IPV Mini V2 ???
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You can find them on a instagram account @selectvape for a decent price. Along with other items 
Happy Valentines day everyone.
Happy Valentines day everyone.
That Orchid RBA has to be a Tobeco clone... the average price in the USA is $140 for the authentic. If they sold it to you as an authentic I'd go complain big time!
Forgot if this was mentioned earlier but does anybody elses' battery indicator drop down to almost empty whilst firing? I'm assuming that's just voltage drop under load or something like that but not 100% sure and after a day of use so far my 25r batt isn't even 1/4 of the way dead yet
Yes, the indicator will drop. It shows you how much voltage from the battery you are using while firing. So at higher wattages the boost circuit is going to be pulling max voltage from the battery, hence the meter dropping. If you turn it down to the lower wattage ranges the IPV will pull less voltage from the battery, hence the meter won't drop as much.
Yup it is a clone but it's still good cause B&M here sells clone rba for 30 to 50$
Yes, but at some point at high wattage and low battery, it will cut off simply because it can`t draw what you are asking from the batteri cell. Its all controlled and monitored within the chip, so dont worry about it
Thanks, that's what I figured and researched to double check that as voltage drops the mod draws more amps from your batt as a trade off from less voltage and I just had to check how many amps it was drawing on my 0.8 build @ 23W and looked at battery specs, thank goodness regulated mods keep us "more" safe
Good thread all! I have both the IPV Mini and Mini 2. While the original IPV Mini is good, I wanted the "overhead" in terms of power. A few observations of the differences:
I thought that the mobile power "feature" on the original was at best wonky, particularly considering that it does not come with the needed attachment.
I much prefer the black-out screen over the mirrored screen; although the buttons are the same, due to the different board I find the IPV Mini 2 has a little better button action, and at least mine has no button rattle which the original does.
No PWM mode on the IPV Mini 2, so it does not step down, but then I vape nothing at that low a setting anyway.
Both versions do "pass through" vape, although of course as with many so-called pass through mods, it is not a true pass through mode. While I would prefer the USB port on the side, its not a biggie for me as I prefer to charge my batteries on my LUC charger and usually just swap out batteries.
Neither of my Minis have any issue on the 510 connector, nice and flush/even. If I had that issue I would insist on a replacement. I have seen Hana Modz with a poorly placed 510 connection as well...why put up with that or need to "repair" a quality control issue?
I find the ohm reading on the Mini 2 to be a bit more accurate than on the original.
I find this a great match for the Subtank Mini and my Kayfun.
My IPV Mini 2 is silver, and it is smooth to be sure, though not really a big issue in terms of grip for me due to its shape, however, after seeing the pics with the carbon fiber wrap, I may have to get it for appearance sake alone!
At the end of the day, it is what it is, a fine $64 mod that I don't have to be paranoid about taking along with me.
I thought that the mobile power "feature" on the original was at best wonky, particularly considering that it does not come with the needed attachment.
I much prefer the black-out screen over the mirrored screen; although the buttons are the same, due to the different board I find the IPV Mini 2 has a little better button action, and at least mine has no button rattle which the original does.
No PWM mode on the IPV Mini 2, so it does not step down, but then I vape nothing at that low a setting anyway.
Both versions do "pass through" vape, although of course as with many so-called pass through mods, it is not a true pass through mode. While I would prefer the USB port on the side, its not a biggie for me as I prefer to charge my batteries on my LUC charger and usually just swap out batteries.
Neither of my Minis have any issue on the 510 connector, nice and flush/even. If I had that issue I would insist on a replacement. I have seen Hana Modz with a poorly placed 510 connection as well...why put up with that or need to "repair" a quality control issue?
I find the ohm reading on the Mini 2 to be a bit more accurate than on the original.
I find this a great match for the Subtank Mini and my Kayfun.
My IPV Mini 2 is silver, and it is smooth to be sure, though not really a big issue in terms of grip for me due to its shape, however, after seeing the pics with the carbon fiber wrap, I may have to get it for appearance sake alone!
At the end of the day, it is what it is, a fine $64 mod that I don't have to be paranoid about taking along with me.
I have found that when the stationary battery bar (not when firing) gets to about the halfway mark, its time to charge!
