Ithaka official

[foggdawg]

I am loving this ithaka. Great vapor and flavor. crossed dual wicks 3mm. I'm not having any leaking issues. But I do get some gurgle. Not sure where it is coming from. The mouthpiece is closed and juice is feeding thru the lower part to the wicks. Don't know what you call it-auto juice feed.

 

[Trackjunkie]

I can't seem to set up my Ithaka properly after 5 tries. The process is simple, I agree, but I always get dry burning hits. I use the wicks that came from COV, which I believe 3mm and use the ready made wires 1.2 ohms. Dual coil set up (X) pattern. Juice is 40/60 PG/VG. I've followed several "how-to" videos as my reference. The first two tries made the body and mouthpiece really hot with dry burning hits. Third to fifth try, still had dry burning hits but the body didn't get as hot. I've also played around with the auto juice feeder on and off.

The last build I made is only good for the first 3 drags then I get the dry burning hits. So, why don't I open up the juice control? I did slowly, half a turn at a time, but eventually get gurgling. Even with gurgling I get dry burning hits. I know I'm doing something wrong here, since everyone is enjoying this atty.

Oh and to add, as expected, muted flavor and minimal vapor production.

 

[Lex0r]

I can't seem to set up my Ithaka properly after 5 tries. The process is simple, I agree, but I always get dry burning hits. I use the wicks that came from COV, which I believe 3mm and use the ready made wires 1.2 ohms. Dual coil set up (X) pattern. Juice is 40/60 PG/VG. I've followed several "how-to" videos as my reference. The first two tries made the body and mouthpiece really hot with dry burning hits. Third to fifth try, still had dry burning hits but the body didn't get as hot. I've also played around with the auto juice feeder on and off.

The last build I made is only good for the first 3 drags then I get the dry burning hits. So, why don't I open up the juice control? I did slowly, half a turn at a time, but eventually get gurgling. Even with gurgling I get dry burning hits. I know I'm doing something wrong here, since everyone is enjoying this atty.

Oh and to add, as expected, muted flavor and minimal vapor production.

When installing the ceramic housing, how tight do you screw it down? Just kinda snug-ish, or more than hand tight? Try screwing it down more, and leave just one ceramic channel open on basic feeding. Make sure the center post nut is in the position to leave the slots in the ceramic exposed, and then double check that they are exposed once you tighten the center pin. Also, if you are close enough to me, I would be willing to help you in person, let me know.

 

[Trackjunkie]

Lex0r: I screw in the ceramic housing more than hand tight. I also make sure that ceramic slots are exposed. AND, I will take you up on that offer since I believe I've tried plenty. I'm located in the San Fernando Valley, but willing to drive and meet you. PM me. Thanks!

 

[Poppa D]

You're running two1.2 ohm coils? That's a very hot .6 ohm dual. Try using 1 coil w 2 wicks it should be much better, not so hot.

 

[Trackjunkie]

That was my next step Poppa D. Thx.

 

[bigleft]

Just thought I'd throw my experience in here...

I got my ithaka Monday... Love it Imeo, lovely piece of engineering!

Actually, I should say I love it now. It took about 5 builds of experimenting to finally get it right. At least right for me. Ended up with dual X coils at about 0.7ohm.

The tid-bit of info I'd like to add that I've discovered in my short time with the device:

I happen to be twisting my own resistant/non-resistant wire connections... this inevitably leaves small "knots" at the connections. I noticed that after building w/ 3mm wick (cross) + extra "flavor" wick in between the two coils, my set up barely fit down into the ceramic. Test firing went fine... so I put on the mouth peice and tank and filled. First hit was instant harshness.

What I found was that the "knots" on my wires were sitting higher than the ceramic. This in turn made contact with the top of the mouth piece chamber which caused a short.

I did this twice before realizing what was happening.

Lesson learned: Ensure coil(s) are below the edge of the ceramic as to not make contact with the inside of the mouthpiece chamber.


Don't know if this has been stated by anyone else (I didn't see warnings from the videos I've watch), or it is possibly just common knowledge... regardless, I thought I'd share in case it could help someone else.


She looks sexy on the Paps Lux

 

[ProngATO]

It took me two builds. My first one I did a single coil with a horseshoe wick configuration. It worked fairly well but when the battery voltage dropped below about 3.6 on a single coil the experience got much less pleasurable.

My second build I went with dual coil 1.7 ohm coil, dual wick with the X configuration you did. What a difference! Parallel and series resistance is DC circuits 101 so the concepts are very simple.

