Iron Lung REOnauts *Sub-OHM*

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GreatestUnKnown

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Let me preface by stating battery safety and personal responsibility is paramount. Please perform the nessecary research and follow safety practices for builds and batteries. I am not on my home computer so I am unable to provide links to useful information in relation to this subject.

The reason I began this thread is to address the number of REOnauts who do vape sub ohm on a daily basis with either the new contacts or their own modified or "hot rod" REO and track the performance and/or limitation, whatever they may be.

I will edit or update this post when I return home to provide links as well as personal data from my own experience thus far with my REOs.

In the meantime I pose a question to you REOville, after running both of my current REOs in the 0.20-0.50 Ohm range for a few weeks now I have noticed that the arcing and carbon build, up both on my positive battery terminal and firing pin, is severely impeding the performance. I use either my VTC4 or VTC5 batteries depending on daily activities, so in between charging cycles I will clean off the battery terminal with a microfiber cloth and some metal polish. Today I noticed after using a q-tip with some alcohol on my firing pin that the area where it contacts the battery the gold plating had already worn off. Has anyone experienced this as well? (The gold plating of their firing pin wearing off.)

Again I stress the importance of having the proper tools and knowledge when running your REO at these extremes. When my next REO arrives I will perform a baseline against my current REOs to measure the totar resistance.
 

turbocad6

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gold plating is used because gold doesn't oxidise at all so in theory it should be better, but a plating is only a thin few microns thick plating so it's inevitable that it will eventually wear off but that's fine because underneath the plating is beryllium copper, just clean that contact periodically and it'll be fine even with the gold worn away from the contact area, but yeah, the copper does oxidise and will need periodic cleaning
 

73neb

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I've been carrying two grands all day every day running .4-.6 ohm coils with VTC4's & 5's. I got the upgraded contacts for my original grand in the second batch and got my LP grand shortly thereafter. I have noticed some arcing, but I wipe the contacts every night with a qtip and the gold plating is still intact. I wonder if pushing the button a little heavy might be causing some rubbing on the battery top and wearing through the plating? I know for me it took a while to train myself not to mash the button.
 

SeaNap

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I've been carrying two grands all day every day running .4-.6 ohm coils with VTC4's & 5's. I got the upgraded contacts for my original grand in the second batch and got my LP grand shortly thereafter. I have noticed some arcing, but I wipe the contacts every night with a qtip and the gold plating is still intact. I wonder if pushing the button a little heavy might be causing some rubbing on the battery top and wearing through the plating? I know for me it took a while to train myself not to mash the button.

That's what it is, my half circle firing tip is now a full circle. I have a tendency to hulk smash the button when the battery is dying and I've had a few brews...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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I've been carrying two grands all day every day running .4-.6 ohm coils with VTC4's & 5's. I got the upgraded contacts for my original grand in the second batch and got my LP grand shortly thereafter. I have noticed some arcing, but I wipe the contacts every night with a qtip and the gold plating is still intact. I wonder if pushing the button a little heavy might be causing some rubbing on the battery top and wearing through the plating? I know for me it took a while to train myself not to mash the button.

I bet the charger's are a big culprit in the rubbing of the terminals, i'm not gonna faf about with the battery to much, it is what it is and if it wears out and get's bad i will swap out for a different brand :D
One thing i have noticed though is my efest are 6month's old and the terminal's are still as nice and shiny as the day i bought em, they have a silvery surface to em, the new Sony's look kind off shiny but almost a nichrome colour instead of silvery if that makes sense.


What's the internal resistance on the VTC5? i read the spreadsheet and it sais: Internal Impedance ~ 13.0mΩ Typ. measured by AC1kHz. How do you translate that?



My Vdrop test's are in my SIG and are without taking off battery internal resistance.
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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They were talking about the gold plating on the contact pin being worn away. Not the battery top.

Sent from my SM-N900T

ohhhh... the pin!! I only installed mine to check the VD... I liked the springiness it had.


I run a fuse and a 0.012 brass pin on mine, this pin has the full width contacting the battery, I like it lots & lots, I just cant seem to better it, so ive stuck with it.
 

Quigsworth

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As Turbo mentioned, I wouldn't sweat the gold plating, the beryllium underneath it is still an outstanding contact material.

Interesting that I've stumbled on to this thread now...I've been emailing back and forth with a buddy who's still in the industrial controls biz (he's actually an elevator mech. who specializes in keeping older relay controllers alive...believe me, this guy knows his contacts!) ...he asked if I was still doing that crazy vaping thing and we got on the subject of contacts and arcing...his suggestion, get this, you won't be sorry...

DeoxIT® Gold, #G100P ...granted it's not cheap but as I get further and further into making my own mechs I think it'll be worth it in the long run...

btw, try and avoid cleaning with alcohol, ya it can work but there's invariably water in most alcohol solutions...in an hour you'll be right back where you started from.
 
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Quigsworth

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SLIPPY_EEL

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At least until you hit that pressed in 510 like I did when I built the http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/557303-hybrid-grand.html

I went as far as using my dad's steering column puller in an attempt to extract it...pfft, drill it out and press in a new one...now that's taking apart a Grand, lol


that's a lot of work! a lot further then most would go! was the threading chewed up on it or did you just wanna change it to your setup? nice job btw.

here Quigs, i'm trying to find out my batteries internal resistance without actually measuring at the batt terminal's, ... hmm, as im writing this i'm thinking I could do it if I took out the delrin cover, the only other thing I have to get around is the fuse which covers the whole of the bottom of the battery & the fuse pins are facing inwards...

but I have got this from the spreadsheet or printout on the VTC5 spec>> Internal Impedance ~ 13.0mΩ Typ. measured by AC1kHz.
 

Quigsworth

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Nope, perfectly good Grand, just something I always wanted to do, I've done it twice actually but one is running a Zmax chip so it doesn't count.

Honestly, I've never put much weight in attempting to measure the IR component of the overall cct V drop when using a high C batt. If I remember my electricity 101, Kirchoff's law states that in a closed cct, total V drop = V source. At 13.0mΩ IR, I doubt anything other than the sampling resolution of an oscilloscope would you be able to demonstrate with any accuracy the, for example a total 4V of drop, that .1v was dropped across the batt (follow?)...sure, in lower C batts like an AW IMR, IR becomes more of a factor, but even then?

And here's the final kicker...if you did manage to measure what the v drop was across the batt...what are you going to do about it?:D

Now, if I posted that on Calivapes in the super cloudchasers thread 50 guys would flame the crap out of me...but it is what it is :p
 
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