Ithaka official

[Itshak]

Nope,
There are diffrent 18650 sizes,what I ment is if your using the black cell
Like Orbotrinic or other Panasonic base cell they are a bit bigger then the 18650 AW's.
If you removed the CT and it still happen then try screw the CT center post a bit lower.
It may help.
On the other hand you can do one more thing,when you put the rebuildble part
In the GGTS base make sure you tight it as much as you can so it won't have room
For more turn,then when you put the the Ithaka in the GGTS it won't tight anymore.

Don't live extra lenght to the NR it is not a good Idea.

If all this wont do then those ready wire maybe not good for the job
and cannot tolerate extra tension ,I'll look for other
ready made wires maybe those from GG Greek seller,or if Cov is your preference
Try to PM Bruce to see when he will have those.

 

[TwilightMagester]

True I forgot about the different 18650 sizes. I'm using the Green Panasonic NCR18650PD's (not the latest revision, flat top) I believe they're the same size as the red AW IMR 18650 's with button top.

I did just successfully rebuild my coils again (yet again I should say) but I ordered a bunch of R and NR wire from eBay and I'll try to wrap my own when they come in. Oddly enough the wire that went out was broke in the middle of the res. That's a first.

The extra length in the NR is very small, 1 to 1.5mm max and I made sure to keep it really close to the post but not touching any metal.

Next time I rebuild it (hopefully longer than a few hours) I'm going to remove the brass post from the atomizer and then try your method using the CT post adjuster.

Thanks for the help Itshak!

 

[Itshak]

No problem TwilightMagester we all support or get support here,
and there is always what to learn this is part of the fun that we did not had in analog days.
One more thing as you mentioned your R was cut in the middle ( very odd)
There maybe over tightening over there or there was a spot that was not in contact with
The wick and e juice ??
Tight it less and make real sure all R wire is in full contact with the wick n juice.
I'm sure that in very short time all will turn for the better.
Keep open eye on the threads here,there are some vey good tips to catch almost everyday.

 

[TwilightMagester]

Haha yeah that's why I love being a part of the GG community now.

It's the first and only time it's ever happened (R wire breaking in the middle). I'm pretty careful about making sure the wire touches the wick, but not over tightening it. I pulse it too so I can see that they glow evenly, I've had problems in the past with other Rba's. So I'm just going to chalk it up to a faulty wire.

 

[gtbb]

I would blame the wire as well. It could have been kinked at the broken spot at one time.

 

[soulseek]

Just had one of the new clear windows crack after a week of use. Any idea when the steel windows are coming back in stock, kind of tired of paying for new clear ones all the time.

 

[anavidfan]

Speaking of Ithaka clear windows, I have the Ody clear window for the expansion pack and they are so much more sturdy than the Ithaka ones. The threads are thicker and the material is thicker and harder. Ive had the Odys ones in use with all sorts of juice including some that are known to be tank crackers and they have not cracked, The Ithaka one in the first week of use cracked at the area where the threads meet the straight sides.

I did glue it with super glue, and still use it, but I wish the Ithaka clears were made the same as the Ody clear tank extensions.

 

[yankeebobo]

Did kir fanis make the ody ones? I know he made the penny and iatty windows.

 

[anavidfan]

I dont know, I had the Fanis extra tanks for Odys, but the ones that were for the extension or full mode were different. They are opaque when empty but clear with liquid in them.

 

[yankeebobo]

There are new machine companies that were recruited. Hence my comments about changes in the past. I don't know.

 

[fright88]

So I tried to search the thread for anyone with the same issue as me. (it's a big thread... I gave up)

Recently I've been having trouble with my ready wires from stormy's. They work fine for a few hours, and then one or both of them break. When I unscrew the setup to check it out sometimes the negative post (the part with the o ring? Yes?) has come slightly unscrewed. Now I'm not sure if it's because I'm removing the center construction from the base and it's coming undone or if it's tourqing the wires away when I'm screwing it in initially.

I've rebuilt this thing probably 20 times in the past week. Dual coils (2x 2.4ohm), with 3mm silica, or 2.5mm silica. It's always the same.

I've tried giving some slack to the wires before screwing it into the base, so even if the positive post comes undone it shouldn't pull on the wires, but never fail after a few hours one or both of them will break.

I used this successfully since I got my JustGG until about a week ago. I still have the brass center post part of the pin attached as well. (can I remove it and will it still make contact with the brass battery post?)

I've tried troubleshooting on my own, and now it's time for me to ask for help from you guys who are more experienced.

Thank you!

1st make sure your center pin is very tight. If you are using the old taller ceramic nut with the slot use a screwdriver and either some pliers or grab the pin with a rubber band.

