Iron Lung REOnauts *Sub-OHM*

[GreatestUnKnown]

Hi ppl,

I was wondering if adding rare magnets $0.99 Round Super Strong Rare-Earth Magnets (5-Pack) 5-pack - 5mm*1mm / perfect for use on batteries at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping add to voltage drop and also not make any difference in the arching?

my coil runs @ 0.28ohms i use Sony VTC4

Thanks
jhf

I am a little lost in to how you mean to incorporate the rare earth magnets in the switch? There is the use of magnets to deflect or even mitigate arcing in some high current DC circuits switching mechanisms but in this particular application the use of such a component would be larger than the space provided for.



If you click on the link/pic you can see where they discuss the use of magnetic forces to deflect or elongate the arc to the point where it would not be as intense during the time when the two contact surfaces are disconnecting, which is the point that the arc potential is greatest.

ADDIT: In case you missed the video they were discussing in my link,

 

[Quigsworth]

As cool as using magnetic interference would be in our mods (that would be one serious "bleeding edge" upgrade for Rob's fleet )...there is a much simpler way to mitigate arcing...this is what I was talking about when I mentioned incorporating a fly-back diode a while back...if you're interested give this a read, Wikipedia gives a pretty good (light on the math ) break-down...

Flyback diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

btw, our coil is essentially an inductor

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

I am actually using the Schottky diodes in my circuit for a regulated mod that I am building and the principle is the same. I do not deny that this would work for what we are looking to achieve but my approach is to retain as much of the original design/function of the REOs mechanical switch... I am curious how you think you use the flyback in a REO...just quick brain storming I would reverse the oreintation of the battery and use the flyback to interrupt the circuit, if that make sense... I suck at circuit schematics

 

[JHf]

I was just thinking to add a magnet to the top of the VTC4 flat top....I don't own a multi-meter so I can't do any tests to see any voltage drop. I was just thinking it would save the battery from the pitting caused by the arching.

Sorry, I don't know too much about electronics

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

ah he means like using a magnet in place of the fuse, you can but only certain magnets.. im not sure of the name unless Quigs knows i can search google..

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

I was just thinking to add a magnet to the top of the VTC4 flat top....I don't own a multi-meter so I can't do any tests to see any voltage drop. I was just thinking it would save the battery from the pitting caused by the arching.

Sorry, I don't know too much about electronics

Neodymium magnet

cloud9vaping do em

 

[JHf]

So would it be bad for me to use the magnets from Fasttech?

I see reviewers say they use it for mech mods, but i'm guessing for for tube mods not the Reo.

I'm still waiting for de-toxit...

 

[Quigsworth]

If I where to incorporate a fly-back just as an experiment...the battery can stay in it's usual orientation...to start I would attach a test lead (scrap piece of wire) to the center pin of the Grand (loosen off the feed nipple that captures the firing strip and wrap your lead around it a few times then re-tighten) then capture another test lead under the spring. The banded end of the diode has to be attached to the center pin lead or you'll collapse the spring as soon as you make the other connection (dead short) ...without going through on-line catalogs for exact spec. (which would be impossible because of our differing loads) a beefy IN5400 series should work, plus they're cheap, if you pop a couple, meh...start with something in the area of 10v+/10A+ and short of connecting your Grand up to an oscilloscope, just see which one give the best performance. When I installed fly-backs in the field there was a lot of trial and error...a lot of times there was just too many load variables in a cct to work out the math (i.e. a contactor control board for a piece of equipment in a machine shop)...like I've mentioned ad-nausum you can't totally negate arcing, we were just attempting to get a contactor to last as long as possible.

But that's just me thinking...about crap as usual

 

[Quigsworth]

I was just thinking to add a magnet to the top of the VTC4 flat top....I don't own a multi-meter so I can't do any tests to see any voltage drop. I was just thinking it would save the battery from the pitting caused by the arching.

