Ithaka official

[yankeebobo]

Tighten the pos post well. Pinch the pos wire between your thumb and the notched ring around the post. While holding wrap two turns snug around the post, trim, then rotate the oring clockwise while sliding it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[yankeebobo]

I have a few questions from a new, and very happy, Ithaka user. First, I have a very small amount of juice coming out of the bottom, around the air hole where the ring is. Is it just left over vapor coming out? Is that normal, or do I have a very small leak somewhere? I took my time building it and made sure that all O-rings were seated properly, if I could see them anyway. And, second, has anyone used MM Agent Orange in an Ithaka and does it cause any problems with the plastic window. I have an extra, but I don't want to mess the original up by using a juice when I can order a SS one and avoid the problem all together. Thanks in advance for any help.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2

Out of the 510 post itself? Or around the base surrounding the post. You may need to use a small oring under the nut inside the ceramic or a smaller nut inside. Seems that's what's working for many.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Jivarro]

Out of the 510 post itself? Or around the base surrounding the post. You may need to use a small oring under the nut inside the ceramic or a smaller nut inside. Seems that's what's working for many.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Actually, I didn't look that far. I just noticed it around the air hole at the bottom of the Ithaka. I have 2 spare O-ring kits.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2

 

[pl_svn]

... rebuilded my Ithaka three times today and I always ended up with massive leakages out of AC
(and flooded chamber)

I guess something is wrong with the o-ring that holds positive wires, but... what? the o-ring itself looks just fine and I did tighten as usual (if not even stronger) the rebuildable part

only change from usual setup is I'm trying a dual coil (using two 3mm wicks, basic feeding open on one channel)

and here I am with my fourth attempt, scared as hell by putting juice in the tank as... if I blow into the mouthpiece (AC totally closed) air comes out from I don't get where

 

[Lex0r]

Double check the o-ring with your fingernails to make sure the outer area is not split horizontally. Sometimes this can happen to o-rings and you do not notice it until a very close inspection. Do you have a spare o-ring? Also, maybe I misunderstood, but you SHOULD be able to blow/suck air through Ithaka, in any configuration.

... rebuilded my Ithaka three times today and I always ended up with massive leakages out of AC
(and flooded chamber)

I guess something is wrong with the o-ring that holds positive wires, but... what? the o-ring itself looks just fine and I did tighten as usual (if not even stronger) the rebuildable part

only change from usual setup is I'm trying a dual coil (using two 3mm wicks, basic feeding open on one channel)

and here I am with my fourth attempt, scared as hell by putting juice in the tank as... if I blow into the mouthpiece (AC totally closed) air comes out from I don't get where

 

[Lex0r]

Readings using a multimeter? The positive lead is pushed down very tightly as long as you tightly screw the housing into the base. There's no way for the positive lead to move around unless the o-ring is damaged or the connection is loose. Tighten the housing a little bit more, and make sure the positive lead makes at least 1 full revolution around the post.

Anyone have a tip on how to get a rock solid connection with the leg thats captured by the o-ring? I'm getting seriously sporadic ohm readings and feel that it HAS to be do to a loose connection somewhere.

 

[thatton]

Is it normal to have to have to loosen the bottom brass piece to make contact with my Provari mini? I have tried everything I can think of to make it make contact but the only way it will is if I unscrew it and then screw the Ithaka on to my Provari until it is tightened on to the device. It works fine, just doesn't seem right.

 

[pl_svn]

Double check the o-ring with your fingernails to make sure the outer area is not split horizontally. Sometimes this can happen to o-rings and you do not notice it until a very close inspection. Do you have a spare o-ring? Also, maybe I misunderstood, but you SHOULD be able to blow/suck air through Ithaka, in any configuration.

yes, already triple checked that #@% o-ring (btw: a 1c part that can make unusable a 180$ device? )
I'll try putting a new one but... what puzzles me is that at the same time "the chamber" is completely flooded and instead of vaping I end up drinking

right about blowing/sucking air: a very small amount of air is passing through both the "sealed" GGTS native connection and collector tank or the "open" Stealth 510 connector

 

[pl_svn]

Is it normal to have to have to loosen the bottom brass piece to make contact with my Provari mini? I have tried everything I can think of to make it make contact but the only way it will is if I unscrew it and then screw the Ithaka on to my Provari until it is tightened on to the device. It works fine, just doesn't seem right.

not only it's absolutely right, it also is the best self-adjusting connection I've ever seen and it works marvelously on any device

 

[fright88]

Thanks fright, you must have vaped some crazy juices. In the past I had a few nets that would gunk up to much to where I can taste it after about 3mls, but never a juice that completed killed a coil.

