Ithaka official

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Lex0r

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so for the nr wire, are you guys matching the gauge to your r wire, doing something else, or is the size completely irrelevant? also, silver vs nickel, what are you using and where are you getting your silver?

The most common NR wire is 30 gauge. Sizes of NR vs R are irrelevant. Many people use silver NR wire, which is a better conductor, but many people also use nickel. The choice is yours, with the variety being part of the beauty of rebuilding :)

As far as ordering wire, I'd stay away from e-cig vendors just for wire, unless you are making a large order and just want to add some on. I get my .999 silver wire here
 

bfrie

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The most common NR wire is 30 gauge. Sizes of NR vs R are irrelevant. Many people use silver NR wire, which is a better conductor, but many people also use nickel. The choice is yours, with the variety being part of the beauty of rebuilding :)

As far as ordering wire, I'd stay away from e-cig vendors just for wire, unless you are making a large order and just want to add some on. I get my .999 silver wire here

many thanks for keeping it simple and answering my question instead of stating "its all what you prefer i cant answer that"
 

imeothanasis

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Today I made a single wire on Ithaca. I removed 3 strands of a 3mm wick so I had in my hands a 1,5mm fat wick. I put 2 wicks 1,5mm side by side and a wire around them. I put the edges of wick inside channels. I noticed that Ithaca vaped excellent even if the wick was 1,5mm each. I did this 3 times today and Ithaca vapes wonderful. Finally Ithaca vapes as usual even if we put very thin wick inside channels and maybe better because we can make more coils around thinner wicks.

The reason is the center post top nut. I changed the standard one with the new one that I made and not only I don't have a noise like gurgling but this nut allows Ithaca to vape under any size of wick.

Thats my results until now. I will continue the tests but I am now sure that the center post top nut was the reason for the noise issue and the gurgling from time to time. By changing this nut we will not only make noise disappear but we will let Ithaca vapes with very thin wicks too.

I will tell you more things tomorrow
 

Aal_

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Today I made a single wire on Ithaca. I removed 3 strands of a 3mm wick so I had in my hands a 1,5mm fat wick. I put 2 wicks 1,5mm side by side and a wire around them. I put the edges of wick inside channels. I noticed that Ithaca vaped excellent even if the wick was 1,5mm each. I did this 3 times today and Ithaca vapes wonderful. Finally Ithaca vapes as usual even if we put very thin wick inside channels and maybe better because we can make more coils around thinner wicks.

The reason is the center post top nut. I changed the standard one with the new one that I made and not only I don't have a noise like gurgling but this nut allows Ithaca to vape under any size of wick.

Thats my results until now. I will continue the tests but I am now sure that the center post top nut was the reason for the noise issue and the gurgling from time to time. By changing this nut we will not only make noise disappear but we will let Ithaca vapes with very thin wicks too.

I will tell you more things tomorrow

You mean the flooding stopped with the small nut? What relation is there between the size of wicks and the nut?
 

imeothanasis

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Ithaca never really flood aal. This "flooding" or to name it better "noise" is a small drop of liquid that is going inside this nut because it is too close to the wick. Ali was right by saying that the liquid while is burning explodes and small drops of it go inside the nut. By moving the nut away from the wick is the simple solution.

It was not a problem for me but its for some of my customers and I had to resolve it
 

Aal_

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Ithaca never really flood aal. This "flooding" or to name it better "noise" is a small drop of liquid that is going inside this nut because it is too close to the wick. Ali was right by saying that the liquid while is burning explodes and small drops of it go inside the nut. By moving the nut away from the wick is the simple solution.

It was not a problem for me but its for some of my customers and I had to resolve it

I meant the flooding I used to have when using 1.5mm wick. You advised me to use 2.5 or more.
 

imeothanasis

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I thought that wick was the issue but its not aal. The flooding you experience is because you maybe didnt screw well the upper cap or you had an unscrewed center post. Or maybe the nut inside ceramic is the reason. I had same results as you with the standard nut but not any more
 
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LongDraw

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Hey all,

Thought I would post here rather than starting another thread.

I am fusing my own wires using 30 gauge kanthal and 32 gauge nickel. I have been noticing, primarily on my penelope, the ohms will read much higher sometimes than they should. Once, when I just had the rebuildable part in the base I put it on my ohm tester and when I pushed the coil down the ohms went back to where they should.

Would it be better for me to use 30 gauge nickel with my kanthal. I know it has something to do with my builds, so just trying to see what I should try. I was thinking of ordering 30 gauge kanthal tonight, but wanted to check with others first. I like the 32 nickel because it lays very easy in the channels and such.
 

dwcraig1

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Hey all,

Thought I would post here rather than starting another thread.

I am fusing my own wires using 30 gauge kanthal and 32 gauge nickel. I have been noticing, primarily on my penelope, the ohms will read much higher sometimes than they should. Once, when I just had the rebuildable part in the base I put it on my ohm tester and when I pushed the coil down the ohms went back to where they should.

Would it be better for me to use 30 gauge nickel with my kanthal. I know it has something to do with my builds, so just trying to see what I should try. I was thinking of ordering 30 gauge kanthal tonight, but wanted to check with others first. I like the 32 nickel because it lays very easy in the channels and such.
If you are twisting the wires together it shouldn't matter but if you are using a wire welder maybe, maybe not. The small difference in size between 30 and 32 in the channels shouldn't make much if any difference. Just my opinion though.

If welding your welds aren't good enough, try lowering the voltage or the time that you charge the capacitor, depending on what type you have.
You might try increasing it as well.
 
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LongDraw

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Thanks dw. I may have to try, I use the TSAF and have it set on 3 which I think goes with 30 gauge. Gonna try fusing a few at the 2 and 4 setting just to see what happens.

EDIT: So I tried at the 2 and 4 setting as well. The 4 gave a def louder pop, louder than when a good connection is made on 3. Did a build and so far so good. Heres to hoping no issues show up. Think I will just keep the setting at 4.

If you are twisting the wires together it shouldn't matter but if you are using a wire welder maybe, maybe not. The small difference in size between 30 and 32 in the channels shouldn't make much if any difference. Just my opinion though.

If welding your welds aren't good enough, try lowering the voltage or the time that you charge the capacitor, depending on what type you have.
You might try increasing it as well.
 
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LongDraw

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Thanks again.

I had seen that thread before my tsaf came in, after a few pages it turned into them making one with camera flashes.

Hopefully the higher charge works out, plus I stopped being lazy and started wiping the wire end with alcohol to clean again, that may have also just been what I needed to do.

Great device, just thinking I was having a bad few welds. The instructions say setting three is for 0.20-0.23 wire and setting 4 is for "much thicker" wire. Think I'll be good using either, will see how this penny build holds out.

All of my other fuses at the 3 setting have been going now for about 2 or 3 weeks.

Thanks again dw.

 
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