is 0.10 ohms dangerous?

[Asbestos4004]

Maybe it's just been a long day...but the mere fact that you have to ask "is it safe" tells me that it is not safe. Why 20 ga wire? Why .1 ohm? Who has gotten it into your head that super low ohms perform better than standard-ish builds? You're running this on a regulated mod. A .1 ohm build has no performance advantages over a .8 or 1 ohm coil. Contrarily, it'll destroy your battery life, possibly destroy your insulators and possibly destroy your mod. The flavor won't be any better and your clouds won't be any bigger.

 

[Two_Bears]

Maybe it's just been a long day...but the mere fact that you have to ask "is it safe" tells me that it is not safe. Why 20 ga wire? Why .1 ohm? Who has gotten it into your head that super low ohms perform better than standard-ish builds? You're running this on a regulated mod. A .1 ohm build has no performance advantages over a .8 or 1 ohm coil. Contrarily, it'll destroy your battery life, possibly destroy your insulators and possibly destroy your mod. The flavor won't be any better and your clouds won't be any bigger.

Well it will do two things.

Decimate his battery life if it doesn't turn his batteries into a pipe bomb

Burn a lot more juice.

I really prefer my builds at .8-1 for a bunch of reasons.

1. I have been able to vape this build in everything from the battery that came in my eVod starter kit, X6 and all if my higher powered mods

2.longer battery life

3. My Juice doesn't get consumed as fast as .4 and .5 builds

4. The flavor is better IMHO.

5. I can get a nice satisfying vape as low as 9 watts

 

[crxess]

Decimate his battery life if it doesn't turn his batteries into a pipe bomb

I'd either leave out the last 1/2 of that line or leave links to verify.
The whole purpose of regulated mods is SAFER VAPING. Battery Safety is a built in key feature of practically all Regulated mods.

If a Battery dips to quickly(overly high drain) Regulated mods will Stop firing or reset indicating a low battery problem(low energy transfer)

* Agreed, it makes NO sense to Run .1ohm at 60w when .4 ohm at 60w will do the same thing with less battery stress.

 

[bwh79]

* Agreed, it makes NO sense to Run .1ohm at 60w when .4 ohm at 60w will do the same thing with less battery stress.

That's actually not correct. Battery drain in a regulated mod is determined by the wattage setting and battery charge state only. The ohms don't even factor into the equation. Amps drawn from the battery are equal to watts setting divided by battery volts. So if your batt is sitting at, let's say 3.8v, for example, then 60w at .4ohm is 60/3.8 = roughly 15.8 amps. On the other hand, 60w at .1ohms is 60/3.8 = exactly the same 15.8 amps. Because the ohms don't matter on a regulated mod, you see. As far as the battery is concerned, 60 watts is 60 watts, and it doesn't matter matter if it's pushing them through 2 ohms or two-tenths of an ohm.

 

[Two_Bears]

I'd either leave out the last 1/2 of that line or leave links to verify.
The whole purpose of regulated mods is SAFER VAPING. Battery Safety is a built in key feature of practically all Regulated mods.

If a Battery dips to quickly(overly high drain) Regulated mods will Stop firing or reset indicating a low battery problem(low energy transfer)

* Agreed, it makes NO sense to Run .1ohm at 60w when .4 ohm at 60w will do the same thing with less battery stress.

Sub Ohm vaping is safe with Samsung high drain batteries or LG high drain batteries

Sub ohm vaping is not safe with efest batteries.

 

[crxess]

That's actually not correct. Battery drain in a regulated mod is determined by the wattage setting and battery charge state only. The ohms don't even factor into the equation. Amps drawn from the battery are equal to watts setting divided by battery volts. So if your batt is sitting at, let's say 3.8v, for example, then 60w at .4ohm is 60/3.8 = roughly 15.8 amps. On the other hand, 60w at .1ohms is 60/3.8 = exactly the same 15.8 amps. Because the ohms don't matter on a regulated mod, you see. As far as the battery is concerned, 60 watts is 60 watts, and it doesn't matter matter if it's pushing them through 2 ohms or two-tenths of an ohm.

Correct, didn't stop to do the math

Sub Ohm vaping is safe with Samsung high drain batteries or LG high drain batteries

Sub ohm vaping is not safe with efest batteries.

