Catanddog where did you get the Gus22? That is my first choice after learning the wait on the GGStealth was 7-8 months. The description says "hot spring" so won't that be a voltage drop point??
Last edited:
iSeason Mechanical Mod -- Adam clone w/brass contacts
- Thread starter StaircaseWit
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Catanddog where did you get the Gus22? That is my first choice after learning the wait on the GGStealth was 7-8 months. The description says "hot spring" so won't that be a voltage drop point??
First off, the G22 I got has an upgraded + pin, the hot spring was eliminated and replaced with a solid brass contact.
Secondly, I got my iseason and just spent the last 2 hours figuring out how to remove the spring...I DID IT!!! I had to really mod this and am VERY fortunate to have a jewelry background and tools. Here's a pic...Not pretty but what i did was get a brass screw and I had to make 3 washers to space it just perfectly to fit my panasonic batteries. the washers (well 2 of them) are made of brass and one is made of copper. it's ugly, but NOW this thing rips. before it was pitiful, now it really does hit quite well if i may say so myself. It's a pain in the @$$ to do what i just did, the screw does not fit right or thread in but all it needs to do is make contact with the brass piece in the end cap. Also, i drilled down the center of the screw/bolt so the venting stays how it was originally designed, I am going to go to a machine shop and have them drill top vent holes, or just go to lowes and get a carbide cut off wheel and make a slot. Luckily this mod was only $60 shipped for me, i would not have been happy if it was much more for the amount of frustration and work i have into it. Let me know if you have any questions.
And here's my out of the house/beater/i don't give no F words about MOD lol
-TCAD
Last edited:
Wow. Drilling down the center of a screw.... Tip of the hat, catanddog, good skills, good mod!
Thank you, i came to the idea of the screw and then i was like OH SHOOOTT, how is it gunna vent? So i knew i had to drill down the screw and it seems to be pretty ok but i will still cut a slot in the top for proper top venting. To do what i did with the screw, I started with a 1mm HSS (high speed stainless) bit, then widened it with a larger bit, it's really not terrible once you figure out what it is you're trying to accomplish. I highly recommend doing this to whoever owns an iSeason out there. Honestly now that i've done this, there's no battery rattle, and it really does feel and hit nice. It's a great MOD to just not care about but still use and love.
It doesn't seem too much longer than most.
also some of my IGO L's done make connection so I made a 5mm round disc spacer out of copper, i made them in various thicknesses and if anyone needs any i would be more than happy to send you some for free, just PM me. The IGO L with this device (especially with the brushed IGO L) looks awesome. truly a great little beater.
Uploading a video of a few points to note if you want to do this. will post shortly.
-TCAD
Last edited:
camera died before i could just show some copper sheet, but it's a fairly easy thing to do, hard to get right, if that makes sense. I wouldn't use this thing with the stock spring ever...it's horrrible, it really is.
now it's time to redo this switch...magnetic anyone...?
I'm in the co-op for the iseason and I don't want to have to mod mine out with screws and such. I don't have the tools to do that and I don't mind springs in my mods. Do you think replacing the spring with a flat edge brass compression spring would be adequate to make the iseason hit like it should?
that i'm not sure about. i just know the reason i hate springs is cause they wear out over time, the solid contact i made just needs cleaning and will last a lifetime.
Yes, it makes quite a difference in the voltage drop to use a brass spring. Just get one that bottoms out in the spring tube if possible, because that makes better contact. You won't get as low a voltage drop as you can with direct solid brass contact, but most mods aren't designed for that anyway. They're designed to be flexible with different battery types and to have some flexibility they use springs, much like flashlights. Get a long enough spring and you can still have flexibility with button-top or flat batteries.
Honestly when I did my "seat-of-the-pants" comparison a few pages ago, the vape seemed fine with the spring. It's only when you start measuring the numbers and realizing the drop exists (and it also depends pretty heavily on what battery and coil and RBA/device you're using on it) that you worry about modding it. I'd imagine most people will be pretty happy using it right out of the box. I was until I broke out the multi-meter.
Thanks for the responses. I was considering dropping out of the co-op but will stay in and give it a try.
Nice modding catanddog! I wish you'd found a screw that fits directly in the threads (I tried again today -- nothing fits that I can find), but that's a pretty nicely done job with the hole down the screw for venting.
I also like your idea on the last page (I must have missed it the first time) for a copper/brass tube over the spring tube. Now I need to get back to the hardware store...3/8" ID brass pipe is common, and the ID is nominal, meaning it's usually slightly over-size, which it needs to be to fit.
I also like your idea on the last page (I must have missed it the first time) for a copper/brass tube over the spring tube. Now I need to get back to the hardware store...3/8" ID brass pipe is common, and the ID is nominal, meaning it's usually slightly over-size, which it needs to be to fit.
Look at it this way: it's the same as the Natural out of the box. By the time a bunch of people have these we'll have the mods down and hopefully it will be a simple matter to make it have as small a voltage drop as possible. With the modification I'm using, it's as good as a luxury mod as far as voltage drop.
But I don't want to encourage you to buy something you're not comfortable with. I have no dog in this race. I just think it's a nicely-build device with a great switch.
I guess I was looking for reassurance that a] it would be okay out of the box, or b] I could do an easy fix on it. I'm gonna get it and keep reading here to see if you guys come up with an easier fix than the screw.
If you don't vape super-low-resistance coils, it will be fine out of the box, just like most of these Chinese mods. If you do SLR, it'll require some mods to perform at its best. I think you'll be happy with it. I was vaping away happily until I started measuring, and so was JuniorNA who did a similar seat-of-the-pants test a few pages back, comparing it directly with a Provari at battery voltage.
Last edited:
I dont use LR anymore. I mostly vape at 5V with a 3.0 carto. When I do use my 3.7V I still use my SR cartos, so I should be fine. Thanks!
Staircasewit is right if you're not using SLR coils or even LR coils you probably will be ok. I just can't have springs in my mods. Im currently running a .8ohm coil and a spring just isn't good for that. Also, springs are a weak link in most any mechanical mod. they wear out and need to be replaced, i hate finding replacement stuff. i prefer to have a solid contact, easy to clean, easy to replace and better contact, not to mention NO RATTLE. it's a solid device for the price. I too am in that co op. i picked this up off the classies for $60 shipped, had i not been able to do the mod i did i would have dropped the co op but this device has potential and it just needs a little tweaking. next is some copper rings that sit flush with the device...i love coper/brass and having a jewelry background they should be easy to make.
My experience with things so far is that if it works right out of the box there is something much more deeply flawed with it. Something that is unexpected and irreversible. I've had eGo-Twists fall half a foot brand new and just die right then and there and had a friend with a Vamo (don't get me wrong here, I LOVE MY VAMO) drop it less than two feet and it crap out. If it works right out of the box its either custom crafted to something and works extremely well with that and then you run into problems using other things or it needs slight/simple modifications.
Lets be honest by time the spring wears out you probably won't have the mod or if you do you'll be on to the next mod and this will be collecting dust
And by sanding the contacts of the spring you should have the same results as removing the spring.
nope, the spring is steel, the contacts of brass will be much more conductive and really make a hgue difference. Maybe findng a copper or brass spring would be better IMO. not to mention the shape of the spring doesn't make great contact with the battery, spacing the contact point out especially with a higher conductive metal makes a lot of difference. also takes away the battery rattle that is normally there with the spring. Just my .02
- Status
Similar threads