2nd Lube that bottom o-ring well. When this o-ring isn't lubed properly it can catch on the base and when you unscrew the ceramic housing it can cause the center pin to become loose.

3rd Don't over tighten the ceramic housing into base/basic feeding. You should be able to tell when the o-ring comes in contact with the base when you are screwing the housing down. Once you feel the contact only go another 1/2 to 2/4 of a turn. There is no reason to torque this piece in as tight as it will go.

I know you've been using it a while and have had good luck I only bring up these things because if the center pin is coming loose when you remove it it is because of one of the 3 above 99% of the time. Also if your pin is a little loose when you first install the ceramic housing it can cause the posative wires to snap. Finally make sure your wires are nice and tight in the slots and against the pin ect. Finally if the above don't help and you have a multimeter with a continuity checker turn it to that and touch 1 pead to the center pin and 1 to the threads on the ceramic housing with no wires installed. If it beaps you have a short. This can be caused by the pin being off center so try to re position it when you tighten it down. (BTW I have only heard of 1 person having this issue in the past)

 

[justinred]

Speaking of Ithaka clear windows, I have the Ody clear window for the expansion pack and they are so much more sturdy than the Ithaka ones. The threads are thicker and the material is thicker and harder. Ive had the Odys ones in use with all sorts of juice including some that are known to be tank crackers and they have not cracked, The Ithaka one in the first week of use cracked at the area where the threads meet the straight sides.

I did glue it with super glue, and still use it, but I wish the Ithaka clears were made the same as the Ody clear tank extensions.

I have broken an Ithaka clear tank too at the same spot you mentioned.

 

[anavidfan]

Oh, mine didnt break clean off so I was able to super glue it. I put a tiny micro drop with a needle so I wouldnt get it in the threads, wiped off quickly and let it dry for an hour. Then I rinsed it with lots of hot water.

I wasnt even cranking it down hard. I just grabbed it like usual, light firm hold and it cracked. I now use latex gloves to put my tank parts together, adds just enough grip to take parts apart with out having to hurt my wrists and still allow for a good tight fit.

 

[Idaholandho]

Did kir fanis make the ody ones? I know he made the penny and iatty windows.

He does in theses sizes 23mm 27mm 30mm 47mm (Big Mode) Includes one tank

Kir Fanis Mods - Avid Vaper

Note - when storing plastic tanks, no matter manufacturer. I lube them with Vaseline.
When in use I lube the threads with the same.

 

[steliosss]

I have broken an Ithaka clear tank too at the same spot you mentioned.

Is that the new clear window imeo made?
If you managed to crack it, I dont think any other non steel window will survive!!!

 

[Kataphraktos]

I never use plastic windows for any tank cracker juices. They all crack and break, and quickly.

That's why 2 of my 3 Ithakas are SS window only. One is dedicated to Pluid (arriving this week in the mail), the other to Maha Ras. The 3rd Ithaka rotates all my other juices, which are safe in plastic.

 

[justinred]

Cracking clear window because of juice versus breaking one due to normal use is different. I use the same juice for ithakha, penelope and odysseus but ithaka is the weakest and broke. Of course it is no comparison since ody and penelope tanks are from kir while ithaka tank is the original from imeo.

 

[soulseek]

Didn't know Kir Fanis made clear windows for Ithaka. Thank's guys gonna buy them instead, they're apparently 2mm taller which is a bonus. Don't trust the ones by Imeo any more and I can't wait for steel windows.

 

[Idaholandho]

Cracking clear window because of juice versus breaking one due to normal use is different. I use the same juice for ithakha, penelope and odysseus but ithaka is the weakest and broke. Of course it is no comparison since ody and penelope tanks are from kir while ithaka tank is the original from imeo.

So, you are describing normal wear and tear and environmental differences such as air temp, sunlight exposure, contents, handling, etc..

I have dos plastic tanks on Ithaka's in use as of now. One is at least 13 months old and it is still looking terrific and holding juice. The other? no idea.

At some point we have to realize that a cracked tank is a cracked tank. Buy another whether from Boss Imeo or Kir Fanis.

This far far from the nightmare of Yankeestud's which no one of us wishes to experience. < needs a freaking vaping medal of honor.

 

[anavidfan]

He does in theses sizes 23mm 27mm 30mm 47mm (Big Mode) Includes one tank

Kir Fanis Mods - Avid Vaper

Note - when storing plastic tanks, no matter manufacturer. I lube them with Vaseline.
When in use I lube the threads with the same.

I checked Avid Vaper and didnt see the tanks for Ithaka