Ithaka official

[Itshak]

I don't know if there is a connection,but can it be that
The new problem start parallel to new way of coil built??(change of wick materials)
Can it be that cotton when sitting quite un used,in atty start sucking to much liquid
Into the atty chamber???
It's maybe a wild shot,but better cover all grounds.

 

[yankeebobo]

I haven't used silica since I've replaced all the orings. But I use cotton in all my attys. Penelope doesn't leak at all. Not a drop. Can I be sure about wicking material in ithaka? Of course not. But the setup is cotton ball one one and cotton yarn on my other.
What I CAN say is I've used silica traditionally before I swapped orings. It leaked out the too and bottom with silica and cotton. Nothing out the bottom. I changed the orings and now I have a problem below.

 

[Itshak]

Maybe cotton in some built configurations and the mod in some angle let juice flow
To much inside the atty chamber?
Working like a straw?

 

[Jojobo]

MDdally, you are in my thoughts and prayers for a successful surgery!! and a speedy recovery!

Yankeebobo look back at my original post I added where to get parts.
Yes when installed in base it shortens center pin height below the base I think it actually works better with just GG
In this configuration, if you try this remember the basic feed needs to be installed to match the Height the 2 washers raised the ceramic
assembly in ithaka, this is important for the mouthpiece to close all the way on the ceramic housing Assembly.
I won't be able to post am having knee surgery this morning will see if I can ck back tonight
Give it a try mine has never leaked again since I made this adjustment.

 

[imeothanasis]

The only I can think of is that center post is not sitting straight Idaho.

Yankee, put the 510 base on Ithaka and align the center pin please

Wow, As much as you and I have talked about this, I never envisioned such a mess. I applaud your drive. Most would of given up and never looked back to GG. I am ready to start a Yankeebobo Ithaka donation fund to replace your family Ithakas. Should of been done long ago. O-rings? Pff theres more to this than o-rings.
Imeo throw Yankee a bone buddy. He is a good friend and good for GG.

 

[imeothanasis]

new connector for CT is not a step backward but a step forward yankee. If you remember, the atomizers got shorted because of the center pin of GGTS because you screwed a lot the telescope. Now you dont have this problem. As for the pin that you have to screw it and unscrew it, you do it ONLY for Iatty and Ody native bases. Ithaka and all the rest of 510 atomizers in the market doesnt need any adjustment of center post.

When I made justGG, I had to think of all GG constructions and all 510 atomizers out there. So the best solution was given by this center post of justGG witch not only moves up and down automatically, but it also fits long post of Ithaka and shorter posts of Ody and Iatty with GGTS native bases. And we dont harm the 510 atomizers out there

Ithaka without its brass pin doesnt push the center post of CT out of its body. I thought that you knew that. Thats why I am saying that you have to remove brass pin of Ithaka before you put it on justGG.

There is no need for fine tuning yankee. You just put the center pin of justGG a little out and connection is established (you need to do that only with Ody and Iatty native bases and not on their 510 bases or for any 510 atomizer out there). Thats why I made center pin of justGG to move up and down. To avoid fine tuning that is impossible to be made by anyone. So pin was made to move. You dont need to find a way to make it not move because its made to move.

as for your leakage from the bottom, I am wondering why you post it on forum. You seem an experienced GG user so you had to find out easily that its the o-ring that cause the issue. Its not very difficult to see it. Just change the o-ring and align your center post.

It seems that you dont like anything GG those days lol

Aalwani. That photo is definite juice bubbled up on the oring and the light reflecting. But, I will take an ithaka, and make sure it's got a new post oring and back off. But where I'm left scratching my head is I've been building the ithakas since what, March? The odys, the Penelope's all get the same tension. Is the opening of the ithaka GG base where the post comes out less forgiving? Measuring would do me no good here as different attys will have different size holes. But the proportion of the hole size to the pos post diameter may be different.

I've got 8. I will figure this out. Could it be human error? Sure. I could be getting so ...... as hell right now and torquing it down. All 8? I don't leak out the Penelope. And I tighten it in similar fashion. And that is vaping just fine.

