iPV Mini?
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Got a response! Will get a new device along with return shipping label! Yay!
Veronica,
I apologize for my technician not testing the device long enough. On Monday morning we'll be sending out a brand new device along with a return shipping label for the defective device. All i ask is that you complete another merchandise return form and include it in the package when you use the return label to send your device back. Here is your tracking number for the replacement.
???
I've got 3 and never get a burnt hit...........unless I screw up and vape a tank dry or forget to reset power for a Clearo instead of my Orchid.
Check all threading - device/topper for a good clean contact.
If all fails, open it up and check wire connections internally.
If the Ohms do not jump, you should not get any different vape through usable battery life.
I nominate you King of the IPV minis, crxess. Well done.
Cannot believe this but it was due to greasy oil filled connection. Thanks crxess
Thank you Kat..
I have collected to many Mods. Waiting on my SX Mini S Replica now
Glad I could Help.
A clean device is a happy device
Voltage is within range, mod is clean as is 510 connection and it is still happening.
@chanelvaps, are you talking about the 30w IPV Mini or the 70w IPV Mini II?
If it is the 30w version, which mode are you using?
If it is the 30w version, which mode are you using?
I am talking about the 30 watt and I am using DC-DC mode. Vaping at 12 watts and under
There may be your answer. Isn't DC-DC mode the one without step-down? Try putting it in the other mode (are they calling it RMS mode or PWM mode?) and leave it there. It will boost and buck as necessary.
And yes, you can remove the hex screws and carefully open it up and make sure it is clean and dry inside.
Fully agree!
If your ohms load is off, above about 1.4, you will get to much power in DC-DC mode.
What type of Atomizer and what ohm coil are you running?
My wife runs PWM @ 7.5 watts for a Protank 2.8ohm coil with AFC base.
Ohm is 1.4, Taifun GT2 topper.
Going to try opening it up. I am pretty sure I have tried it in both modes, PWM and DC-DC
I guess first I need to try another topper on it and make sure it is the device and not the topper
Going to try opening it up. I am pretty sure I have tried it in both modes, PWM and DC-DC
I guess first I need to try another topper on it and make sure it is the device and not the topper
I don't even know what DC-DC mode is supposed to get you with this device. In PWM mode it will just kick in to DC-DC once you set the watts high enough that your battery can handle the ohms your running. It won't buck at all, so in DC-DC mode it just functions basically like a mech and your going to get what the combo of your batts and atty is going to get you. Basically in DC-DC mode, you may set it to 5 watts, it might say 5 watts, but you could actually be pulling 10 for all you know. PWM mode is basically the only mode where you set it, you can know what your going to get. I have even forgotten it even has a DC-DC mode to be honest. It's a great mod though, currently my favorite one that I own seems to be built like a tank. I don't own anything super expensive so I can't compare it to say an SX mini or something like that.
This paragraph explained it all better to me than anything/anyone else so far. THANK YOU. Staying in PWM mode from here on out
You're welcome. I usually run between 1.7 to 2 ohms, 29 or 30 gauge kanthal, so I usually run between 9 to 12 watts, usually staying around 10, which is plenty warm for me. Thinner wire at higher ohms runs pretty hot. I don't think you said what gauge your using, obviously though with your setup running at lower watts you don't want it to behave like an unregulated mod so, PWM is the way to go. At any rate with my setup, running at 10 watts, I know that DC-DC mode hasn't kicked in as I can hear the slight whine you get from your atty when PWM mode kicks in. When I crank it up to around 14 or 15 or so, the whine will go away.. Which means it's kicked in to DC-DC mode. So I really don't understand what the idea was to offer a DC-DC mode, when it will just kick in automatically at higher wattage setting anyway.
Edit: I should say that I only sometimes hear the whine from PWM. Sometimes I manage to make a coil and install it that for some reason will whine, sometimes I make them and install them and they don't.
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