Is Poly-Fil The Best Material For DIY Carts?
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Please folks, don't use cigarette filters or cotton. Advice like this messes a lot of nice folks completely irrepairably up.
Hear me now. Thank me later.
Hear me now. Thank me later.
He speaks the truth. And I am going to speak the truth too...I just tried the analog filter and it takes disgusting, like sucking on the end of an unlit analog and then comes this chemical taste....like bleach8-o
Teabag was a little better than the analog but still taste the bleach..yuck
I'll vape the poly any day of the week!
It's a bit strange that you got a 'bleach' taste from a tea bag, I don't know what tea bags you used but you would get the taste in a cup of tea if they used any chemicals in the material.
Wool is best for the job, not poly or cotton.
Please read:
Fire Resistance and Cloth
Question - How and why are some cloth materials more fire-resistant than others?
-----------------
Cotton is like paper, very much not fire-resistant.
Polyester melts into candle-wax and then burns like candle-wax, also not fire-resistant.
Wool is more fire-resistant. I am not sure of the reasons,
but I think it first gives off some steam, which tries to keep it too cool to burn,
and then it melts, trying to pull back from the flames,
and then the liquid finally breaks down into combustible gasses at a rather high temperature.
One way to make cotton more resistant than usual, is to rinse it in Borate solutions,
and let it dry with some sodium borate salt left in the fibers.
When the cloth is heated by flames, the borate melts into a glass-like crust
which tries to smother the fire on the particular fiber it is clinging to.
It is not very clear how well this works, and it can be removed by repeated washing.
DuPont's Teflon (TM) and chlorinated plastics can be pretty resistant to fire.
But I think we do not get many clothes made out of those.
They would be pretty expensive.
I think "Gore-Tex" uses some, for high-priced water-repellent sporting clothes.
The center of some thick cloth could be glass fibers,
but it is so prickly that it is actually dangerous,
and must be covered over by rubber or regular cloth.
This idea only gets used in safety suits for firemen.
Silicone is a rubber that partly burns, partly turns to glass, when it is heated.
It could be pretty useful. But it is not in any of our consumer "fire-resistant clothing".
It is not clear how to make it into hard, strong fibers to weave cloth with.
I am not sure what the most popular "fire resistance" treatment is currently.
Also not sure I believe in it.
Jim Swenson
=====================================================
Please read:
Fire Resistance and Cloth
Question - How and why are some cloth materials more fire-resistant than others?
-----------------
Cotton is like paper, very much not fire-resistant.
Polyester melts into candle-wax and then burns like candle-wax, also not fire-resistant.
Wool is more fire-resistant. I am not sure of the reasons,
but I think it first gives off some steam, which tries to keep it too cool to burn,
and then it melts, trying to pull back from the flames,
and then the liquid finally breaks down into combustible gasses at a rather high temperature.
One way to make cotton more resistant than usual, is to rinse it in Borate solutions,
and let it dry with some sodium borate salt left in the fibers.
When the cloth is heated by flames, the borate melts into a glass-like crust
which tries to smother the fire on the particular fiber it is clinging to.
It is not very clear how well this works, and it can be removed by repeated washing.
DuPont's Teflon (TM) and chlorinated plastics can be pretty resistant to fire.
But I think we do not get many clothes made out of those.
They would be pretty expensive.
I think "Gore-Tex" uses some, for high-priced water-repellent sporting clothes.
The center of some thick cloth could be glass fibers,
but it is so prickly that it is actually dangerous,
and must be covered over by rubber or regular cloth.
This idea only gets used in safety suits for firemen.
Silicone is a rubber that partly burns, partly turns to glass, when it is heated.
It could be pretty useful. But it is not in any of our consumer "fire-resistant clothing".
It is not clear how to make it into hard, strong fibers to weave cloth with.
I am not sure what the most popular "fire resistance" treatment is currently.
Also not sure I believe in it.
Jim Swenson
=====================================================
The fire resistance of using paper doesn't really matter because there aren't any loose fibres that can get drawn down onto the atomizer anyway. I have never seen any signs of a coffee filter paper roll getting burnt. But if you never get the burn't plastic taste you may as well stick to fluval or something.
I think it was residual from the analog filter. At almost 100 days analog free, I taste and smell more than I would ever really like to.
I must also point out, with the Janty stick you taste everything really well. Anything off and you will notice it pretty darn quick
Whatever gives each person the most enjoyable experience...it's all good.
These were only my opinions on my experiment
I really don't know about teabags but if you go to the coffee section of your local grocery you will find "bleached" and "unbleached" filters.
Note: The bleached ones are white, the unbleached are brown.
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I really don't know about teabags but if you go to the coffee section of your local grocery you will find "bleached" and "unbleached" filters.
Interesting, I can't see how they could get away with it if there was any chance of their being any residual bleach in the paper 8-o.
My tea bags are always white so perhaps they are bleached ..but I have the brown coffee filter paper so I guess that must be the unbleached.
SurbitonPete,
I do know from talking to a Clorox customer service rep (I can't remember why) that said bleach in small concentrations with water turn to salts, even without rinsing, so I'm sure there is a process they go through to make it safe. I use the white (bleached) filters all the time and have never noticed any residual taste.
This is my first post. As my username states, I am on the e-cig train (not only for my health, but also) for economical reasons. Thus, this thread is especially interesting to me. After gaining info from this thread, I successfully made my very own coffee filter upon my very first attempt.