There is not a lot of give in the brass post of the JGG CT. The new CT has better delivery but I found out an "Achillies heal" (no pun intended). For those that have ithaka and another GG base device, you have to unscrew the brass pin, screw on the atty, test fire. Doesn't fire? Ok. Unscrew the atty, unscrew the brass pin some more, screw on the atty. fire. Rinse and repeat until you get it to fire. The old CTs pin had the atty go on and then the telescope adjustment settle the pin where it needed to be. The new screw system is nice and solid for conductivity but it reminds me of a couple other mods that are more complex. I hesitate in saying it actually took a step backward FUNCTIONALLY despite taking a step forward conductivity wise.

Add to that that the brass pin on the CT HAS to be screwed all the way down and the ithaka STILL manages to push the brass out the bottom? That is what I was referring to. I removed the brass extension pin on ithakas positive post and I'm still shoving the brass pin in the ct out the bottom. By about 1.5 mm. Give it take.

I took an ody rebuildable and put it in an ithaka body. Shorter pin. But the fine tuning to get those pins to meet without pushing the pin of the CT out the bottom is the flaw I found that I'm referring to. You can't swap GG bases of ithaka and another GG atty without fan dangling with that screw some.

I'm going to have to continue to figure out what the problem is. But keep in mind that it's been about 1-2 months of questionable performance. If this wasn't SS, I'd swear tolerance shifted.

 

[imeothanasis]

I wish you a very quick recovery Md!

Yankeebobo look back at my original post I added where to get parts.
Yes when installed in base it shortens center pin height below the base I think it actually works better with just GG
In this configuration, if you try this remember the basic feed needs to be installed to match the Height the 2 washers raised the ceramic
assembly in ithaka, this is important for the mouthpiece to close all the way on the ceramic housing Assembly.
I won't be able to post am having knee surgery this morning will see if I can ck back tonight
Give it a try mine has never leaked again since I made this adjustment.

 

[yankeebobo]

new connector for CT is not a step backward but a step forward yankee. If you remember, the atomizers got shorted because of the center pin of GGTS because you screwed a lot the telescope. Now you dont have this problem. As for the pin that you have to screw it and unscrew it, you do it ONLY for Iatty and Ody native bases. Ithaka and all the rest of 510 atomizers in the market doesnt need any adjustment of center post.

When I made justGG, I had to think of all GG constructions and all 510 atomizers out there. So the best solution was given by this center post of justGG witch not only moves up and down automatically, but it also fits long post of Ithaka and shorter posts of Ody and Iatty with GGTS native bases. And we dont harm the 510 atomizers out there

Ithaka without its brass pin doesnt push the center post of CT out of its body. I thought that you knew that. Thats why I am saying that you have to remove brass pin of Ithaka before you put it on justGG.

There is no need for fine tuning yankee. You just put the center pin of justGG a little out and connection is established (you need to do that only with Ody and Iatty native bases and not on their 510 bases or for any 510 atomizer out there). Thats why I made center pin of justGG to move up and down. To avoid fine tuning that is impossible to be made by anyone. So pin was made to move. You dont need to find a way to make it not move because its made to move.

as for your leakage from the bottom, I am wondering why you post it on forum. You seem an experienced GG user so you had to find out easily that its the o-ring that cause the issue. Its not very difficult to see it. Just change the o-ring and align your center post.

It seems that you dont like anything GG those days lol

I won't discuss the CT issue. Not going to go there. Because I still feel the good outweigh the one issue I found with it. And I already admitted it hits well. I only mentioned this because users will find a little more tuning between different GG bases. That's it.

The CT being pushed out. Brass pin is off. I'm not going to argue this long. But either I need a new eye doctor or this hasn't been noticed by anyone. And maybe my CTs are off by more than 2mm. But that brass pin is moving in the CT with just the SS post. Period.

Ithaka oring. I posted on the forum because there are people that are curious on my status with this. Well. Oring fixed the top, then oring fixed the bottom. And now it's pissing out the .... And I'm wondering what size I may need to try there. Is it a pressure change inside because I used different orings? I don't know. But it's leaking. Quite well.