The IPV Mini v2 wont fire once the battery is below 3.2 volts, which is perfectly acceptable as most cells these days can fire below 3 volts without cell stressing.
So yes, you can use the battery in the device until it no longer fires and gives you the battery error.
You'll see a MAJOR hit in performance right before you hit 3.2 volts anyways.
So yes, you can use the battery in the device until it no longer fires and gives you the battery error.
You'll see a MAJOR hit in performance right before you hit 3.2 volts anyways.
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I wasn't aware of that, thanks! I'll have to test that in mine today!
Yeah ... most regulated mods have battery protection that shuts off power to the battery between 3.2-3.4 volts.
In the case of these YiHi chips ... they also limit power output right BEFORE 3.2 volts ... allowing you to know its time to change the battery without ever looking at the screen.
The dropoff is VERY noticable.
In the case of these YiHi chips ... they also limit power output right BEFORE 3.2 volts ... allowing you to know its time to change the battery without ever looking at the screen.
The dropoff is VERY noticable.
I thought it was best to not let our batts go below 3.5V? So that's what I've been shooting for.
Being that you are way more knowledgeable on batts than I, is there any reason NOT to allow the mini II to just go to shut off with respect to batt voltage? Any benefit to pulling it out at 3.5V, or should I just let it go till the mod shuts it off?
People who pull at 3.5 are just being over precautious with their batteries.
If it makes someone feel better to pull them at that voltage there is nothing wrong with that.
But alot of batteries these days can be discharged all the way down below 3 volts per the manufacturer. Check the data and specs of your specific battery and do what makes you feel comfortable.
Personally I just change my batteries whenever I notice they are getting close. Sometimes thats before protection kicks in ... other times not.
My batteries stay healthy for a long time without ever worrying about their voltage. Even in mechs mods my batteries will underperform before it drops below its safe voltage.
If it makes someone feel better to pull them at that voltage there is nothing wrong with that.
But alot of batteries these days can be discharged all the way down below 3 volts per the manufacturer. Check the data and specs of your specific battery and do what makes you feel comfortable.
Personally I just change my batteries whenever I notice they are getting close. Sometimes thats before protection kicks in ... other times not.
My batteries stay healthy for a long time without ever worrying about their voltage. Even in mechs mods my batteries will underperform before it drops below its safe voltage.
I thought I was doing what was in my best interest for battery longevity! I'll just let them go till the mini II shuts them down then. BTW, I use a mix of MXJO's and Sammy 25R's!
Samsung and MXJO's end voltage is 2.5 volts.
Below 2.5 volts and the cells with have irreversible cell death, not allowing you to charge them.
3.5-3.6 resting voltage is the voltage you could consider "charge state". Meaning it is the best time to recharge the battery as the cell can no longer produce the 3.7 voltage rating of the battery. Regulated mods combat this by pulling more amps from the battery.
Truth be told, you might get longer performance from a battery by pulling it as soon as it goes below 3.7 volts. But by constantly pulling the battery at this voltage and using up a charge cycle ... you can also introduce increased resistance over time. Every single battery cell is slightly different and can react differently so there is no exact science.
Since batteries are relatively inexpensive, I choose to not pay much attention to this matter. I figure if I can get 9-12 months of life out of a battery I've received my moneys worth. My methods work for me, but someone else might feel different.
As long as you aren't going past a batteries end voltage rating (and allow some wiggle room) ... you should get enough use out of it before needing to replace it IMHO.
Below 2.5 volts and the cells with have irreversible cell death, not allowing you to charge them.
3.5-3.6 resting voltage is the voltage you could consider "charge state". Meaning it is the best time to recharge the battery as the cell can no longer produce the 3.7 voltage rating of the battery. Regulated mods combat this by pulling more amps from the battery.
Truth be told, you might get longer performance from a battery by pulling it as soon as it goes below 3.7 volts. But by constantly pulling the battery at this voltage and using up a charge cycle ... you can also introduce increased resistance over time. Every single battery cell is slightly different and can react differently so there is no exact science.
Since batteries are relatively inexpensive, I choose to not pay much attention to this matter. I figure if I can get 9-12 months of life out of a battery I've received my moneys worth. My methods work for me, but someone else might feel different.
As long as you aren't going past a batteries end voltage rating (and allow some wiggle room) ... you should get enough use out of it before needing to replace it IMHO.
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