Sorry, I don't know too much about electronics

Don't worry about saving the battery...even with arcing the positive terminal will last longer that the battery will...every physical non-soldered connection is another point of Vdrop, you'll be wasting batt voltage making a magnet hot as well as your coil

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

Okay lots to cover but parts are in for like three separate projects and I dont want to just shoot off at the hip to all of you who have contributed so far, but I will come back to hopefully have some good news and also see what everyone else has found...

 

[MattyB1503]

It's not the mod (Grand or otherwise)...I'm pretty much convinced that "some" VTC's have an "enhanced" arcing quality, lol...the surface of the pos. terminal is pitted on some...MattyB noted this when he looked at the surface with loupe, then I did the same and then compared their performance against my LG's and Samsung's...awesome batt, but I think Sony really dropped the ball on their QC

btw, I kinda disagree on the Grand not being made for sub-ohm...I've been running .3 24 awg duals in my Magma running Rob's stock S/O contact and a fuse all weekend with no issues...

Totally agree. I've been running my VTC4's in my Reo lately; less pitting and ox (than my 5's).

"what changed?": same build res., same atty, same juice even. Me thinks it's either or combo of battery fitment (insulation) and battery pos mtrl itself.

I did go to plate: silver production parts and did type II D hardness gold on some Paps Gpins, button stem, bottom contact, etc. Haven't even opened the delrin on the Reo.


Would love to get mine souped-up w/ a fuse or even solid threaded bottom contact but I'm waiting for you guys to figure this out for me

 

[MattyB1503]

BTW, who says these are not for sub-ohm vaping?

I just crushed half a fill (that's like ~3ml I think).

45 min...

 

[Quigsworth]

...Would love to get mine souped-up w/ a fuse or even solid threaded bottom contact but I'm waiting for you guys to figure this out for me

A solid threaded neg. contact?...that's an interesting idea, have to say, never thought of that...I've been kicking around ideas for "Russian Tractor Redux"

...I've already decided any wire I use on it will be no less than #12 awg solid, any soldering will be done with silver solder (except where I use the ruby flux (if it's SS) to literally solder the neg lead to the body of the RDA I choose and epoxy into place, I'm not even bothering with a 510) and the firing leaf (one of my 30A beryllium contacts) will be soldered to the custom copper center pin I make for the RDA (needless to say I have to choose my RDA carefully...got a copper Tobh coming, I'll see how it vapes)...the fuse I use will be soldered in, PITA when/if it blows but meh...the only thing that was bugging me was the neg. contact...

so if I silver soldered the #12 to a threaded copper lug I could drill a hole in the bottom of the mod and run a copper grub screw up through the lug and force a neg. contact as well a tightly trap the batt in place...well done Matty! I like it...

I recognize that this will kinda be an impractical mod (batt swaps will require a tool) but I'm building it to see if I can get as close to immeasurable cct vdrop in a bf possible...and because I want to

 

[MattyB1503]

A solid threaded neg. contact?...that's an interesting idea, have to say, never thought of that...I've been kicking around ideas for "Russian Tractor Redux"

...I've already decided any wire I use on it will be no less than #12 awg solid, any soldering will be done with silver solder (except where I use the ruby flux (if it's SS) to literally solder the neg lead to the body of the RDA I choose and epoxy into place, I'm not even bothering with a 510) and the firing leaf (one of my 30A beryllium contacts) will be soldered to the custom copper center pin I make for the RDA (needless to say I have to choose my RDA carefully...got a copper Tobh coming, I'll see how it vapes)...the fuse I use will be soldered in, PITA when/if it blows but meh...the only thing that was bugging me was the neg. contact...

so if I silver soldered the #12 to a threaded copper lug I could drill a hole in the bottom of the mod and run a copper grub screw up through the lug and force a neg. contact as well a tightly trap the batt in place...well done Matty! I like it...

I recognize that this will kinda be an impractical mod (batt swaps will require a tool) but I'm building it to see if I can get as close to immeasurable cct vdrop in a bf possible...and because I want to

Not really familiar with the "Russian Tractor Redux".

My original idea, as soon as I saw the Reo spring arrangement, was just to replace with a large-ish dai set screw or cut brass bolt (and plate). Maybe epoxy/screws and delrin would be needed to increase the female threads past the al, idk, haven't gotten that far.

