Ithaka official

[Ariel_MX]

Thanks gtbb. I tried going down to 3 volts and it still didn't work. Tore down and tried this time with a welded 32 and 30 gauge. Same thing happened the joint broke. Not sure where to hold it to put the least amount of pressure on the weld. Just not my vaping day, happened a month or so back as well

I know that feeling.

Last week I was fighting with one of my iAttys, I just couldn't make it work properly (dry hits, flooding, poor wicking), but I'm too obstinated, watched and watched old videos and Bishopheals's videos, thought and re thought until I could make it work properly.

 

[LongDraw]

So this time when I tore it down I did so careful. Attached it to my genesis device and both my provari and my separate ohm checker read it at exactly 1.5 ohms, rather than the .2 ohms the separate ohm checker read it when it was on the ithaka.

Anything on my rebuildable part or base I should check on the Ithaka?

Disassembled my rebuildable part and all looks ok.

Hmmmmmm.....So this was my 3rd ithaka and I had not used it yet. Upon further investigations there are small burs in the gg base threading. Was my last ditch effort as I had read others had this issue as well. So gonna clean real good and maybe give another go.

 

[Ariel_MX]

So this time when I tore it down I did so careful. Attached it to my genesis device and both my provari and my separate ohm checker read it at exactly 1.5 ohms, rather than the .2 ohms the separate ohm checker read it when it was on the ithaka.

Anything on my rebuildable part or base I should check on the Ithaka?

Disassembled my rebuildable part and all looks ok.

Hmmmmmm.....So this was my 3rd ithaka and I had not used it yet. Upon further investigations there are small burs in the gg base threading. Was my last ditch effort as I had read others had this issue as well. So gonna clean real good and maybe give another go.

On of my Ithakas had a small bur on the base of the ceramic assembly, that little bur was touching the center pin, causing a short.

 

[LongDraw]

Well I am at a loss at think I need to set it down for awhile. Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

[Repent]

Got my Ithaka in the mail today. First coil is 1.5 oHm and I'm using 3mm double wicks. Coil is created by joining centers of two wicks together. I set the BF to have only one wick open. I opened up the MP almost all the way, so that the bottom of the MP is even with the bottom of the upper body piece.

So far so good. No leaks or gurgling. Wicks are almost broken in. I know that if I had opened the MP this far on my Ody it would have flooded badly.

Next build I'm doing the same thing except I'm going to expose both wicks on the BF as well as open up the MP.

I'm curious how many folks are running only one wick and/or two wicks joined by one coil as I am and your experiences with those setups.

BTW I am using 70/30 juice.

 

[LongDraw]

So I don't know why, but it is working now. I took off the rebuildable part and when I did I needed to retighten the center post (often comes lose for me because of how tight the rebuildable part is) and then i readjusted the positive connection wire. When I put it back together the ohms read 1.5 as it should.

Not sure what the difference here was. Earlier on this same build I retightened the positive post.

Anyone think it could be the insulator above the metal disk that is part of the center post? Earlier it didn't seem like that sat perfectly centered and was more off to one side. I don't think it was the rebuildable part itself, because I had used this one several times before.

Regardless just happy this one is up and running to.

Thanks again everyone (at least through this I did get the burs off the threading the gg base.)

 

[LongDraw]

Very close to what I use. I use two, 2 mm silica wicks and wrap one coil around both and it comes out to 1.5 ohms. I also use 70pg/30vg. This is the only set up I have used so far and really like. Minus the hiccup I was experiencing with the above posts

EDIT: For the mouthpiece I only open mine 1 to 3 half turns.

Got my Ithaka in the mail today. First coil is 1.5 oHm and I'm using 3mm double wicks. Coil is created by joining centers of two wicks together. I set the BF to have only one wick open. I opened up the MP almost all the way, so that the bottom of the MP is even with the bottom of the upper body piece.

So far so good. No leaks or gurgling. Wicks are almost broken in. I know that if I had opened the MP this far on my Ody it would have flooded badly.

Next build I'm doing the same thing except I'm going to expose both wicks on the BF as well as open up the MP.

I'm curious how many folks are running only one wick and/or two wicks joined by one coil as I am and your experiences with those setups.