Brand of battery has little to do with Yes safe - No, not safe.
Depends on what is under the wrapping that makes the difference.
Several Efest ARE 20a, though I don't waste my money.

Regulated mods take into account physical data, not branding.

 

[bwh79]

Correct, didn't stop to do the math

It's not even about the math, that was just to illustrate my point. You said that 60w at one resistance would tax a battery more than 60w at another resistance; my point was that 60w will tax a battery the same amount no matter what the resistance. Note that it's the same math both times, even though the resistances are different. Also note that the resistance value doesn't appear anywhere in said math. That's what I was getting at.

 

[Layzee Vaper]

"Regulated mods take into account physical data, not branding."

If the regulated mod has a fixed battery you would hope that the manufacturer would build in the appropriate safety margin.

But if the mod has a removable battery all bets are off. A 5A battery with a 10A load is just as dangerous in a regulated mod as in a mech. The mod has no way of assessing the battery type that has been fitted.

With higher power regulated mods fitted with removable battery end users need to be just as aware of battery safety as mech users.

At least with a mech, most users are aware that there is a safety issue, its simple to work out the current draw on a fully charged battery and build so that you are pulling less than the CDR. If things do go wrong its generally going to happen the first time you hit the button as the most current is drawn on a fully charged battery. I always test fire the mod away from my face on a new build!

With a regulated mod this is not the case, as the battery discharges more current is drawn by the chipset to satisfy the required output. So the mod may work fine with a fully charged battery but the current draw will gradually increase. This would mean the battery may vent way after the user is convinced that the build is safe. You could argue that this is more dangerous as the user is lulled into a false sense of security.

Personally I stay under 50W on a single 20A rated 18650 mod, regulated or not!

 

[Two_Bears]

Correct, didn't stop to do the math



Brand of battery has little to do with Yes safe - No, not safe.
Depends on what is under the wrapping that makes the difference.
Several Efest ARE 20a, though I don't waste my money.

Regulated mods take into account physical data, not branding.

I know.

Branding has nothing to do with safety but the way the batteries are built.

I used efest as an example because they are usually the lowest grade of batteries that are rewrapped to represent them as better batteries than they are.

At sub ohm some batteries get very very hot and will vent or explode.

This is why people need to learn and practice battery safety.

 

[Canadian_Vaper]

(Sorry)
Hi and Welcome,

Does it fire? What mode and wire material?
That (.1Ω) is the lowest the XCII will fire in NON-TC mode.
TC mode will let you fire as low as .06.

Cheers
I

Depends on your batteries, that's a 24.5 amp draw...

Honestly I wouldn't, then again I don't go below .25 for safety reasons....... Better safe than sorry.

 

[crxess]

But if the mod has a removable battery all bets are off. A 5A battery with a 10A load is just as dangerous in a regulated mod as in a mech. The mod has no way of assessing the battery type that has been fitted.

Incorrect and proven with several Regulated Mods.
IPV-Mini - IPV-Mini2 - SX-Mini M, all Stop firing instantly if battery drain it to rapid.
eVic's Stop firing if drain is to rapid
Cloupor Mini, Mini plus - Power off/on if drain is to rapid.

Regulated Mods are Safer for most than a Mechanical because they ALWAYS monitor Battery capability. Unlike the mistake of a Human attempting to use a Low CDR Battery in a Sub-ohm Mechanical situation.

temp control chip SX350J
Line 44 of specifications

 

[Layzee Vaper]

Incorrect and proven with several Regulated Mods.
IPV-Mini - IPV-Mini2 - SX-Mini M, all Stop firing instantly if battery drain it to rapid.
eVic's Stop firing if drain is to rapid
Cloupor Mini, Mini plus - Power off/on if drain is to rapid.

Regulated Mods are Safer for most than a Mechanical because they ALWAYS monitor Battery capability. Unlike the mistake of a Human attempting to use a Low CDR Battery in a Sub-ohm Mechanical situation.

temp control chip SX350J
Line 44 of specifications

OK. Looking at the spec of the SX350J.
When using a single 18650

Minimum battery voltage is 3.2V
Maximum output is 60W
Efficiency is 93%

(60/3.2)/0.93 gives a maximum current draw of 20.16A that is right on the line for a 20A cell.

