is it safe to use a .1 ohm coil on a vtc4?

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bombastinator

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I had overlooked that this was the mechanical mod section and apologise for my post on regulated devices. Would be nice if the OP could state what he is using for clarification.

But to not take this thread off topic with the functionalities of a regulated device, @bombastinator I will PM my response.
Gah. I missed “mechanical mods” section too. At least this time. Maybe not earlier. Not sure. All the regulated commentary doesn’t matter then.
 

TrollDragon

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Daily driver, 0.11Ω on the Lustro, I've also run 0.03Ω on the Wrecker...

WIN_20191018_13_21_58_Pro.jpg

Sorry for the poor quality image, just a little pot stirring. :D
 

bombastinator

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Daily driver, 0.11Ω on the Lustro, I've also run 0.03Ω on the Wrecker...

View attachment 845705
Sorry for the poor quality image, just a little pot stirring. :D
How did you measure the .03 though? Just because a hand held meter says .03 doesn’t mean it IS .03
 
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TrollDragon

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How did you measure the .03 though? Just because a hand held meter says .03 doesn’t mean it IS .03
The Wrecker reported the value on the screen, I cant remember if the DNA reported the same or a resistance too low error. (I have used 0.05Ω on the DNAs with an NiFe70 dual build before.)
 

TrollDragon

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Gah. I missed “mechanical mods” section too. At least this time. Maybe not earlier. Not sure. All the regulated commentary doesn’t matter then.
I knew it was in the mech section and wondered what you guys were on about... :D


I've never seen a mech mod with a screen like that. What one is it?
I'll have to put it in ByPass mode, that's the same as a mech no? :lol:
 

bombastinator

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I knew it was in the mech section and wondered what you guys were on about... :D
exposing my human limitation of vision publicly it seems
I'll have to put it in ByPass mode, that's the same as a mech no? :lol:
My best information is “it depends”. bypass modes are implemented in various ways.
 
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vaper1960

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I think if you mentioned an 0.1ohm resistor to most other than vapers, the reply might be "So a dead short?"
Just use regular wire instead of resistance wire (then you can ask "is it safe to use 0.01 ohms?")
What I actually mean to say is WHY? Just to brag that you used the lowest Ohms possible?
On a side note: I want to build an e-hooka with a 12 volt car battery... actually I'm being serious :eek:
 

bombastinator

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Just use regular wire instead of resistance wire (then you can ask "is it safe to use 0.01 ohms?")
What I actually mean to say is WHY? Just to brag that you used the lowest Ohms possible?
On a side note: I want to build an e-hooka with a 12 volt car battery... actually I'm being serious :eek:
re: low ohms usually go along with high mass exotic coils. They produce a feel of DL vape some prefer. Very hot high cloud DL. They’ve been partially supplanted by mesh these days. Mesh can be very low resistance too though. Below .2ohm is common for mesh.

I actually have also thought about the hookah thing, though car batteries are a pain to charge. My power method of choice is a 110v industrial mechanical transformer. I’ve actually got one around waiting for just this project. Weighs about the same as a car battery but is much prettier. It’s got brass fittings. Very steampunk.
 

vaper1960

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I actually got the idea from you bombastinator... you posted it as a joke once. I already have the charger and I could get a really small 12 volt battery. The hookah (I misspelled it because I thought it might get censored) might help cool the vape. I have no practical reason to do this... just something cool to show off.
 

Dr. Seuss

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Most regulated mods cut out at somewhere between .2 and .5ohms. So using a regulated device on this build will result in nothing.
I may be reading this wrong but they, from what I’ve seen, tend to average an allowance a lot lower than that. Like this Switcher I use for example cut’s off at .05. Maybe newer vs older would be a good way to distinguish them but the majority of mainstream regulated mods now days allow a pretty ridiculously low ohm build.

For anyone happening to read this, up the ohms and cut the mass. A .3 or .4 coil like a dual core 28 wrapped in 40 ga. puts out a ton of vapor. I think the need to dance with a dead short is an old school train of thought.
 

mimöschen

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I may be reading this wrong but they, from what I’ve seen, tend to average an allowance a lot lower than that. Like this Switcher I use for example cut’s off at .05. Maybe newer vs older would be a good way to distinguish them but the majority of mainstream regulated mods now days allow a pretty ridiculously low ohm build.

For anyone happening to read this, up the ohms and cut the mass. A .3 or .4 coil like a dual core 28 wrapped in 40 ga. puts out a ton of vapor. I think the need to dance with a dead short is an old school train of thought.
A .3 or even worse a .4 ohm coil on a single cell mech delivers a very poor DL vape. If any.
If you'd go stacked though, that'd be a different story.
Then you might even get away with .5 or .6.
 

zoiDman

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A .3 or even worse a .4 ohm coil on a single cell mech delivers a very poor DL vape. If any.
If you'd go stacked though, that'd be a different story.
Then you might even get away with .5 or .6.

A lot depends on the Coil type/mass.

I ran 0.35 Ohm Single Coil out of 26ga SS on a Single Battery Mech for a long time. The Hit was Fine for DL.
 
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zoiDman

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so one thing that confuses me is when Im reading the battery specs, theres a continuous discharge rating and a maximum discharge rating.

for example the sony vtc5 has:
  • Maximum Continuous Discharge Current: 20A
  • Maximum Discharge: 30A
does this mean I shouldnt go over 20amp or 30 amps?

You ONLY want to consider the Maximum Continuous Discharge Current.
 

mimöschen

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The continuous discharge rating (CDR) is a cells true rating.
You should not exceed it, if you want the best safety, performance and decent cycle life.

Sometimes there's a max amp rating mentioned in the data sheet, which means you can draw a higher ampload out of the cell without blowing up immediately, but it's always bound to a specific maximum temperature (80°C most of the time) that should never be exceeded.
In case of a malfunction or autofire this can happen a lot sooner than you'd wish and the cell can vent or even go into thermal runaway.
But even if you don't exceed the temp limit, the combounds within the cell will deteriorate very quickly, which means you have to replace the cell a lot earlier.
On top of that, cells that are pushed harder than the CDR suggests will have abyssmal performance.

So technically you can go up to the max rating, but it has a lot more drawbacks than benefits.
 
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