I do like GG these days. I like older TS as it also hits well. My 605 hits pretty close to JGG. I like the ody, the Penelope, and the iatty (yes still). I'm not trying to insult you. For that I'm sorry. But I am really hating the ithaka right now. Your products from earlier days I love. Heck I adore immensely. You know where I stand there.

Right now I have better luck keeping juice in $10 bottles than $2k ithakas. Am I ....... You damn well know I'm ....... EVERYBODY knows hanging on by a thread to these ithakas trying to crack the issue. I certainly hope nobody is thinking I'm inventing this problem to complain....with all 8.

And I'm sorry. I will not post about this problem again on a public forum. I will figure something out. But laughing this off as a freakin "oring problem is not a problem" is not finding my sense of humor well these days. Ithaka stays home. In a shot glass where I should be drinking cognac out of. Not ejuice.

I'm sorry. Sometimes features and improvements are a good thing. And sometimes less is more. I'll take my 60s mustang over 2013 model. Ody worked. No pushing pins aside, no changing orings. No rubbing it like a damn genie I'm a bottle PRAYING it doesn't explode. It WORKED! And THAT I know other agree with.

Maybe my break wasn't long enough.

 

[Aal_]

Imeo I had to adjust the center pin of justgg one time because it wasn't making connection. What hapenend is that I was using an atomizer that pushed the pin down. And then I screwed another atomizer and it didn't fire since I was not using telescope. The spring was not hard enough to push the battery to push the pin up. I had to open the gg and push it by hand. It's not a big issue for me but I see how this can be annoying to some people going from ggts to just gg. It is really the feature of solid just gg (not using telescope) that caused this problem.

 

[xtreme101]

Imeo ~

How convenient of you to delete my post. Such power you have at your disposal. Some believe when a friend is hurting we feel that same pain. We are all frustrated by the many issues our dear friend Yankee has to put with. Shame on you.

 

[soulseek]

The new CT and new pin are one of the best things about the jGG. I can't believe anyone would argue otherwise.

If you're using different atomisers and if you're using the solid rings and if the pin needs adjustment, it's just a matter of unscrewing it and readjusting it. It's that simple.

The Ithaka centre pin is most certainly not being pushed up by the pin of the CT (if you've removed that brass pin). I checked various times and my eye sight is fine, good enough to realise that you're over-tightening your rebuildable on the ithaka base, causing it to leak and probably damaging the o ring in the process.

 

[soulseek]

Oh and yeah, it sucks getting your posts edited (like mine where when I was crying out about the engravings at the back).

I think it's that 99.9% of the people opposing my views on the silly engravings at the back have not posted ONE picture of their JGG showing them off; the majority of them will post it showing the front side.

 

[imeothanasis]

Ok, I have a suggestion yankee. I will pay the postal cost for your 8 Ithakas to me to inspect them. If I find something on them I will post it on forum. You dont use them too much as you said, so you dont have a problem to be apart with them. I will use rotating them for about 2 weeks. Is this fair?

I won't discuss the CT issue. Not going to go there. Because I still feel the good outweigh the one issue I found with it. And I already admitted it hits well. I only mentioned this because users will find a little more tuning between different GG bases. That's it.

The CT being pushed out. Brass pin is off. I'm not going to argue this long. But either I need a new eye doctor or this hasn't been noticed by anyone. And maybe my CTs are off by more than 2mm. But that brass pin is moving in the CT with just the SS post. Period.

Ithaka oring. I posted on the forum because there are people that are curious on my status with this. Well. Oring fixed the top, then oring fixed the bottom. And now it's pissing out the .... And I'm wondering what size I may need to try there. Is it a pressure change inside because I used different orings? I don't know. But it's leaking. Quite well.

I do like GG these days. I like older TS as it also hits well. My 605 hits pretty close to JGG. I like the ody, the Penelope, and the iatty (yes still). I'm not trying to insult you. For that I'm sorry. But I am really hating the ithaka right now. Your products from earlier days I love. Heck I adore immensely. You know where I stand there.

Right now I have better luck keeping juice in $10 bottles than $2k ithakas. Am I ....... You damn well know I'm ....... EVERYBODY knows hanging on by a thread to these ithakas trying to crack the issue. I certainly hope nobody is thinking I'm inventing this problem to complain....with all 8.

