Ithaka official

[jliu]

still waiting to get approved for classifieds.

 

[Lentulusbatiatus]

Is the Brass airflow control ring one of the upgrades/extras Imeo as hinted at ?

 

[Kataphraktos]

Theres a great Ithaka for sale in the classifieds with a lot of extras for a great price, Just in case...........

Please stop staring at my third Ithaka, it's unseemly.

 

[yankeebobo]

Is the Brass airflow control ring one of the upgrades/extras Imeo as hinted at ?

It's a GGTS ring. Same thing. So if you find one it'll work.

 

[steliosss]

There are also some Ithaka's in stock at e-smokeguru

THE GOLDEN GREEK MODS :: The GG Devices :: Ithaka - e-smokeguru

 

[D Stanley Querfurth]

Is the Brass airflow control ring one of the upgrades/extras Imeo as hinted at ?

Imeo said he will make Brass airflow control rings with the rest of brass parts.
I asked him if he will make them, because my Idea was that my Just GG in Brass + Brass Cap would be nicer with a brass aircontrol ring on the Ithaka.

greetings
Stan

i got one ggts brass ring via a facebook swap->

 

[Itshak]

I'd like Ithaka 510 base without threads,
So I can use the JGG AR on Ithaka.
Maybe he'll do both.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I'd like Ithaka 510 base without threads,
So I can use the JGG AR on Ithaka.
Maybe he'll do both.

So you may use the Ithaka on a mod other than a justGG? Sacrilege!

 

[Itshak]

No Kata lol

I use only GG.

But on my wife Brass JGG I put Brass stealth cap!
She want's it all brass look, and I also prefer it this way.

Here is a picture :



For this configuration we must have 510 base for Ithaka!

 

[Kataphraktos]

I keed, I keed!

I've done exactly the same thing with my brass, so I'd end up buying one of these as well.

No Kata lol

I use only GG.

But on my wife Brass JGG I put Brass stealth cap!
She want's it all brass look, and I also prefer it this way.

Here is a picture :

View attachment 268814

For this configuration we must have 510 base for Ithaka!

 

[yankeebobo]

McMaster O-rings $50
COV Ithaka Parts $80
MDDally Method parts $6
Months of testing - frustration
No leaky Ithakas... Priceless

For everything else, there's MasterCard

(And a special thanks to Jojo for continuing to deal with broken living room windows)

 

[fright88]

Glad you finally got them to stop leaking Yankee!!

 

[Darkreign]

Yay Bo!!! Glad to hear you have found a resolution.

 

[anavidfan]

McMaster O-rings $50
COV Ithaka Parts $80
MDDally Method parts $6
Months of testing - frustration
No leaky Ithakas... Priceless

For everything else, there's MasterCard

(And a special thanks to Jojo for continuing to deal with broken living room windows)

Really? I hope you are kidding, if you spent that much on fixes, you could have bought another Ithaka.

 

[Aal_]

McMaster O-rings $50
COV Ithaka Parts $80
MDDally Method parts $6
Months of testing - frustration
No leaky Ithakas... Priceless

For everything else, there's MasterCard

(And a special thanks to Jojo for continuing to deal with broken living room windows)

Waiting anxiously for a full report

 

[yankeebobo]

Really? I hope you are kidding, if you spent that much on fixes, you could have bought another Ithaka.

That would have been the 9th, and wouldn't have solved these.

Waiting anxiously for a full report

In short, MDDally posted a suggestion of two additional washers a few pages back. It made all the sense in the world trapping the wire in a better fashion than just an oring. I should have thought of something similar after my original AC9 in my genesis days.

Had to replace some ithaka bases and tops which improved but didn't resolve. Added the washers and done.

 

[Jojobo]

We ended up putting 18 sized orings in the base and the top body and kept the 16 at the ss windows. 16 works fine there and 18 works for all 8 ithakas. The mddally fix not only stabilized the oring at the post but also made it so that the brass extension on the post of the ithaka is now used as well. Everything has been stable with all 8 ithakas for 5 days.

 

[TwilightMagester]

So I tried to search the thread for anyone with the same issue as me. (it's a big thread... I gave up)

Recently I've been having trouble with my ready wires from stormy's. They work fine for a few hours, and then one or both of them break. When I unscrew the setup to check it out sometimes the negative post (the part with the o ring? Yes?) has come slightly unscrewed. Now I'm not sure if it's because I'm removing the center construction from the base and it's coming undone or if it's tourqing the wires away when I'm screwing it in initially.

I've rebuilt this thing probably 20 times in the past week. Dual coils (2x 2.4ohm), with 3mm silica, or 2.5mm silica. It's always the same.

I've tried giving some slack to the wires before screwing it into the base, so even if the positive post comes undone it shouldn't pull on the wires, but never fail after a few hours one or both of them will break.

I used this successfully since I got my JustGG until about a week ago. I still have the brass center post part of the pin attached as well. (can I remove it and will it still make contact with the brass battery post?)

I've tried troubleshooting on my own, and now it's time for me to ask for help from you guys who are more experienced.

Thank you!

 

[Itshak]

Better to remove the CT screw the Ithaka then
Then screw back the CT to the battery tube.
Some times when you screw tight the Ithaka
with bigger baterry (it may push up the center post of the CT )
and the Ithaka without the brass nut,you may add one more 1/4 turn or less inside
To the rebuildble part in the Ithaka,this in turn may over tight one or two of the NR's

When you remove the CT and screw the Ithaka there is less pressure on the center post.

 

[TwilightMagester]

Yeah, when I remove the ithaka from the body I always screw it off with the CT first, then remove the ithaka from the CT.

Edit: also I use an 18650.thats what you mean by bigger battery right?