairly white in color. Took the coil apart, and indeed below the wraps, it was charred. Not sure if the cotton would have caught fire if I keep firing or not. For the early part of the coil life I was using settings around 22-25 joules, at 425-450 F. As performance seemingly dropped off, I started turning up both joules and temp, therefore I was at these settings at the time: 35 joules at 475 F.
I can't even speculate why I never got the "no juice" warning, and why I could continue to keep firing at those settings on a dry wick. I'll use a new coil, and see how it goes, but I don't have 100% faith in TC at this point. Just figured I'd toss this out there, not a bad idea to do a test now and then and run your tank empty, see if the protection kicks in, I'm one for two so far!
The number one rule with STM is to never vape it below the wicking holes. You kinda walked into this one I feel like. If the wicking can't keep up it will taste burnt I imagine.
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