And I'm sorry. I will not post about this problem again on a public forum. I will figure something out. But laughing this off as a freakin "oring problem is not a problem" is not finding my sense of humor well these days. Ithaka stays home. In a shot glass where I should be drinking cognac out of. Not ejuice.

I'm sorry. Sometimes features and improvements are a good thing. And sometimes less is more. I'll take my 60s mustang over 2013 model. Ody worked. No pushing pins aside, no changing orings. No rubbing it like a damn genie I'm a bottle PRAYING it doesn't explode. It WORKED! And THAT I know other agree with.

Maybe my break wasn't long enough.

 

[imeothanasis]

Imeo ~

How convenient of you to delete my post. Such power you have at your disposal. Some believe when a friend is hurting we feel that same pain. We are all frustrated by the many issues our dear friend Yankee has to put with. Shame on you.

xtreme, no reason to open a conversation like this here. But your post was funny and there was no reason to exist. Also it didnt gave any info about anything.

I dont like to discuss it further please

 

[Aal_]

The new CT and new pin are one of the best things about the jGG. I can't believe anyone would argue otherwise.

If you're using different atomisers and if you're using the solid rings and if the pin needs adjustment, it's just a matter of unscrewing it and readjusting it. It's that simple.

The Ithaka centre pin is most certainly not being pushed up by the pin of the CT (if you've removed that brass pin). I checked various times and my eye sight is fine, good enough to realise that you're over-tightening your rebuildable on the ithaka base, causing it to leak and probably damaging the o ring in the process.

I did say I have a problem but I see how someone can. I'm vaping justgg with Ithaka right now. It is a masterpiece.

 

[imeothanasis]

sure aal. You can avoid this by using telescope. But I really dont see it as an issue. Its still a very quick way to make contact with any atomizer, by just pushing the pin and not try to screw a small center pole like the old days and also ruin the insulator around it

Imeo I had to adjust the center pin of justgg one time because it wasn't making connection. What hapenend is that I was using an atomizer that pushed the pin down. And then I screwed another atomizer and it didn't fire since I was not using telescope. The spring was not hard enough to push the battery to push the pin up. I had to open the gg and push it by hand. It's not a big issue for me but I see how this can be annoying to some people going from ggts to just gg. It is really the feature of solid just gg (not using telescope) that caused this problem.

 

[BmoreJeff]

yankee, if i read your posts correctly you have 8 ithakas, all which leak from the center pin hole on the base? i know your very well aware of how to setup up your ithakas and i know from seeing you on many gg threads that you are not new to rbas so i wont try and explain proper setup and what not. if all of your ithakas are doing the samething then its a common issue between them all and i cant see all 8 being defective or machined improperly. i only have 2 ithakas, and both do not leak at all, but i use a silica dual coil or quad coil setup in each. i have not tried the cotton wick. maybe it has something to do with that, but who knows. i see you said when you used silica it leaked so maybe not the problem.

i also saw you said it would start leaking after 5 days of use? if thats the case i can only see one or two reasons why that would happen. first would be from opening and closing juice control. maybe tightening it down to much then loosening it causes the rebuildable to slightly loosen and create a gap between base and oring? second, maybe the cotton is over wicking and flooding the ceramic, but highly unlikely.

let just call it as we see it, your ....... i can understand your frustration. i am going to do a build in a few minutes so maybe i will try cotton this time and see what i come up with. i dont have cotton balls so i wonder if i take apart a qtip if that would work or not? anywho, if you want i will send you one of my itakas and you can send me one of yours that leaks, by doing so maybe collectively we can figure out why yours is leaking and mine is not. pm me if you interested. just a thought, in the mean time, good luck and hopefully this will be resolved and youll be vaping those ithakas with no problems.

 

[yankeebobo]

Imeo. First off. I've got a bitter taste in my mouth over this whole thing. I'm not going to lie. But I will not be posting anything else on this matter again. My confidence on accurate reporting is a little sour right now. I've become bitter. I've noticed it. Jojo has noticed it.