But, yeah the basic idea would be to adjust it with a finger or coin at worst.

Would like to keep mine purely mech; we all know (I hope) it's going to arc I just want to reduce pitting and ox on those VTC's

So, I did just peek at the guts. I get why the rolled edge on the leaf is only (looks like) ~0.060" dia. It's for battery nipple clearance. If I'm only running flat tops why not just roll a larger dia and then maybe squish or crush it a bit.

Damn, now I'm going to be looking for beryllium. Add that to the list.

Newcomb could make it as long as we had dims but the Qnty would have to be in the K range, cough cough flat top leaf... @ Rob.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

So got some parts curing and need to take more measurements for my other projects but I was burnt out from jumping around with my dial calipers... so I decided to take a stab at using one of the contacts from the Keystone 18650 battery tray that came in today.

HOTLINKED hope they dont mind....

The reason I wanted to try this method out so badly is because the tray contact is a gold plated nickel, the fact that our firing pin/springs are gold plated and the VTC# series batteries use a different metal (I could have sworn that it was a nickel alloy but I cannot find the data to back that claim up at this current time.) I knew that by using a stationary positive gold plated contact would greatly reduce the arcing/oxidation of the switch disengagement because of the use of the two similar metals. I believe that I have reached the limitations of firing pin/spring and would need to look at the 510 to eliminate any further VD but am unsure if I will actually go forward with it since my initial results have satisfied the consistency issue dealing with the VTC# series positive contact.

I understand the spring is very compressed but this was an initial test and I can fine tune it to allow enough room for a dropped spring in case of a short, or I can make a holder for these awesome fuses I found! Low Profile Mini fuses

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

So I realize the VD numbers will be slightly daunting to those not familiar with vaping at these extremes I have decided to do a pretty wide range of tests in the next few days inbetween other projects. I branched this test out to 1.20 1.00, 0.80, 0.50, 0.25 and as low as I would push a VTC5 is 0.16Ω.

Everyone who has contributed so far has had some great ideas and for some have found their desired vape with the mods they have done already. I hope more can join in to share their results and opinions to help all of us not only see what works but also precision tune our REO to our ultimate vape.

 

[MattyB1503]

It's the simpler things that get me going.

Pure genius.

Guessing like 2 or 3 bucks.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

It's the simpler things that get me going.

Pure genius.

Guessing like 2 or 3 bucks.

I did get it for $2.57 from Mouser along with parts for a regulated box mod, just checked and I think they are out of stock, competing with those box mod makers as well as DIY home mod makers....

Just checked the updated data sheet from Keystone Electronics and the contact is actually phosphor bronze with gold "flash" or plating.

The first mount was just using some CA I had on hand but I will remount using a countersunk head machine screw very similar to the one for the spring mount and I will file down some of the delrin to allow more visibility to the firing pin surface point for easy cleaning.

Back to the work bench and I will also rebuild some RDAs with the new range of resistances for a VD test.

 

[Quigsworth]

I know it's a big commitment but I realized one of my biggest VD improvements was hybriding the RDA, making my own extended center pin/post to eliminate the 510...direct connect the firing strip to the center pin/post...it's not so much that the 510 isn't a decent connection...it's just not a very "consistent" connection...not to mention I have a number of mods (6 are Reo products) and I found that I tend to pair RDA's with mods (not a big swapper) so it wasn't hard for me to make the call...

...not to mention, I've made a number of these pins now (getting fairly good at it) and have developed some consistencies so once it's done I can move my modded RDA's from one hybrided Reo to another...it's no harder to do than installing an S/O kit.

btw Greatest...nice work, a paired contacts...one of the projects on my bench is a beater Grand with a stripped screw that holds the delrin. I've been thinking of how to reinvent that component to allow what you're mentioning re: more visibility...looking at what you did just gave me some inspiration...

 

[Quigsworth]

Btw...just poking around for parts...check these out 10 Pcs Car Audio Mini ANL Fuse Auto Stud Fuses 20A Amp | eBay