I assume you reinstalled the coil incorrectly.
.. and the magic solution was,,,?
Is it normal for a Vivi Nova coil to burn out in just 2 days use?
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I assume you reinstalled the coil incorrectly.
.. and the magic solution was,,,?
I am wondering if this is a supplier issue. I have never had a problem with my coils on any of the heads I have used so far. They last me at least a month and more like two. My wicks have degraded before the heads burn out. I don't understand all the problems people are having.
The beauty of variable voltage is that you can use any resistance on it. You just turn the voltage down to run the 1.8 ohm heads.
THe magic solution you might try is to read the post more closely. I said the old coil stopped working, then I put a new coil in and now it works
Besides, all there is to installing a new coil is to screw it in, so why would you assume someone couldnt thread something into place?
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Yeah, but why do people still buy high res coils and vape at 5-6v if they can vape at lower volts with lower res heads? I read that certain juices taste better at higher volts, and I have tried 2 that seem to do better at 4.7+ volts, and they are my primary juices.
If there is no legit reason to vape at higher volts with higher res. coils, then I'd gladly use the lower res ones I already have and vape at lower volts, because it would increase battery life, but I did notice a difference in strength of flavor with 2 juices so far out of about 10 I've tried with the VV at higher volts.
I'm still new at this so its a "work in progress" so to speak!
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I didnt say it was great, all I said here was that I didnt have problems with coils burning out. But on other threads I have pointed out that it doesnt wick up juice fast enough to keep up with the apparently higher juice demand when using the higher voltage PV. So 1 of 2 or 3 hits is a burnt hit, which means I have to repeatedly clean it all the time when using on the Lava Tube. It didnt do that with the lower voltage Ego battery very often. The Smoktech cartos havent burned out yet, but I dont use them all day every day either, and they dont hold much juice, you cant tell when they are empty til they are empty, and the taste isnt as good as with the Viv Nova.
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I've only been vaping for about 5 weeks now, and up until this one issue with the 1 coil in the Vivi Nova I havent had a single coil, carto or atty burn out yet, so this is my one dud apparently.
I actually just got a MM just about 2 weeks ago for testing Li Ion batteries so I dont store any of them for periods of time on a full 4.2V charge.(and for other reasons), but I havent figured out how to use it to check resistance on coils yet, as that isnt in the instructions and I just started using clearos that I can actually access the coils about 2 weeks ago.
Anyway, how do you check resistance of these coils or cartos or attys with a MM without having to disassemble the coils? is that possible?
Thanks
Um ... I'm not sure this is right. It's my understanding that it stresses your battery less to vape higher-ohm atomizers (i.e., 2.8+Ω) at higher voltage because of the lower amp draw. Also, using higher-ohm atomizers allows you to use the full range of voltage available on most VV devices (i.e., 3V-6V). This is where wattage is important ... you can get the exact same vaping experience using high-ohms at high voltage as you can with the low-ohms at low voltage, and best battery life is achieved using the former.
To check atomizer ohms using a DMM, set the meter to its lowest Ohms range (usually 200 on most meters I've used) and then hold the negative (black) lead to the threads of your atomizing device (e.g., your clearo) and the positive (red) lead to the center pin of the atomizing device. The meter should then read the total resistance of the atomizer plus the resistance of your meters test leads. Some meters compensate for lead resistance internally, but most don't, so you need to touch the negative and positive leads together and see what the meter reads for the internal resistance of the test leads. On most meters, this will be .3Ω or thereabouts. You need to subtract this value from the reading you took earlier ... for example, if you measured your atomizing device and the meter read 2.7Ω, and it then reads .3Ω when you touch the leads together, the actual resistance of your atomizer is 2.7Ω – .3Ω = 2.4Ω.
Especially with variable voltage, PV have a regulator that controls the output V. Regulators have efficiency curves, which show how efficiently the input battery supply (whether single or dual battery) gets converted to output voltage, as a function of input and output voltage. "Efficiency" in this case is % of power that makes it from gozinta to gozouta. If you are operating in a 95% efficiency area you are getting most of the input to the output. If you are down at say 85%, another 10% of the input power is being lost due to the conversion.
At least with the PV I own, they are more efficient up in the 4.5 - 5.5V output region than for the 3.5 - 4.5V area.
Then there's the "8W is 8W" part. At 5V I get 8W with a 3 ohm carto or atty. At 3.5V it takes a 1.5 ohm atty. If the atties are made of the same wire, the 1.5 ohm is only half the length, a hotter, more concentrated, heat source, likely to get more "popping". If the 1.5 ohm is made by putting two 3 ohm coils in parallel, exactly the same wire as the single 3 ohm, then the heat is more distributed, each coil only supplying 4W to the eliquid immediately contacting it, each of those two coils is running noticeably cooler. Net, a single 3 ohm at 5V will have a different heating characteristic compared to the 1.5 ohm solution.
Me, I tend to use 2.5 ohm single coil at about 4.5V. It works nicely with my all day vape. Other people really enjoy using lower resistance, at lower voltage -- there's no right or wrong to it, it's a matter of taste (though single coil low resistance do tend to fail faster I believe, since you're shoveling more current through the wire).
At least with the PV I own, they are more efficient up in the 4.5 - 5.5V output region than for the 3.5 - 4.5V area.
