So finally built my first build with ni200 on the velocity by tobeco. It is 15 wraps with 28ga pure nickel wire it came to about 0.119 ohms. Im vaping at 45joules and 480°F but it isnt a satisfying vape. Do you have any setting it could be better for this build?
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Well, on this one, do not take me too seriously.....
I'm not an expert on nickel building (and anything else, for that matter...) but my attempts at dual coils have been less than desirable so far. Even if I count the turns closely and wrap all them evenly spaced, they start quite well, but as fouling goes up between the turns, sooner than later one of the coils gets a little bit under the other in resistance, or airing, or whatsoever...... and start to burn things unless you set ridiculously down the temperature.
So, for the time being, I've given up in dual coils. Just single ones work fine to my vaping ways (I suppose I'm what you funnily call 'tottle puffer', I think).
I usually wrap AWG26 Ni-200, so dual coils end up being massive metalwork, and even if the D2 goes with them like a champion, when one of the coils goes downhill.....
Ok I got a D2 tonight and I have what might be a silly question. So when my screen is off and I hit the up button it does nothing. After I wake the screen either by touching the fire button or the down button the up button works perfectly. Is that the way this is designed or is it a flaw in my unit?
Here it is what Spaniard users have found about that, so far....
Just recently started up, the screen show the logos, and goes off. If you click the fire button, it shows the current setting, but just for a very brief time. You should enter the menus, of click three times to fix temporarily that, getting the current setting for about 3-4 seconds.
If you take a hit, the screen goes immediately to low brightness and consumption after you release the button. And that's the normal cycling....brighter during the hit (fire button pressed), dimmer in stand-by. But in about one minute it goes off....well mostly of the times. We've discovered that for any apparent reason sometimes it does not go off, and remains in dim mode for minutes and minutes... until next hit or menu action. It is not clear why, if it is a bug or there is something perfectly normal that triggers that behaviour, like battery voltage readings unstable after a hard hit at high power, or others.
Once the screen goes off, and very much like when the device is just started, with three clicks you get the brighter screen for about 3-4 seconds. My guess is that it is so you can read the screen in some difficult situations, like in bright sunlight. Sorrily enough, it does not do that in screen on, dim mode, stand-by, when three click goes to nothing different.
At first we suspected some special trigger to activate or deactivate a low power mode. Some folks even suggested that a brief touch in both up/down buttons, like when you set the resistance, but very short, to avoid that setting, triggers something. Well, in my experience it is not that way, and the 'brief pressure' in both up/down buttons ends up, half the times, in a wrong-calibrated base resistance...
BTW, it might be crucial to check firmware options. Perhaps some folks have different versions running their D2's. Mine, like almost all reviewed ones, it doesn't matter if they have the 'TEST' label under the battery or not, showed 'SX130H V2.0'. You can get it pressing the fire button and putting the battery at once, like all YiHi chips do.