A little tip building the coils, after cutting your wick to length, place them on the ceramic module and use a pencil to mark your area for the wick. Then. I use a needle to help stabilize the wick and make my coils. Remove the needle and you're good to go.

The Ithaka isn't rocket science but I would stay optimum setup is beyond most average vapers.

My advice to anyone with an ithaka is to watch as many videos of various wick assemblies and see what you like best.

But yeah, I am with you, the dual coil 1.7 ohm X is the best performing configuration yet.

Series resistance is additive - R1 + R2 = R3
Parallel resistance is recriprical - 1/R1 + 1/R2 = 1/R3 thus, plugging in the values of 1.7 ohms you would end up with half the original resistance of R1 and R2 or ~ 0.85 ohms.

This explanation may be redundant for some of the more advanced users but I just wanted to try to help out.

And yes, if you have a positive wire (the ceramic side) touching the threads or outside casing around the ceramic, it will create a short. That's the whole negative pathway (the reason the negative side doesn't have cut outs on the ceramic housing)

prongATO

Just thought I'd throw my experience in here...

I got my ithaka Monday... Love it Imeo, lovely piece of engineering!

Actually, I should say I love it now. It took about 5 builds of experimenting to finally get it right. At least right for me. Ended up with dual X coils at about 0.7ohm.

The tid-bit of info I'd like to add that I've discovered in my short time with the device:



Lesson learned: Ensure coil(s) are below the edge of the ceramic as to not make contact with the inside of the mouthpiece chamber.


Don't know if this has been stated by anyone else (I didn't see warnings from the videos I've watch), or it is possibly just common knowledge... regardless, I thought I'd share in case it could help someone else.

View attachment 232154
She looks sexy on the Paps Lux

 

[Jivarro]

I just ordered a Zapper from Juice Kitchen, does anyone know about long it takes to receive it? I live in Florida.

 

[Mini Cooper S]

I just ordered a Zapper from Juice Kitchen, does anyone know about long it takes to receive it? I live in Florida.

Mine took about 2 weeks. Did you email them b4 you ordered?


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[Jivarro]

Mine took about 2 weeks. Did you email them b4 you ordered?


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No, I did not... Did I need to? And if so, why?

 

[Jivarro]

Has anyone tried a figure 8 single coil around 2 wicks? And if so, how was it?

 

[subver]

CoV just announced the steel window replacements in stock.. finally! I just got one

I also have 6 feet of Ekowool coming, should be here Friday... can't wait to give that a try! I better like it because I'm just about out of 2.5mm silica (I do have 3mm, though)

 

[bfrie]

No, I did not... Did I need to? And if so, why?

It says right on the site email before ordering for international shipping

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[Sklarzo]

So I just got my Ithaka yesterday from CoV and it is definitely a beastly atty.

I am liking it so far, but i'm experiencing a low whistling sound while taking a draw. It is also gurgling, but I have the new nut to switch out if it bothers me (not really so far). Is the whistling normal?

Also, I was watching Scott's review video and noticed his clear window had 2 o-rings on the top and bottom. Mine doesnt have these, is that something that only the older models have?

 

[Jivarro]

It says right on the site email before ordering for international shipping

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Oops... It gave me a option for international shipping when I checked out, I selected it so hopefully it will be ok.

 

[Ariel_MX]

So I just got my Ithaka yesterday from CoV and it is definitely a beastly atty.

I am liking it so far, but i'm experiencing a low whistling sound while taking a draw. It is also gurgling, but I have the new nut to switch out if it bothers me (not really so far). Is the whistling normal?

Also, I was watching Scott's review video and noticed his clear window had 2 o-rings on the top and bottom. Mine doesnt have these, is that something that only the older models have?

I think those o-rings are not needed, one of my Ithakas didn't come with those o-rings and there is not any leaking.

Check if the Ithaka's center pin and center pin top nut are well screwed, I have noticed some gurgling and it was due the center pin was loose.

Also play with the center post top nut, it has an "open" and a "closed" position, relative to the ceramic bottom slots.

 

[CaptSteve]

Ariel's reply was spot on Skiarzo the only thing I need to add is what size wick are you using?? If it's too thin you may get some gurgling as the Ithakas channels are quite thick. It takes some trials and errors to get it right if you're new to this

 

[Killjoy1]

remaining Ithakas and parts are up at CoV for anybody waiting

 

[Sklarzo]

Thanks for the replies, using 1.5mm wick dual coil in an X right now. Figured it was a little thin, going to try 2.5mm Eko next build. Ill also take a look at the nut inside the ceramic and double check. Right now it is still totally vapeable so I dont want to force myself to have to rebuild it