Today I came home to an order from Bruce. So I have some parts to now swap out for the worst offending ithakas. And I measured them all. They are solid with no variance and all have 17x1 orings. Thank you for your offer. Before I commit to sending these to you, I will replace parts on some of them. If they fail, I will PM you directly. If they pass, I will order new parts (or we can coordinate privately replacement parts) and I will swap the remaining ithakas.

To all readers of this thread that have followed this issue, I apologize for my outward display. It is quite frustrating to watch everything you enjoy start becoming unenjoyable. Many know I love to experiment with different configurations and share results in a fun manner. I would much rather get this solved and spend any time I spend experimenting...not fixing. That's what I enjoy. And time has been spent elsewhere.

And for the record I don't have a sour taste to ALL GG contrary to Imeo's belief. I've posted a recent pic in the GG photos and even through all this I carry a stealth and Penelope in my pocket all day.

 

[AdamAnd]

I am just sorry i couldn't help the o-ring size i use on the bottom post is 1/8 x 1/4 x 1/16 and it was i my bag the whole time so sorry to my wife. I think when people have problems it makes everyone think which is good thing we must support each other nothing is perfect but we have to keep trying to get there. I want more airflow on my ithaka but that seems to piss everyone off but i understand i have two kids nothing really bothers me lol

 

