VW is hard. I just want to press the button a couple times & adjust the voltage up or down a tenth or 2 if it's not tasting quite right. Then press the button a couple more times because it's fun & the led's are pretty.
AND what HE said ^
Is there a Variable Wattage ProVari in the works????!!!
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AND what HE said ^
Gee thanks gang. I, who typically vape at 3.8, read this post and went "why the heck not" and turned my Lambo with it's PT2 and 2.4 ohm coil up to 4.4. That's the closest I've ever gotten to an ecig tasting like a cigarette, EVAR! 1) My provari simply can't get here soon enough, and 2) I'm definitely not cut out for higher volt vaping, or my equipment isn't.
It's the PT2...it must not like the current getting closer to 2 amps.
Damn, I need to make a mod that has a built-in Ohm's Law calculator.
Gee thanks gang. I, who typically vape at 3.8, read this post and went "why the heck not" and turned my Lambo with it's PT2 and 2.4 ohm coil up to 4.4. That's the closest I've ever gotten to an ecig tasting like a cigarette, EVAR! 1) My provari simply can't get here soon enough, and 2) I'm definitely not cut out for higher volt vaping, or my equipment isn't.
all my BCC tanks and flavors are always at 3.8. I recently got a carto and start moving up a little, to me the taste isn't there. So I still sit at 3.8 lol..
What a great tip. I will switch my itaste vv3 to variable voltage and see what happens. And I do agree that A .5 watts adjustment is a course adjustment.
That rule of thumb, I will have to keep in mind. If it works for me, Provari it is.
Thanks all. I need to save up some cash. That shouldn't take too long seeing how much I saved on smoking. Then my itaste vv3's will become backups.
[UPDATE] I tried the rule of thumb above and for my mini protank2's it drives them too hot. I get a warm vape but a real burnt taste with my juices. For me, Ohms plus 1.5 volts works for me.
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I have an Ohm's Law calculator app for my phone. For cartos on my S-Zmax, I use VV. On my mech mod with self-wrapped coils, I have a Kick2 so that means I have to use VW. The app is very helpful and takes all the guesswork out of setting both VV and VW.
That "+2" is just to give you a starting point - and the starting point is 8 watts. It's an easy to remember example, not a rule. I rarely like anything at 8 watts, so I start it lower. As others have posted BCCs, especially Protanks don't seem to perform well at higher temps. If you look at the card Kanger enclosed in the box it has voltage suggestions for the different heads. When I saw it, I thought it was low, but it has turned out to be accurate.
Instructions?!? We don't need no stinkin instructions!
Thanks Oci, I actually didn't see that, just threw the PT together and set it at my normal voltage, which happened to be in the correct range.
On a side note, when I ordered some more heads for the PT I also added some for the Aro after someone on the forums mentioned that they liked them better. I've got to say that so far they perform quite a bit better. With the PT coil I had to remove the bottom silicone ring for contact with the Lambo and the cap off the coil to get decent wicking. I didn't have to do either with the Aro coil, and both the vapor and flavor are better. The draw however is a bit tighter than the Kanger coils, but I'm used to that after using Vivis for awhile.
It's not really all that hard and I believe even the non-mathy folks can get it just fine. The equation is watts equals volts squared divided by ohms. The ohms are determined by the coil/topper you are using, so all your doing is changing one of the other variables. If you change volts, the device will change the watts and if you change the watts the device will change the volts. The reason that the 0.5 increments of watts is not really that different than the 0.1 increments of volts, is that the volts are squared and the watts are not. The reason some people find VW slightly more convenient is that the goal is watts. If you change your topper in VW, the device changes the volts to get back to your set watts. On a VV device when you change your topper, you'll need to adjust the volts to get back to the same wattage. This is because you have set the volts and the device is changing the watts. With both systems you may need to tweak depending on the juice/topper/etc. It's just that the VW gets you back to the starting watts when you change to a topper with a different resistance (ohms). But either system should work just fine.
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Exactly. Unless VW is analyzing the PG/VG ratio, viscosity, sweetness and flavors of a juice, I'm not sure how it would be of any benefit. All of my juices are different, so I may need to go up or down .1v or more, even when using the same ohm coils.
So I did some math...
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.69042V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.80625V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.91935V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.02991V
If I round the voltages to the nearest tenth, I get:
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.7V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.8V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.9V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.0V
See the pattern in the increments? VW has a massive benefit because it allows for an even finer adjustment of voltage. IMO, all the devices that allow for VW by 0.1W increments should have an additional button that shouts "Quod Erat Demonstrandum!" It's simply a different approach to achieve the same thing.
C'mon people, we're all vapers here...we should all be more open-minded to things if we expect non-smokers & non-vapers to be more open minded towards us.
Now that I've gotten that off my chest, I vow never to partake in a VV vs VW debate again. Back to stalking my Inbox and SPAM folder for ProVape's shipment notification e-mail.
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.69042V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.80625V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.91935V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.02991V
If I round the voltages to the nearest tenth, I get:
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.7V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.8V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.9V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.0V
See the pattern in the increments? VW has a massive benefit because it allows for an even finer adjustment of voltage. IMO, all the devices that allow for VW by 0.1W increments should have an additional button that shouts "Quod Erat Demonstrandum!"
It's simply a different approach to achieve the same thing.C'mon people, we're all vapers here...we should all be more open-minded to things if we expect non-smokers & non-vapers to be more open minded towards us.
Now that I've gotten that off my chest, I vow never to partake in a VV vs VW debate again. Back to stalking my Inbox and SPAM folder for ProVape's shipment notification e-mail.