I am very satisfied. When dripped properly, this filter is better than Janty's stock filter bedding in terms of taste, vapor, and (I think, though I'm not sure yet), liquid capacity. I now have about a year's supply of carts, so long as the plastic casing holds up, and it seems as though my cart expense has been reduced to an annual fee of under 2 dollars. In light of this, I present to you my gear and methodology:
Janty Stick
Janty Classic Atomizer
Janty Kissbox Cart
Janty Liquid - French Pipe Tobacco - Low (I ordered high, damnit)
Stop & Shop Coffee Filters Basket Style Natural (brown, unbleached)
Price: $1.59
Size: fits 8-12 cup
1. Flatten the coffee filter onto a flat surface.
2. Begin rolling the coffee filter at the edge of the circle. No need to try to get a perfect spiral - I flattened, then folded in half, the initial roll twice until it was big enough to roll with ease. No need to be perfectly tight, either - just decently tight, since you're going to do a bit of untightening later on, anyway
3. Roll the filter into a roll. That's right, the whole thing.
4. Make a "T" with your scissors and the roll and cut your roll in half (scissors are the vertical part, roll is the horizontal part). The center is naturally going to be the thickest part. Keep one half tight, and save one half for another filter. I stuck one half between my lips, and the other half somewhere on my desk for later.
5. Remove the stock bedding of your cart. If your bedding tapers, take note, as your new filter tapers, too.
6. Cut your new filter to the exact length of your stock filter.
7. Insert your new filter into the empty cart with the thick side pointed toward the atomizer. You'll notice it's too loose! Good! Now, you can gauge how much you need to unroll, then more loosely re-roll, so that the filter softly fits against the inside of your cart. Try to keep the core as tight as you rolled it, as it will expand with liquid and heat.
8. Drip. Remember how a fresh stock cart looks like jelly? That's because the cart is filled to the brim with liquid. But remember, your coffee filter absorbs more, and thus the juice takes more time to reach the bottom. You'll need to fill to the brim, let it absorb, then fill again, and if you're patient, you can even brim a third time. You might see a few air bubbles as the liquid travels downward.
Maintenance:
After several hours of use, the center of the roll recessed, leaving a bit of paper-thin edge of the filter closest to the heating element. While the edge did not burn, I could taste something wrong. All I needed to do was push the edge down (I used a push-pin), rejoining the edge with the rest of the filter. Unless fixed properly, this problem will reoccur. Preventive rolling methods might resolve this problem, and I will report back. It doesn't seem to be a very serious issue, however.
Now, all I need are a few more atomizers, batteries, and bottles of juice to keep me going for a year. Cheers!
I am very satisfied. When dripped properly, this filter is better than Janty's stock filter bedding in terms of taste, vapor, and (I think, though I'm not sure yet), liquid capacity. I now have about a year's supply of carts, so long as the plastic casing holds up, and it seems as though my cart expense has been reduced to an annual fee of under 2 dollars. In light of this, I present to you my gear and methodology:
Janty Stick
Janty Classic Atomizer
Janty Kissbox Cart
Janty Liquid - French Pipe Tobacco - Low (I ordered high, damnit)
Stop & Shop Coffee Filters Basket Style Natural (brown, unbleached)
Price: $1.59
Size: fits 8-12 cup
1. Flatten the coffee filter onto a flat surface.
2. Begin rolling the coffee filter at the edge of the circle. No need to try to get a perfect spiral - I flattened, then folded in half, the initial roll twice until it was big enough to roll with ease. No need to be perfectly tight, either - just decently tight, since you're going to do a bit of untightening later on, anyway
3. Roll the filter into a roll. That's right, the whole thing.
4. Make a "T" with your scissors and the roll and cut your roll in half (scissors are the vertical part, roll is the horizontal part). The center is naturally going to be the thickest part. Keep one half tight, and save one half for another filter. I stuck one half between my lips, and the other half somewhere on my desk for later.
5. Remove the stock bedding of your cart. If your bedding tapers, take note, as your new filter tapers, too.
6. Cut your new filter to the exact length of your stock filter.
7. Insert your new filter into the empty cart with the thick side pointed toward the atomizer. You'll notice it's too loose! Good! Now, you can gauge how much you need to unroll, then more loosely re-roll, so that the filter softly fits against the inside of your cart. Try to keep the core as tight as you rolled it, as it will expand with liquid and heat.
8. Drip. Remember how a fresh stock cart looks like jelly? That's because the cart is filled to the brim with liquid. But remember, your coffee filter absorbs more, and thus the juice takes more time to reach the bottom. You'll need to fill to the brim, let it absorb, then fill again, and if you're patient, you can even brim a third time. You might see a few air bubbles as the liquid travels downward.
Maintenance:
After several hours of use, the center of the roll recessed, leaving a bit of paper-thin edge of the filter closest to the heating element. While the edge did not burn, I could taste something wrong. All I needed to do was push the edge down (I used a push-pin), rejoining the edge with the rest of the filter. Unless fixed properly, this problem will reoccur. Preventive rolling methods might resolve this problem, and I will report back. It doesn't seem to be a very serious issue, however.
Now, all I need are a few more atomizers, batteries, and bottles of juice to keep me going for a year. Cheers!
I wonder how this "Tar Bar" contraption would work.
Buy Tar Bar Cigarette Filters for $5.99
Buy Tar Bar Cigarette Filters for $5.99
My experience with Polyfil is absolutely great! It's weird to me when I read about stuffing sticking to atoms, vaporizing poly, etc...because I honestly suffer none of those calamities. Granted, I watched Terraphon's cart building seminar, and it's got everything you need to know about making the perfect stuffing. Wallyworld greenbag 3 bucks. A lifetime of vaping happily forever.
As a side note...I am quite positive that a couple thousand chinese stuffed these carts in trials for a long time to find the best stuffing for these things. They have teabags out the yingyang, but what do they use? Polyfil. It works, and works extremely well *IF* you can master the craft of stuffage. Just MHO.
do you have a link to that tutorial by Terraphon?
thanks!
wait, this is it, right? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-stuffing-m-401-carts-up-close-personal.html
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