I would not run this close to the edge myself.

The mod can't tell if you have a 5, 10 or 20A cell. It's going to cut the power when the battery dips to 3.2V but at that point it would still be drawing way to much current for the 5 or 10 A cells. How much damage is being done to the cell before the cut off point? How many times will the cell put with the being over stretched? I don't know and I don't want to find out the hard way.

I will not run any mod without some form of protection against an out right short. I won't run any mod at higher wattage levels without a safety margin, to allow for battery capacity degrading over time.

I really don't think a regulated mod is always safe. The level of protection is dependent on each individual manufacturer and can vary from device to device. Users need to check the spec of the mod and the spec of the battery and the likely current levels drawn before hitting the button....

 

[Flt Simulation]

If your using Kanthal 20 gauge wire, 0.1 ohms resistance is pretty close to being a dead short.

I still can't understand the benefit from using a piece of Kanthal 20 gauge (coat hanger wire) with just 0.1 ohms.
_______________________________

60 watts power to this is going to give you a Heat Flux of about 660 mW/mm² ... HOT !

Not my idea of a nice comfortable all-day vape, but ... to each his own

 

[Ryedan]

yes it fires. 60w 0.10ohms memory mode. it says max m6. coil master 20g khantel wire. is it safe though?

On a regulated device like your xcube, amp draw is determined by the wattage setting, and the ohms don't matter one whit, as long as they are within the device's operational parameters. If your regulated device can fire a coil, it will fire it, and if it can't, it won't. Simple as that. Just make sure you don't use a wattage setting (on any coil) higher than your battery can handle.

@bwh79 nailed it

At 60 watts the maximum amp draw form each battery will be 11A. At 160 watts it will be up to 30A. I used the Steam Engine battery drain calculator to get these numbers. I entered 6V for battery voltage as that scenario is when the most current is pulled from the batts. As long as your batteries can handle the current draw you are as safe as you can be.

 

[Ryedan]

If your using Kanthal 20 gauge wire, 0.1 ohms resistance is pretty close to being a dead short.

I still can't understand the benefit from using a piece of Kanthal 20 gauge (coat hanger wire) with just 0.1 ohms.
_______________________________

60 watts power to this is going to give you a Heat Flux of about 660 mW/mm² ... HOT !

Not my idea of a nice comfortable all-day vape, but ... to each his own

The HF with 20 gauge Kanthal, dual coil at 0.1 ohms is 165 mW/mm², which is a very comfortable vape. It would be 660 mW/mm² using a single coil, but the Velocity has dual coil capability and considering that at 660 juice would be quite burnt he must be using a dual coil setup. The build should be good up to around 125 watts at least.

I have 2 Mutation X V1's, one setup with 27 gauge Kanthal at 0.4 ohms and the other using 24 gauge at 0.18 ohms. Both are quite nice between 40-50 watts, but the vape is slightly different from each and the thicker wire is very stable to work with and maintain. I use them both on regulated mods so the resistance doesn't affect safety. It's just personal preference about how you prefer to set up your atty to get the vape experience you want.

I think the safe minimum resistance thing is a left-over concept from the mech mod days.

 

[bones1274]

Sub ohming shouldn't be attempted unless you have a firm grasp of Ohms Law.

 

[tj99959]

As stated several times already, the resistance isn't part of the equation. 60 watts is 60 watts regardless. So the real question becomes 'why bother trying to build a 0.1 ohm coil'?

Give us a reason why you think a 0.1 ohm coil will produce a better vape.

 

[Asbestos4004]

As stated several times already, the resistance isn't part of the equation. 60 watts is 60 watts regardless. So the real question becomes 'why bother trying to build a 0.1 ohm coil'?

Because the guys at the vape shop poke fun at me if I don't.

 

[Rizzyking]

Not the best build or wire to use but the biggest safety failure is you, if your having to come on forums to ask if something is safe your already in trouble and I would suggest you read up and retain ohms law and battery safety at a minimum researching coil builds also a good idea.

 

[tj99959]

Because the guys at the vape shop poke fun at me if I don't.

ya made my day!