Is There An RTA That Doesn't Leak?
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Sorry, but I have to disagree. On my Kayfun mini v3, unless I do something extreme, it doesn't much matter how you I wick it. If your tank doesn't have a good seal and you're trying to control juice flow with the wick, then it becomes finicky. If I have a good seal, then it won't leak even if I don't put a wick in it!
My Aspire equipment never leaks.
Have:
K1's
K3's
Atlantis Mega
Triton mini's
My OBS Nano's don't leak either.
Have:
K1's
K3's
Atlantis Mega
Triton mini's
My OBS Nano's don't leak either.
Exactly... Its the wicking that makes or breaks the atty. I have used only a handful of stock heads in my attys over the last 4 years. I either revamped the stock coil or rebuilt them. Back from the original CE4 clearos that were my first go at revamping then rebuilding, thats when I realized the difference between the stock silica wicking and the silica I bought.
I'll bypass the clearos since they were just crappy but didn't leak
Evods, T3s...once I rebuilt the coils and used my silica with strategically placed flavor wicks, they never leaked.
Protanks..my wife and I vaped them for 2 years. I really got into rebuilding first with silica wick, then a brief period with cotton and finally hemp fiber...they never leaked.
Kayfuns... Using hemp fiber then rayon, there is a technique to wicking these and once mastered they have never leaked.
TFV4...The only atty I have that leaked and frustrated me so much I shelved them. The TFV4 RBAs are finicky to wick and not have random dumping of the tank. It was eons later I revisited them using thinning of the tails and now they haven't leaked since I got the wicking right.
Merlin...this monster just seeps but it too needs the bulk of the tails thinned to fit inside the small juice well and it has never leaked.
Kanger Subtank Mini....Use the RBA for 2 years now and my wife and I haven't had any leaking. They can sit for days on a stand or laying down...not a drop leaked. Rayon too is IMO key to wicking, cotton can't match rayon in so many levels.
Even with cotton and of course rayon its the amount of bulk and density of the tails compared to the well or channel you have to put that tail into, too much tail bulk and the atty either chokes or leaks. This is especially true with rayon since it acts the opposite to how cotton acts in a atty so too much rayon tail bulk will choke the coil(less is better) and once you found that sweet spot in the amount of tail needed then dryhits are a thing of the past. Lots to read about rayon in the rayon thread so I don't need to explain.
Any monkey can coil some wire and stick it inside a atty but the real skill is in the wicking it so it doesn't leak. If your planning on being a plug and play vaper using factory stock heads then I will guarantee that your in for a rough ride with leaking and inconsistency.
Thinning of the tails...take a pin, tweezers or anything pointy and comb through the tail removing bulk but not any fiber from inside the coil then cutting the pulled fiber away. This is a absolute especially if your using a large ID coil when massive amounts of wicking is used to pack the coil leaving thick bulky tails that your trying to pack into a small well or channel that does cause the problems later on.
Sorry, but how would that work? Any liquid in the tank would go straight into the chamber and out the air holes.
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I'm currently testing Drago egyptian cotton in one of my Nanos. Enjoying it so far. Loves juice and keeping up great with 80vg on on a tri core fc from AVS.
I think some tanks are worse than others for leaking. And, I do think the right wicking is going to make a huge difference. I'm not very good at that yet, and for me, it's more difficult than coil building. Some tanks are leakers, some aren't, and it does depend on the design, as well. I have a doggystyle which I really thought I got right, coiling and wicking, but when I went to use it, I found I must have either not screwed the coil down tight enough, or the coil broke when I wicked it. It's been a) sitting completely upside down in its little box with juice in it b) skittered across the room when I was trying to take it apart and couldn't and c) has not leaked a drop.
I'm not saying this is a phenomenal outcome or anything, I'm just saying that particular tank is NOT a leaker, and I DO NOT believe that it's my perfect wick that's stopping that from happening. It's the way it's designed, I think, more than anything.
I'd love to give advice on other, more leakproof RTAs, but I have one working (the Coppervape Hussar clone) the Doggystyle (that I really do want to try using) and a couple others that I've not gotten down completely yet. My fine tremor doesn't help here, but there are RTAs that don't seem to want to leak as much. I am not sure if the seals are doing it, whether it's a top airflow vs bottom, or anything else, other than some RTAs that don't seem to make it their MISSION not to leak, and investigating those is a good thing. I do think the right wicking will cause less leakage/seeping in the ones that want to. While it may SEEM a piece of cotton may not do much, keep in mind that cotton balls are used for other leaks (for example, when giving blood) with the correct PRESSURE. That's sort of how a wick works, to put it in the most unscientific of terms, I'd say.