I figured these can go quite a while seeing as some commercial drip atties are used for months.

I used Caramel Waffle from Tasty Vapor for a long time and loved/love the taste but hate how badly it gunks up everything. New carto every day or a new coil every 2 days sometimes I would deal with 3 days with dry burns. My new juices are much clearer and coils last much longer because of it. The 2.5 month Ithaka coil is a record though and think I will likely change it much more frequently (like once a month ) that was a test I was doing to see how long till it got to always tasting bad.

 

[Lex0r]

Is it normal to have to have to loosen the bottom brass piece to make contact with my Provari mini? I have tried everything I can think of to make it make contact but the only way it will is if I unscrew it and then screw the Ithaka on to my Provari until it is tightened on to the device. It works fine, just doesn't seem right.

Yes, the brass piece is adjustable precisely for this purpose, unscrew it as much as you need until the base sits flush with your provari when you attach Ithaka.

 

[villarino1k]

not only it's absolutely right, it also is the best self-adjusting connection I've ever seen and it works marvelously on any device

totally agree! I love its design. Makes it real easy to get the ithaka to sit flush on any mod.

 

[vintage6767]

hello everyone, may i know where can i get a iatty top plastic? i just broke mine today, sadly..... anyone knows any store have stocks?

thanks in advance.

 

[imeothanasis]

check my seller's sites vint

 

[blackwater]

I used Caramel Waffle from Tasty Vapor for a long time and loved/love the taste but hate how badly it gunks up everything. New carto every day or a new coil every 2 days sometimes I would deal with 3 days with dry burns. My new juices are much clearer and coils last much longer because of it. The 2.5 month Ithaka coil is a record though and think I will likely change it much more frequently (like once a month ) that was a test I was doing to see how long till it got to always tasting bad.

Hey Fright,

What are you vaping for juice now?

Chris

 

[thatton]

not only it's absolutely right, it also is the best self-adjusting connection I've ever seen and it works marvelously on any device

Ok AWESOME! I just wanted to make sure I was doing it the right way. I agree, it does work pretty damn well. Very consistent ohm readings since putting it on each time. Thanks!

 

[thatton]

Yes, the brass piece is adjustable precisely for this purpose, unscrew it as much as you need until the base sits flush with your provari when you attach Ithaka.

Thank you for your reply as well. I feel much better now about the assembly as I thought I was somehow doing something "wrong".

 

[PerfectELu]

I have rebuilt my ithaka 5 times in the last two days and it leaks bad. I have added the extra 2x2 suggested by bishop, I have tighted everything but I can't pin point where it is leaking, I find juice everywhere including my hand, collecter tank and driping from the top cap when juice isn't even half full. I have lost two bottles of juice...I have no idea where to begin...I feel like sealing it up with silicon lol. Is there a written diagram or breakdown of parts? I have watched the videos but I am missing something. It has a decent amount of vapor production but flavor is muted compared to dripping....any help appreciated.

Cheers,
PerfectElu
"On the level"

 

[bigleft]

post some pics of your build and parts... maybe someone can spot your issue.

 

[subver]

Hey guys, I had a slight leak today.. Out of the oring around the center post I believe. I was driving home from work and suddenly there was juice on the outside of my GGTS.. No juice in the center post or collector tank so I assume it was the oring.
I'm using the MrKrinkle method for the first time and it's been going good for almost 48 hours now.. It only leaked that one time.. And not a whole lot. Not sure why it leaked.. Do you guys have any ideas why or how I can prevent this again? It seems fine now.. No leaks, but the oring is a little wet when I look at the bottom.. I keep trying to dry it with a paper towel but I can't seem to dry it perfectly.. Either way it's not dripping or leaking, but now I'm nervous to keep using or if I should rebuild it.
I feel like it might have to do with the MrKrinkle method (no wick in the channels) but I'm not sure.. I'm using 80% VG.
Any ideas or suggestions? Could my rebuildable part be screwed in too tight? Maybe it's screwed so tight that the oring warped? Hmmm...