Ithaka official

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Aal_

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Imeo, a better idea is to use the email as identifier. If someone whats his parts fixed, he should send you an email from the same email registered when he bought the item. Emails are unique unlike First names + first letter of last name.

To support second hand items, if someone sells an item to another person, The seller has to send an email from his registered email and notify your official seller of the new email of the person who bought it from him.
 
The silly person that made this clone with GG logo on it, is proud saying that he wants to see now how people will identify the original from the fake. Also he said that because he doesnt want to mix serials with original (thank you mr faker for this :laugh:), he will start serials from 5000. But Ithakas are already up to 7000, so his claim is already false.

I see more and more GG copiers around. In fact all copiers make GG series. That means that some people support them. That also means that I cant support real GG users the way I supported them because I cant support damaged parts for free. The reason is that I dont know if the user has the fake or the original item.

Also the registering will change. My sellers will know what number send and to whom, and they will send me a list of all people that bought from them. The first name of the person that bought it and the first letter of his last name will appear on the wiki list, so noone will be able to register a fake GG item. That way we protect personal info of my customers and we avoid copies to make a mess with their serials.

Also I will phone to my lawyer tomorrow to sue this person. He will be the first one that will take a lesson. Copies may think that I am very elastic with GG logo as I am with GG copies. I said last time that if I see GG logo on any GG copy I will sue the funny person that makes those copies without a warning and thats what I am going to do.

I can only guess where this person is operating his counterfeit operation from, but let me know if I can help in anyway in shutting him down imeo! You're good enough to let the copies slide, but marking with your logo is a whole different ball game!
 

hayzach

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Nov 24, 2012
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If that is a picture of the clone they went to great lengths to buff it like a GG. I have seen them simply use pictures of a real GG before, are you guys sure that this is a picture of the clone?

uzu3adub.jpg


Im pretty sure its clone...selling at roughly usd79 a piece

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
 

yankeebobo

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Well, I don't know what you would get. But the clones don't usually have engravings THAT good. That looks as though it's right down to the same font type Imeo uses for ithakas. Again, sure they could have improved the clones that well, but....

Here are some definite clones:

ismoka.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=91_92]Magoo Kits
forums.aussievapers.com/e-cigarette-vaporization-discussion-forum/13598-ithaka-clone.html]IthakaClone
forum-ecigarette.com/les-reservoirs-atomiseurs-f489/ithaka-clone-vaporfreak-t95848.html]IthakaCLONE (VaporFreak) : Les réservoirs / atomiseurs

there is also one where it's called the Hercules.

BUT, in the end, here is the bottom line. Be careful where you buy your GG from. Imeo only has a few sellers. And watch the ratings on the classifieds.
 
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LongDraw

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Was hoping for a few suggestions. Was rebuilding one of my Ithakas and for the fourth time I get a E1 error on my provari. I put it on my ohms checker and it reads .2. My last build it read .07 on the ohms checker.

Not really sure how/why. I am using welded wires, and they always read 1.5 or there abouts.

Any thoughts? I am doing the same process as always, but now four times in a row this as happened. Kinda sucks cause I am wasting wick.

EDIT: It's gotta be that one of the joins isn't joining well, cause when I take it apart and I go to uncoil the wrap one of the joints snaps.
 
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gtbb

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Was hoping for a few suggestions. Was rebuilding one of my Ithakas and for the fourth time I get a E1 error on my provari. I put it on my ohms checker and it reads .2. My last build it read .07 on the ohms checker.

Not really sure how/why. I am using welded wires, and they always read 1.5 or there abouts.

Any thoughts? I am doing the same process as always, but now four times in a row this as happened. Kinda sucks cause I am wasting wick.
Have you tried turning the voltage all the way down? If it's a go then turn up. Worth a try.
 

LongDraw

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Thanks gtbb. I tried going down to 3 volts and it still didn't work. Tore down and tried this time with a welded 32 and 30 gauge. Same thing happened the joint broke. Not sure where to hold it to put the least amount of pressure on the weld. Just not my vaping day, happened a month or so back as well

Have you tried turning the voltage all the way down? If it's a go then turn up. Worth a try.
 
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