[Ariel_MX]

~~~~ I have not had any leaking problems on any of my Ithakas ~~~~

Ithaka is very very easy to configure, the thing is start with a basic configuration and then move on to play with other "more advanced" functions or characteristics.

I'm just trying to share my thoughts and I can be totally wrong.

I'm not trying to cover all the possible configurations.



Ithaka leaking on connector area:

1.- Around center post (O-Ring is not sealing properly against the base).

2.- Through center post (air intake).

Possible causes:

1:

- Damaged O-Ring.
- Center post not aligning properly.
- Ceramic assembly not tighten enough (center post o-ring can not seal properly).
- Loose center post.

2:

When level of liquid in the tank is higher than the center post top nut and:


=== Center post top nut is in "closed" position*: ===

*New nut does not has an "open" or "closed" position, it is always in the "open" position

--Notice the old center post top nut is much taller, so it could help prevent the leaking through the center pin (air intake)--


-Thin wicks-
(basic liquid control in open position)


Liquid has free flow to the the small collector tank, as there is some space left by the wicks in the ceramic channels (gap), and basic liquid control slots are feeding the wicks (or the gap in the ceramic channels left by the wicks):

Eventually the small collector tank will become full of liquid, the liquid will then enter into the ceramic cup (through slots on basic liquid control and the gap left by the thin wicks in the ceramic channels) flooding it, finally the liquid will flow out through the center post (air intake), or through the mouthpiece.

If you are refilling, you keep filling, it will keep leaking.

If tank is closed, it doesn't matter, because there is a free path by which the liquid can flow out.


-Basic liquid control is in closed position-

After filling the tank and you open the mouthpiece, same behavior will occur, basic liquid control is closed but mouthpiece will open the "liberty path".



=== Center post top nut is in open position: ===


-Thin wicks-

Basic liquid control is open, mouthpiece is closed:


Liquid has free flow to the the small collector tank, through the basic liquid control and the gap left by the thin wicks in the ceramic channels.

While refilling, eventually the small collector tank will be completely filled, liquid has free access to the ceramic cup (by the bottom), as the center post top nut is in open position. If you keep filling, the liquid will then travel out through the center post (air intake) until you stop filling and until the liquid level inside the tank is below the top of the center post top nut (pressure balance).


Basic liquid control closed, mouthpiece closed (while refilling or after refill), no leaking should present (in theory), all paths through which the liquid could flow are closed, although all depends of the pressure and liquid density.



-Normal wicks-

Basic liquid control opened or closed.

No gaps left by the wicks in ceramic channels.

There is not a "free path to liberty".


After filling the tank, if the mouthpiece is opened too much, the excess liquid will enter inside the ceramic cup, as the center post top nut is configured in open position (or the new nut is used), liquid will enter into the small collector tank -through the ceramic cup insider notches-, if the small collector tank gets filled and the level of liquid still higher than the center post top nut, liquid will travel out through the center post (air intake).


Sometimes liquid flows out through the center pin (air intake) after or while closing the tank -while screwing the small tank top nut-, as we are pushing air inside the tank, the air pressure created inside will force the liquid to flow out through the easiest path, for example: through the slots of basic liquid control, to the ceramic cup channels (even when ceramic channels are filled with silica).

Of course, when atomizer is in vertical position liquid will flow out through the center pin inner hole, and when the atomizer is headlong the liquid could flow out through the mouthpice.


Liquid quantity (and viscosity) also play an important factor, as an example check this configuration:


* 3mm wick is used (ceramic channels are sealed with wick).

* Ithaka is configured in big mode (one or two additional upper bodies).

* Basic feeding control is in open position (it does not matter if it is configured to feed 4 channels, two channels, etc).

The pressure of the liquid on a full tank (and the air pressure when closing the tank) will force the liquid to travel out, you will notice it will stop leaking when the inside pressure is equal to the outside pressure.

That will not happen when the basic feeding control is configured in "closed position", because, the only path by which the liquid can flow is through the wicks, when we open the mouthpiece. Note we are using the appropriate wick size, so it will prevent the liquid to freely flow upwards the ceramic channels and downwards the ceramic channels to the small collector tank, even when the mouthpiece is opened a little. The proper wick size somehow compensates or holds the pressure.


----------------------------------
Always start with a basic configuration:

* 3mm wick.

* One turn of NR wire around the positive post is more than enough (more turns could lead to an o-ring deformation or to an off center center pin -improper sealing-).

* Do not over tight the ceramic assembly (it could lead to a o-ring deformation or to an off center center pin -improper sealing-)

* If you have installed the old center post top nut, configure it in closed position.

* Always trim the wicks before the positive o-ring (wick could get trapped between the positive o-ring and the base)

* Basic liquid control closed.

* Configure Ithaka in normal mode or in mini mode* (*if you have a Odysseus short mode mouthpiece or the new telescopic mouthpiece).

* Fill the tank with liquid.

* Slowly screw the small top cap nut (allows some pressure release).


- Play with the same above configuration but opening the basic liquid control (in 4 channels, 2 channels, etc.) and play advanced liquid control (mouthpiece), see how it works.

- If liquid is too thick, play with basic feeding control and advanced feeding control, install a thinner wick (2.5mm) and see how it works.

- Experiment with the center post top nut configured in open position and closed position (new small nut is always in open position).

* If you configure your Ithaka in medium or big mode, I recommend to configure the basic liquid flow control in closed position.


All is about a lot of factors, liquid viscosity, pressure, size of wick, controls configured, even when everything is configured right, if the joints on the wire are to big (manual joints) it could lead to problems, mood of user, divine inspiration.


While vaping the liquid gets evaporated, air has to enter inside the tank to replace the evaporated liquid. There is always a small air bag inside the tank, even when we fill the tank to its max capacity. As while vaping we move the atomizer in different positions, that air bag and liquid moves inside the tank and more air will eventually enter through the top of the center post, it will find its way to the tank to balance pressure.



Ithaka leaking at tank sections or at the base:

In my personal experience with 7 Ithakas (I have two, and the others are of friends). The default o-rings used to seal tank sections (16mm diameter x 1mm thick) work perfect, what I have seen is that there could be very tiny tolerance difference on the machining between Ithakas (in the order of 0.0x), those differences are absorbed by the o-rings, I have been experienced a leaking tank section only one time, it was due that specific tank section (top cap) was not tight enough to the next section (upper body), it moved a little while I was adjusting the liquid control, as the small top cap nut was very tight.

The solution in my case was to tighten properly the tank sections (of course, I do not mean it should apply to everyone having the same issue). I tighten the tank sections enough, so no o-rings are visible between each tank section.

I have noticed that the tank section with looser fit, is the engraved ring / base, although none of the Ithakas I have configured has presented any sign of leaking at that place.


I was thinking what will be better to solve the leaking tank sections problem:

Is it better to use a bigger diameter o-ring (as 17mm ID x 1mm CS)?

Or could it better to use a smaller diameter but thicker o-ring (as 15mm ID x 1.5 CS)?


Please excuse my bad english / redaction.