I thought the increments in most, if not all, APVs were 0.1 for volts and 0.5 for watts. If that's the case, at 2.2Ω from 10W-11.5W, a change of 0.1V is approximately equal to a change of 0.5W (to the nearest tenth). Anyway, I guess I didn't know there was a debate. 
No offense to anyone, but I think it's more of a lack of understanding.
No offense to anyone, but I think it's more of a lack of understanding.
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Thanks for the info.
I did not mean to start an argument.
I understand if you swap flavors between your tanks, then VW really doesn't make a difference. If all your coils are self built and are the same ohms, it doesn't make a difference.
However, I rotate several tanks. Two of which have my all day vape and one an "alternate flavor". My three heads vary between 2.4 ohms to 2.9 ohms. Variable wattage is nice for me because I set 6.5 watts and I don't have to adjust any further. I like 6.5 watts for the protank II mini because at 7.0 watts I begin to taste some cooking of the juice.
I understand it's a different approach to get to the same thing. I just appreciate that with Variable wattage and three tanks in rotation I have to "tinker" with the wattage 1/3 as many times as I would need to do with variable voltage.
I did not mean to start an argument.
I understand if you swap flavors between your tanks, then VW really doesn't make a difference. If all your coils are self built and are the same ohms, it doesn't make a difference.
However, I rotate several tanks. Two of which have my all day vape and one an "alternate flavor". My three heads vary between 2.4 ohms to 2.9 ohms. Variable wattage is nice for me because I set 6.5 watts and I don't have to adjust any further. I like 6.5 watts for the protank II mini because at 7.0 watts I begin to taste some cooking of the juice.
I understand it's a different approach to get to the same thing. I just appreciate that with Variable wattage and three tanks in rotation I have to "tinker" with the wattage 1/3 as many times as I would need to do with variable voltage.
So I did some math...
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.69042V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.80625V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.91935V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.02991V
If I round the voltages to the nearest tenth, I get:
2.2Ω coil @ 10.0W = 4.7V
2.2Ω coil @ 10.5W = 4.8V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.0W = 4.9V
2.2Ω coil @ 11.5W = 5.0V
See the pattern in the increments? VW has a massive benefit because it allows for an even finer adjustment of voltage. IMO, all the devices that allow for VW by 0.1W increments should have an additional button that shouts "Quod Erat Demonstrandum!"
C'mon people, we're all vapers here...we should all be more open-minded to things if we expect non-smokers & non-vapers to be more open minded towards us.
Now that I've gotten that off my chest, I vow never to partake in a VV vs VW debate again. Back to stalking my Inbox and SPAM folder for ProVape's shipment notification e-mail.
Don't you mean "VV" or do I need to make coffee and read it again?
I thought the increments in most, if not all, APVs were 0.1 for volts and 0.5 for watts. If that's the case, at 2.2Ω from 10W-11.5W, a change of 0.1V is approximately equal to a change of 0.5W (to the nearest tenth). Anyway, I guess I didn't know there was a debate.
As far as I know, you're correct about the increments. VV by .1 (unless you're using a Twist or Spinner, then it's .2, but they aren't very accurate anyway) and VW by .5, at least that's what my Vamo and Bobo (Sigelei Zmax) are.
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You didn't start an argument. If you own a ProVari you are faced with this debate at least once a week. We're just honing our skills.
The bottom-line is that VV and VW are different methods to get to the same place. The best one is the one you like.
No, I meant VW...but the context got mixed up in my edits. There should be a sentence about potential for more adjustability from 0.1W...
Or something like that. I'd have to do more math to show it, but can't right now because I'm refreshing my e-mail all neurotic-like.
Or something like that. I'd have to do more math to show it, but can't right now because I'm refreshing my e-mail all neurotic-like.
The only way you wouldn't have to tinker with VW as much is if you know for sure that all of your flavors taste the way you like at 6.5W.. You may like one of your flavors at 6W and the other 2 at 7W or whatever. So every time you swap tanks you will have to adjust it anyway. Much like if it was VV. The only difference is pretty much changing a V or a W. That is just my opinion
I had the same hesitation before I got my Provari because I was used to VW. I also thought I would never get into rebuilding but yeah that didn't take long... I rebuild my protank heads at 1.5-1.8 ohms with cotton wicks and I push them at 4.2V which puts me around the 11W range and they hit like a beast! The only downside is that I burn through juice so fast these days
You wouldn't know how terrible the stock coils are until you rebuild one. At the very least you can replace the silica with cotton for better flavor. I have my Davide BCCs producing vapor that competes with one of my single coil builds on my rda. I love it!
No, I meant VW...but the context got mixed up in my edits. There should be a sentence about potential for more adjustability from 0.1W...
Or something like that. I'd have to do more math to show it, but can't right now because I'm refreshing my e-mail all neurotic-like.
You must have a different equation than I do. I'm using the square root of watts x resistance = volts. The factors are all interdependent. If VW had the circuitry to be adjusted in .1 increments, the same device would have to be wired to produce very tiny increments of voltage. Let's forget about sub-ohm and move toward negative numbers. I want V∏ dang it!
But seriously, I often can't taste the difference between 7.1v and 7.2v, so I'm sure I wouldn't be able to tell the difference in the voltage increments illustrated below. 
√7.0w x 2.0Ω = 3.74v (rounded 3.7)
√7.1w x 2.0Ω = 3.76v (rounded 3.8)
√7.2w x 2.0Ω = 3.79v (rounded 3.8)
√7.3w x 2.0Ω = 3.82v (rounded 3.8)
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