Ithaka official

[jliu]

what does the CT stand for? JGG CT

Also have you heard of any issues from the high serial numbers that are similar to yours?

Would be curious as to what changes have occurred to the Ithaka from your first run to now.

 

[Idaholandho]

Yeah, I was saying sell for parts . Unnecessary humor from the duh side.
My offer stands to send one of mine to swap out parts. My #s are mid 1k and mid 2k. I can't stop thinking this has to do with the rebuildable as well or something is off center causing a leaning tower of Ithaka.

 

[Idaholandho]

what does the CT stand for? JGG CT

Also have you heard of any issues from the high serial numbers that are similar to yours?

Would be curious as to what changes have occurred to the Ithaka from your first run to now.

Collection tank. Just GG collection tank..

 

[Jojobo]

Jliu, I can't speak to anyone else's or the numbers...

Chris, I actually got your Duh humor...what's that say about me??? LOL!!

As for the post, I have been inspecting the post and they are not leaning at all. They are very perpendicular all the way around...I wish this was a FUBAR on our part...I wish it was just a loose post or a leaning post or cracked delrin washer or split oring or squeezing too tight or dried out oring....ecc

When we received the #17 and #18 from MCMaster I personally stripped my Ithakas down to every single part and cleaned everything ... every oring was replaced...#18's put on some of the base and #17 on others...#16 stayed on the ss windows and #17 mostly on upper body a couple of them had 18's needed. Everything else inside stayed the same. 5 -6 days and now pissing out the oring on the base. SMH...I'm beginning to think we are just not Ithaka people. Didn't have issues with Ody and no issues with the penny...loved the iatty.....................sigh........just ordered native bases for the remaining 3 iattys we have left (we sold most of them for the Ithaka) from Italy so can't wait to test those out.

 

[V4Vendetta]

Gosh, I would think at this point, it might be better to send the atty to Imeo and let him see what the issue/fix is ...

 

[Shaketuga]

Jliu, I can't speak to anyone else's or the numbers...

Chris, I actually got your Duh humor...what's that say about me??? LOL!!

As for the post, I have been inspecting the post and they are not leaning at all. They are very perpendicular all the way around...I wish this was a FUBAR on our part...I wish it was just a loose post or a leaning post or cracked delrin washer or split oring or squeezing too tight or dried out oring....ecc

When we received the #17 and #18 from MCMaster I personally stripped my Ithakas down to every single part and cleaned everything ... every oring was replaced...#18's put on some of the base and #17 on others...#16 stayed on the ss windows and #17 mostly on upper body a couple of them had 18's needed. Everything else inside stayed the same. 5 -6 days and now pissing out the oring on the base. SMH...I'm beginning to think we are just not Ithaka people. Didn't have issues with Ody and no issues with the penny...loved the iatty.....................sigh........just ordered native bases for the remaining 3 iattys we have left (we sold most of them for the Ithaka) from Italy so can't wait to test those out.

Aww man I'm banging my head with this I Wish I could think of something that you guys haven't tried yet! Hopefull the dang ol parts from COV do the trick.


Sent from: The Land of Tortuga!

 

[Kataphraktos]

New problem now. I get to go through my bucket of orings to solve this that has developed since I enlarged the other.

Upper right corner picture: the o-ring looks like it is swelling out the bottom of the Ithaka base. Is this just the way the light is reflecting, or is that o-ring really that tightened down that it peeks out of the bottom?

FWIW, I was getting exactly these leaks when I was overtightening the coil assembly into the bottom. Eventually, overtightening actually stripped the outer portion off the inner portion of the o-ring. I now hold back on tightening. It feels wrong, but it works perfectly.

I'm happy to swap one of mine for one of yours, see what happens. Mine are both high serials (6099 and 5389).

 

[Jojobo]

hey Kata,
oring isn't poking out...it's the way it is photographed with the liquid reflecting...but ya know, maybe we are tightening too tightly...(it maybe be our frustration reflecting in the whole oring debacle ) I am happy to try that !!