BTW I am using 70/30 juice.

 

[Poppa D]

An old fashioned makers mark worked for centuries to verify valuables. These markings are clearly beneficial to collectors of genuine desirables.

 

[fright88]

So I don't know why, but it is working now. I took off the rebuildable part and when I did I needed to retighten the center post (often comes lose for me because of how tight the rebuildable part is) and then i readjusted the positive connection wire. When I put it back together the ohms read 1.5 as it should.

Not sure what the difference here was. Earlier on this same build I retightened the positive post.

Anyone think it could be the insulator above the metal disk that is part of the center post? Earlier it didn't seem like that sat perfectly centered and was more off to one side. I don't think it was the rebuildable part itself, because I had used this one several times before.

Regardless just happy this one is up and running to.

Thanks again everyone (at least through this I did get the burs off the threading the gg base.)

If your center pin isn't centered correctly when attached to the ceramic housing it can cause a short. If it is to loose and it wobbles a little it can cause a short. I am guessing it was either slightly loose and when you rightened it all together the pin became slightly askew touching the ceramic housing or it was tight and sitting slightly to one side.

 

[bfrie]

So far, 3 leaky builds in a row. I'll get this guys

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[hayzach]

I don't believe those are Ithaka clones. They look too exact. With Caravela's selling for a couple thousand on auction, they can't muster a decent replication of those with engraving. GG's and 'Vela's would be a more likely target for duplicating before the accessories?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[LongDraw]

Thanks fright. I never had that problem before, but am gonna have to pay a little more attention because it was quite frustrating.

I won't need to rebuild for awhile, but I saved your comment to look during my next builds. Think it will be hard to tell because everything looked straight, but something was definetly off.

Thanks again.

If your center pin isn't centered correctly when attached to the ceramic housing it can cause a short. If it is to loose and it wobbles a little it can cause a short. I am guessing it was either slightly loose and when you rightened it all together the pin became slightly askew touching the ceramic housing or it was tight and sitting slightly to one side.

 

[subver]

Sometimes my Ithaka just floods and I have no idea why. It's usually when I'm getting near time to change my coils.. never on a fresh build. It's not after I fill it up, it's not because I have the mouthpiece open and I also don't have the automatic feeder slots open.
I think it has something to do with gunked up coils or an older build, but no idea why. Any ideas? Does this happen to anyone else?

P.S. did CoV sell the steel window replacements yet? If so I missed it, even with email notifications, so I hope not!

 

[Aal_]

Sometimes my Ithaka just floods and I have no idea why. It's usually when I'm getting near time to change my coils.. never on a fresh build. It's not after I fill it up, it's not because I have the mouthpiece open and I also don't have the automatic feeder slots open.
I think it has something to do with gunked up coils or an older build, but no idea why. Any ideas? Does this happen to anyone else?

P.S. did CoV sell the steel window replacements yet? If so I missed it, even with email notifications, so I hope not!

it happens on my penelope when i have too much gunk and it is running hot. check the body near the coil, is it hot? i think what happens is that the heat will cause the pressure to rise and the gunk does not allow coil to evaporate efficiently.

 

[jkim5708]

Just wanting 2 know if anyones used ss mesh wrapped around silica...somewhat of ahybrid w7ck? Iif sowhat are your results

Tia

 

[subver]

it happens on my penelope when i have too much gunk and it is running hot. check the body near the coil, is it hot? i think what happens is that the heat will cause the pressure to rise and the gunk does not allow coil to evaporate efficiently.

Ah yes, that makes sense!

 

[Pillow]

Received my Ithaka yesterday, just amazing piece of work. Thanks Imeo for it ! There was one additional piece, small nut with threads fitting the center post, attached in separate bag. What this one is for ? Is it the new center post top nut ?

 

[imeothanasis]

Great pillow my friend

Yes, its the new nut that you can use in case you hear a noise while vaping and you dont like this noise.

 

[Pillow]

I thought so, just got confused as it is so small and it does not have grooves for a screwdriver as the original one. And thanks for the quick reply, this is also another thing that make you products so special !

 

[imeothanasis]

thanks again pillow