Ithaka official

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Sfera72

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cookiejar: That's right. You must take 2 pieces NR and one piece R wire. On both sides of the R wire you have to drill the NR wire. Now you must drill the R wire around the wick. Take 2 pieces of wick, because you have 4 channel. The NR wire is not to drill on the wick. Put the wick with the R wire onto the ceramic and connect both NR wire to the poles. One to the - pole and one to the + pole. Lay the wick into the channel. Be sure, that the wire in the ceramic channel is not seen, otherwise you can have a short circuit. If you press the power button, the whole R wire should glow.

tomas: I have the samr problem. It works, but I can't use Ithaka on GGTS and ProVari with the same adjustment. If I want Ithaka on ProVari, I have to screw the housing deeper. So I have a Ithaka for GGTS and another one for ProVari. :)
 
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cookiejar

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cookiejar: That's right. You must take 2 pieces NR and one piece R wire. On both sides of the R wire you have to drill the NR wire. Now you must drill the R wire around the wick. Take 2 pieces of wick, because you have 4 channel. The NR wire is not to drill on the wick. Put the wick with the R wire onto the ceramic and connect both NR wire to the poles. One to the - pole and one to the + pole. Lay the wick into the channel. Be sure, that the wire in the ceramic channel is not seen, otherwise you can have a short circuit. If you press the power button, the whole R wire should glow.

It would be nice if you have any video for demonstration. Just to make sure I have a good imagination :))
 

imeothanasis

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it really has fun justin. I play with it almost every day, except the 2 last weeks that I am trying to see how much the coil will stay in perfect contition
Yup that happens when I unscrew and screw back in to mod. Not really an issue.

Crazy this Ithaka I keep on rebuilding new wick/wire combinations as experiment even if current set up is already vaping great. I wish I had a bunch of Ithakas to build! :D
 

imeothanasis

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Tomas, you unscrew brass pin out of 510 threads by 1-2 mm. You screw Ithaka on your mod and doesnt make a connection? Thats impossible. Sorry that I say that but when you screw Ithaka on your mod, the center pin starts screwing by itself because it touches the center pole of your mod. Its not possible to lose contact after that
Adjustable contact pin is pain for me as well. I have to unscrew the contact about 2mm out and then screw on Provari to get connection. And I don't have this connection everytime, sometimes needs 2-3 repeats to get it. I fixed that issue with piece of plumber's teflon tape on top of the contact thread. Adjustable contact is moving tight now and it's easier to get connection now.
 

imeothanasis

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imeothanasis

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of course not aal. This o-ring was there to keep a little better the basic feeding in place when you totally screw it on base. But adjusting the basic feeding and putting it in a higher level, this o-ring has no meaning. In reality this o-ring has no meaning even if basic feeding is totally screwed but I put it there just to make the screwing a little more smoother.

If your basic feeding grids at the end of its screwing, just put a little vaseline on its lower threads. It nothing at all. Its a very small piece of metal remained from machining prossedure. It will leave after some use of Ithaka

If you still want this o-ring, then you can ask your seller to send you one for free together with your next purchase of something else maybe:)
 

Cloud Wizard

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Out of curiosity, on both my Ody's and Pennie's I close the juice feeder if not vaping for a while to keep from over wicking/leaking. From all the setup vids it looks like the base feeder on Ithaka needs to be set during build (not adjustable with a full tank). Will it continue to feed even if not vaping (like sitting over night)?
 

Aal_

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of course not aal. This o-ring was there to keep a little better the basic feeding in place when you totally screw it on base. But adjusting the basic feeding and putting it in a higher level, this o-ring has no meaning. In reality this o-ring has no meaning even if basic feeding is totally screwed but I put it there just to make the screwing a little more smoother.

If your basic feeding grids at the end of its screwing, just put a little vaseline on its lower threads. It nothing at all. Its a very small piece of metal remained from machining prossedure. It will leave after some use of Ithaka

If you still want this o-ring, then you can ask your seller to send you one for free together with your next purchase of something else maybe:)

Thanks imeo, good to know. However I cannot leave the basic feeding higher because I want the maximum heat. If I put it higher, then I have to put the rebuildable part higher, and then the oring on the post will not make the best seal and it might leak. Am I correct in my reasoning?
 
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