Anna
I'm not saying this is a phenomenal outcome or anything, I'm just saying that particular tank is NOT a leaker, and I DO NOT believe that it's my perfect wick that's stopping that from happening. It's the way it's designed, I think, more than anything.
I'd love to give advice on other, more leakproof RTAs, but I have one working (the Coppervape Hussar clone) the Doggystyle (that I really do want to try using) and a couple others that I've not gotten down completely yet. My fine tremor doesn't help here, but there are RTAs that don't seem to want to leak as much. I am not sure if the seals are doing it, whether it's a top airflow vs bottom, or anything else, other than some RTAs that don't seem to make it their MISSION not to leak, and investigating those is a good thing. I do think the right wicking will cause less leakage/seeping in the ones that want to. While it may SEEM a piece of cotton may not do much, keep in mind that cotton balls are used for other leaks (for example, when giving blood) with the correct PRESSURE. That's sort of how a wick works, to put it in the most unscientific of terms, I'd say.
Anna
Have it on pre order already. Looking forward to trying it out.
I've moved more to the OBS Nano because it is leak proof and so damn easy to build. I don't do pre-order but when the Zeus is released I'll have to pick one up to see if it compares to the OBS.
The innovations on the less expensive tanks is a welcome addition to vaping. I have in the past bought high end tanks and own my fair share but lately I ask myself why spend the money. While the SMM weeps a little liquid and the OBS is damn near perfect why spend the extra money to get as good, if not a better vape for $150 less. Time will tell if the OBS will hold up to being used every day but it really is a damn near perfect tank. If the Zeus is as good and really doesn't leak and produces the same flavor then folks building inexpensive tanks are going to dominate the market.
The innovations on the less expensive tanks is a welcome addition to vaping. I have in the past bought high end tanks and own my fair share but lately I ask myself why spend the money. While the SMM weeps a little liquid and the OBS is damn near perfect why spend the extra money to get as good, if not a better vape for $150 less. Time will tell if the OBS will hold up to being used every day but it really is a damn near perfect tank. If the Zeus is as good and really doesn't leak and produces the same flavor then folks building inexpensive tanks are going to dominate the market.
Got one of the OBS nanos from fasttech. Great deal indeed for $23 and no leaking. The Zeus is also available on pre-order at fasttech for $26 with their MAP coupon. Coppervape skyline clone is great too and $19.
There are lots of good RTAs that are inexpensive. I really like the OBS but only have a couple mods that take larger than 22 mm tanks without overhang.
There are lots of good RTAs that are inexpensive. I really like the OBS but only have a couple mods that take larger than 22 mm tanks without overhang.
No, the vacuum (negative pressure) in the tank holds the liquid in. That's why you have to close the juice control when you fill it. Once the top is back on, it stays in by itself. You don't even have to have the deck on it (Just don't lay it on its side). The only thing you can do wrong with the wicking is to block the channels. Other than that, all the wick does is deliver the juice to the coil. A sealed tank and the bernoulli effect take care of the juice flow.
But surely the wick is part of the function of that. I've had plenty of atties leaking when the wicking wasn't good. Fixed with proper wicking, no o-rings have ever needed changing (yes, I've been lucky). Bottom coil tanks work on the principle of negative pressure so the Kayfuns are not unique in that regard (and I've had kayfuns leaking), and most people have trouble with leakage now and then with fully functional o-rings. Have you actually tried this? No wick, juice flow open, tank filled.
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Too little wick and no wick.....will result in leaking with most tanks it will run thru the wick channels and into the mod.
Vacuum does help control but take a Kangertank, a skyline clone and many other tanks with no wick and see what happens with leaking. There may be some designs that won't leak but most will under the circumstance on not having a wick
Vacuum does help control but take a Kangertank, a skyline clone and many other tanks with no wick and see what happens with leaking. There may be some designs that won't leak but most will under the circumstance on not having a wick
I got some first hand experience with that today. Evidently I did a poor job of wicking my smm. Most of the liquid came out the air holes.
Couldn't agree more. Use my Nano 16+ hours a day for the past few months. NEVER leaks. EASY to build. Affordable. Takes just a few minutes to coil and wick, and like I mentioned elsewhere, it takes longer to get out my tools than it does to do the rewick.
I can't afford to try every new thing. When I find something that works, I stick with it.
Wicking will help prevent leaking if the Kayfun has a poor seal or is a badly designed clone. It's finicky and subject to the viscosity of the liquid at the time, but you can get it to work. It's like putting a screw into a hole in your tire. It works.........sometimes........kind of. But it's not reliable. Will a liquid as thin as water stay in the tank with no wick and even no deck!!??? Take a look
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