Then there's the "8W is 8W" part. At 5V I get 8W with a 3 ohm carto or atty. At 3.5V it takes a 1.5 ohm atty. If the atties are made of the same wire, the 1.5 ohm is only half the length, a hotter, more concentrated, heat source, likely to get more "popping". If the 1.5 ohm is made by putting two 3 ohm coils in parallel, exactly the same wire as the single 3 ohm, then the heat is more distributed, each coil only supplying 4W to the eliquid immediately contacting it, each of those two coils is running noticeably cooler. Net, a single 3 ohm at 5V will have a different heating characteristic compared to the 1.5 ohm solution.
Me, I tend to use 2.5 ohm single coil at about 4.5V. It works nicely with my all day vape. Other people really enjoy using lower resistance, at lower voltage -- there's no right or wrong to it, it's a matter of taste (though single coil low resistance do tend to fail faster I believe, since you're shoveling more current through the wire).
Highlander, google yourself up an Ohm's Law Calculator and start plugging some numbers in. You will find a higher resistance and using more volts also uses less amps. Your battery fuel tank is filled with amperes. That's why they are rated as 650mah, 900mah, 1000mah, etc...
Agreed here. I started vaping again at the end of last month after a decent break, and out of all of the products I've bought, only one atomizer and this damn Vivi Nova have given me any problems. I got a defective Varitube, but I got a refund for it so that doesn't count, lol.
I've gone around and around on the reasons why the Nova gets the burnt taste. It really comes down to the way it's designed- the way the head is made makes the rubber gasket melt in certain cases, and that sleeve around the coil likes to burn when it feels like it. Add wicking issues on top of all that, and you have the Nova. Lol.
An update, though...I let my nova with the 2.8 ohm head soak for a whole week, and I've been successfully vaping at 3.5-3.7 volts on my Bolt mod... So maybe it needed to "steep".
It still tastes burnt at anything higher than 3.7 volts, at 2.8 ohms...kind of sucks.My kanthal and silica wicks are in the mail, as is a new DID clone from the last co-op...we shall see how rewicking the novas compares to a genesis system...
Agreed here. I started vaping again at the end of last month after a decent break, and out of all of the products I've bought, only one atomizer and this damn Vivi Nova have given me any problems. I got a defective Varitube, but I got a refund for it so that doesn't count, lol.
I've gone around and around on the reasons why the Nova gets the burnt taste. It really comes down to the way it's designed- the way the head is made makes the rubber gasket melt in certain cases, and that sleeve around the coil likes to burn when it feels like it. Add wicking issues on top of all that, and you have the Nova. Lol.
An update, though...I let my nova with the 2.8 ohm head soak for a whole week, and I've been successfully vaping at 3.5-3.7 volts on my Bolt mod... So maybe it needed to "steep".
My kanthal and silica wicks are in the mail, as is a new DID clone from the last co-op...we shall see how rewicking the novas compares to a genesis system...
Get rid of that that sleeve around the coil. Don't need it. A common complaint is that it causes a burnt taste.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/332596-vivi-nova-mini-2-5-burnt-taste-fix.html
I made the thread.
Anyway, I'm now on my next tank full after a clean out...and I haven't gotten the burnt taste on the 2.8 coil yet.
I'm going to stick it on one of my VV mods and dial it up a bit-I'll report later. Perhaps the wicks really did need to soak for a long time in some juice...
I made the thread.
Anyway, I'm now on my next tank full after a clean out...and I haven't gotten the burnt taste on the 2.8 coil yet.
I'm going to stick it on one of my VV mods and dial it up a bit-I'll report later. Perhaps the wicks really did need to soak for a long time in some juice...
...Nope, it still burns horribly. I took a bunch of drags on it at 3.7 and it worked fine- As soon as I hit it at 3.8, NASTY burnt taste. I immediately took it back down to 3.7, and it works fine, except it's a light, airy draw and a cool vape with no TH.
Next up, I'll be rebuilding two of the heads to see whether a change to Kanthal A1 will help.
Next up, I'll be rebuilding two of the heads to see whether a change to Kanthal A1 will help.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/332596-vivi-nova-mini-2-5-burnt-taste-fix.html
I made the thread.
Anyway, I'm now on my next tank full after a clean out...and I haven't gotten the burnt taste on the 2.8 coil yet.
I'm going to stick it on one of my VV mods and dial it up a bit-I'll report later. Perhaps the wicks really did need to soak for a long time in some juice...
Who the hell knows. I'd rather be lucky than good. If the surf's up, grab your board!
good advice. i would like to add that all 5 of my factory-built "2.4" ohm heads were actually 2.9. so factor that in where appropriate.
One important thing to remember- many VV mods apparently do not generate exactly the voltage (or even wattage, for some VW mods) they advertise. Check out recent episodes of VapeTeam where they put a collection of mods on an accurate meter and show that many run quite hot, especially in the lower voltage ranges, which can throw your calculations off, and result in the burning you're experiencing. This can be especially true with mods using Pulse Width Modulation, which many people calculate the output voltage using a direct average, which will always calculate low and incorrect. For any modulating waveform, you need to calculate your output voltage using Root Means Squared, using equipment such as VapeBrain's ECDMeter http://vapebrain.com/rms.html .
Good luck, and I'd love to hear more as you explore. I, too, am a new vaper but very interested in VV and I grabbed a few rebuildable tank systems this week to see what they can do.
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