 

[Aal_]

Next. The adjustable in the JGG CT. that screw is all the way down. That is being pushed out by the ithaka post. So the bottom cap spring and battery are pushing back too much. I say this because it doesn't take much to push that brass in the CT out.

I don't get your point here Yankee. How is this playing a role?

 

[Aal_]

Stupid question Yankee. Have you tried different Juices? Some 100% VG liquids on high temperature of the coil become like water. This is becoming ridiculous. We have to find a solution. 8 Ithakas with similar problems that most are not having makes me suspect the juice or the coil builds. I don't say to change those parameters but at least we can confirm that Ithaka might not perform well under certain conditions so we can fix it.

 

[V4Vendetta]

He's having issue with all 8 of 'em??? I have only one that works fine and it vapes like a champ. I think vape/taste from Ithaka is .... WOW. It's fantastic!!!

I bought it second hand and haven't changed anything including coil. I bandaged mine, using my own o-rings (diameter is ok but too thick) on top and bottom of clear window and, so far, so good. I purchased o-ring sets for Ithaka and plan to changing all my o-rings and also re-coil ... knock on wood. So far, my only criticism of the atty is that it's fairly hefty weighted atty.

 

[Idaholandho]

Jliu, I can't speak to anyone else's or the numbers...

Chris, I actually got your Duh humor...what's that say about me??? LOL!!

As for the post, I have been inspecting the post and they are not leaning at all. They are very perpendicular all the way around...I wish this was a FUBAR on our part...I wish it was just a loose post or a leaning post or cracked delrin washer or split oring or squeezing too tight or dried out oring....ecc

When we received the #17 and #18 from MCMaster I personally stripped my Ithakas down to every single part and cleaned everything ... every oring was replaced...#18's put on some of the base and #17 on others...#16 stayed on the ss windows and #17 mostly on upper body a couple of them had 18's needed. Everything else inside stayed the same. 5 -6 days and now pissing out the oring on the base. SMH...I'm beginning to think we are just not Ithaka people. Didn't have issues with Ody and no issues with the penny...loved the iatty.....................sigh........just ordered native bases for the remaining 3 iattys we have left (we sold most of them for the Ithaka) from Italy so can't wait to test those out.

No, I am sure your use or care has no ill effect on the devices. I know how well you both take care of your "gear". I was just hinting maybe there was a quick run on a line and something was not caught by the machinest. The cnc machines can be very temperamental at times. It only takes a small bit of foreign material, metal or a finger to steer the machine into wonky mode until it is cleared. As much as you both know on the matter and GG exp. I dont think it is a matter if you are Ithaka people. Most of us agree on the Ody performance(loved the idea for the tip) and as I have said elsewhere here, the iAtty is the greatest GG atty not talked about on ECF.

 

[yankeebobo]

Aalwani. That photo is definite juice bubbled up on the oring and the light reflecting. But, I will take an ithaka, and make sure it's got a new post oring and back off. But where I'm left scratching my head is I've been building the ithakas since what, March? The odys, the Penelope's all get the same tension. Is the opening of the ithaka GG base where the post comes out less forgiving? Measuring would do me no good here as different attys will have different size holes. But the proportion of the hole size to the pos post diameter may be different.

I've got 8. I will figure this out. Could it be human error? Sure. I could be getting so ...... as hell right now and torquing it down. All 8? I don't leak out the Penelope. And I tighten it in similar fashion. And that is vaping just fine.

There is not a lot of give in the brass post of the JGG CT. The new CT has better delivery but I found out an "Achillies heal" (no pun intended). For those that have ithaka and another GG base device, you have to unscrew the brass pin, screw on the atty, test fire. Doesn't fire? Ok. Unscrew the atty, unscrew the brass pin some more, screw on the atty. fire. Rinse and repeat until you get it to fire. The old CTs pin had the atty go on and then the telescope adjustment settle the pin where it needed to be. The new screw system is nice and solid for conductivity but it reminds me of a couple other mods that are more complex. I hesitate in saying it actually took a step backward FUNCTIONALLY despite taking a step forward conductivity wise.

Add to that that the brass pin on the CT HAS to be screwed all the way down and the ithaka STILL manages to push the brass out the bottom? That is what I was referring to. I removed the brass extension pin on ithakas positive post and I'm still shoving the brass pin in the ct out the bottom. By about 1.5 mm. Give it take.

I took an ody rebuildable and put it in an ithaka body. Shorter pin. But the fine tuning to get those pins to meet without pushing the pin of the CT out the bottom is the flaw I found that I'm referring to. You can't swap GG bases of ithaka and another GG atty without fan dangling with that screw some.

I'm going to have to continue to figure out what the problem is. But keep in mind that it's been about 1-2 months of questionable performance. If this wasn't SS, I'd swear tolerance shifted.

 

[Mddally]

Yankeebobo look back at my original post I added where to get parts.
Yes when installed in base it shortens center pin height below the base I think it actually works better with just GG
In this configuration, if you try this remember the basic feed needs to be installed to match the Height the 2 washers raised the ceramic
assembly in ithaka, this is important for the mouthpiece to close all the way on the ceramic housing Assembly.
I won't be able to post am having knee surgery this morning will see if I can ck back tonight
Give it a try mine has never leaked again since I made this adjustment.

 

[fright88]

I found I had the same issue with the JGG pin until I stopped screwing the ceramic housing in tightly. I found if I just screw the housing in till I started getting resistance then going maybe another half turn raised the center pin enough so that it stopped pushing out the JGG pin.

I am a bit curious if it is possible the juice you are getting in the CT and on the base is from it coming out the center pin. I had similar issues but I found it was juice through the post and not theough the o-ring. I verified this by cleaning off all the juice and wrapping the post right below the o-ring but not extending down to the bottom on the center post with tissue paper. Then I put it in a tube to suspend it just a bit and put a seperate piece of tissue paper below the posative post. The piece that was below the post got juice but the piece wrapped around the post under the o-ring didn't.

 

[AdamAnd]

I don't use the brass adjustable post at all and of course take it off before putting on the O-ring it tends to shred it a bit in my experience. Hope you find a solution soon. just a joke but maybe we need a torque wrench I tighten mine really tight just like my Ody.

The size o the O-ring that I use is 1/8 x 1/4 x 1.16

 

[yankeebobo]

Yankeebobo look back at my original post I added where to get parts.
Yes when installed in base it shortens center pin height below the base I think it actually works better with just GG
In this configuration, if you try this remember the basic feed needs to be installed to match the Height the 2 washers raised the ceramic
assembly in ithaka, this is important for the mouthpiece to close all the way on the ceramic housing Assembly.
I won't be able to post am having knee surgery this morning will see if I can ck back tonight
Give it a try mine has never leaked again since I made this adjustment.

Don't worry about anything ECF:GG. You definitely have more important things. I will be giving this a go sometime soon.

 

[yankeebobo]

I've removed the brass pin a week or so ago. After some revelations showed what happens to the CT pin. So that is not a factor.
The juice is either coming out the oring or out the center post and traveling back to the top.
See pic. Below of the third one. Today is day 5 for the one pictured below. They work well and fail on day 5. Has anyone ever heard of anything so stupid? NO LEAKS until day 5. Smh.

ALSO keep in mind this is a NEW problem. I want to emphasize this. Until this leak is has not leaked out the bottom. Sure every now and then inks get a couple of drops depending on torque or out the center pin. THIS round started after I changed the orings to 17s and 18s. It's reacting like a bad pressure change internally.

 

[Itshak]

For it travel via inside the center post there should be left over evident
Inside the ceramic for that going on.
If not that leave o ring on center post?

 

[yankeebobo]

There is almost always some juice in the ceramic cup. Even if it's a little from the wick. The post I would think would have more on the pin in the collector tank than underneath the GG base.

Also a reminder, no water leaked out that same oring while it was tested. Some got into the ceramic and leaked out the post of course, but way we watched in the ithaka nothing out the oring. Then after sitting and waiting, the caps were put on. Only then did water come out the post. Nothing out the orings.