Ithaka official

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imeothanasis

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exactly like this yosi. My english are not good as you see by yourself, so I see why Scott cant understand what I am trying to say there. Thanks a lot for the explanation
I'll take a shot...the two holes would have each hole directly under each coil for duals and if you use one coil centered like an X then you can align the two holes to be under that one coil...I think?
 

imeothanasis

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There is no reason to align the holes every time, only when you want to make a single coil Scott. But Ithaka works like a dream without aling the holes because the mouthpiece has a 4mm hole so air that comes from the 2 holes of center pin's nut (they have 4mm distance each other) hits the coils every time. I just made those holes to make Ithaka vape better with 2 coils. But it vapes very well too with 1 coil because of the distance between holes. Also, if you want to align the 2 holes, you can unscrew a little this new but (the one with the 2 holes on it) and screw it again in another place. Its a less than 1 min work. Maybe the small cut on the nut that you didnt see (because it doesnt exists yet), makes you wonder how easy you can adjust holes. But this cut will exist on the production line
Well. that's kind of the impression I got too, but that's where the confusion sets in ... I thought the center ceramic nut was to hold the ceramic in place in the housing; if it is tightened down properly to secure the ceramic in the housing, how can you loosen/tighten it to align the air holes?
 

imeothanasis

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a simple screwdriver Beco. But I forgot to make the "screwdriver cut" on this new part. I can make another update if you like. We can totally secure the center post against ceramic with a small nut and put this new nut on it. That way we can align holes easier. Thats not a problem. But it wouldnt be very easy to screw hard the small nut. Odysseus has a small nut like this and its not very easy to screw hard this nut inside ceramic.
I also don't understand how can you turn it and with what tool
 
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imeothanasis

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no dense at all buddy.! You question had a meaning and we have a solution about this. We can make it as you like it better
OK, now that you mention the "screwdriver cut," it all starts to make sense! Thanks, Imeo, for the explanation ... sorry to be so dense! :laugh:
 

yankeebobo

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Imeo. Couple questions. Remember I am comparing to iAtty as well.

1. With the two holes, have you confirmed it still has no leak in Ithaca regardless of how you have it? IAtty sometimes has small leak.
2. The extra notches help answer question I had weeks ago on wire slipping on post adjustment, etc. I believe someone else also mentioned the wire slipping possibly. But...have you tested adjusting the post height? I can see the wire being in the new channel cuts, you may be able to adjust the post a little, but I would imagine making too many turns would either cut the wire or untwist and shift it out of the channel and possibly breaking the connection.
 

imeothanasis

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Ithaka doesnt leak for 2 reasons Yankee

1 and minor reason: The smaller holes on this new part (1mm each and not 1,5 as the center post), doesnt allow liquid go easy on them

2 and major reason: If you remember from the first Ithaka'a video, the ceramic has a new design on its bottom (with a cut) that allows the liquid to go to the second "tank" that Ithaka has. That way the liquid doesnt go high on the ceramic until it reach the center post and let liquid go inside it, but it goes inside the second tank where it feeds again the wick with liquid. Its a 2 tank system where the liquid makes a circle without reaching the center post's hole

You cant adjust the center post after you put wires on it, you have to do that before. But why you want to adjust the pole? Maybe I didnt understand well your question so my answer doesnt help you much
 

yankeebobo

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Ithaka doesnt leak for 2 reasons Yankee

1 and minor reason: The smaller holes on this new part (1mm each and not 1,5 as the center post), doesnt allow liquid go easy on them

2 and major reason: If you remember from the first Ithaka'a video, the ceramic has a new design on its bottom (with a cut) that allows the liquid to go to the second "tank" that Ithaka has. That way the liquid doesnt go high on the ceramic until it reach the center post and let liquid go inside it, but it goes inside the second tank where it feeds again the wick with liquid. Its a 2 tank system where the liquid makes a circle without reaching the center post's hole

You cant adjust the center post after you put wires on it, you have to do that before. But why you want to adjust the pole? Maybe I didnt understand well your question so my answer doesnt help you much

Ah, i do remember that "overflow". Ok.

As for center pole, if one isn't using a GG mod, then moving from one mod to another MAY need to be adjusted. Moving from anither mod to GG wont be a probkem because the adjustable pin on GG as well. But it seems that if the positive terminal on the mod is that drastic, a rebuild would be necessary. This is not a problem for us as we generally use the same mods for the GG RBAs, but I was wondering. I don't believe it would happen often.
 

jmarkus

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Ah, i do remember that "overflow". Ok.

As for center pole, if one isn't using a GG mod, then moving from one mod to another MAY need to be adjusted. Moving from anither mod to GG wont be a probkem because the adjustable pin on GG as well. But it seems that if the positive terminal on the mod is that drastic, a rebuild would be necessary. This is not a problem for us as we generally use the same mods for the GG RBAs, but I was wondering. I don't believe it would happen often.

i could be wrong, but i believe the adjustable center pin moves independent from the center post assembly. in the video he showed that theres a small screw post that attaches to the assembly at the bottom, unscrewing it to make it longer, screwing it to make it shorter doesnt turn the assembly at all. so i dont think youd ever need to rebuild just because you switched to a different mod with a lower or higher positive contact point.
 
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imeothanasis

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I still dont understand Yankee, I am really sorry for my english. But what adjustments someone would need? Center post is adjustable so Ithaka can fit in any mod. And Ithaka will always sit flush on all mods without a gap. It doesnt need a gap to breath because it has its own adjustable air control
Ah, i do remember that "overflow". Ok.

As for center pole, if one isn't using a GG mod, then moving from one mod to another MAY need to be adjusted. Moving from anither mod to GG wont be a probkem because the adjustable pin on GG as well. But it seems that if the positive terminal on the mod is that drastic, a rebuild would be necessary. This is not a problem for us as we generally use the same mods for the GG RBAs, but I was wondering. I don't believe it would happen often.
 

imeothanasis

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ah, now I see what Yankee wants to know Markus. Yes, you are right, center pin moves independent from the center post assembly
i could be wrong, but i believe the adjustable center pin moves independent from the center post assembly. in the video he showed that theres a small screw post that attaches to the assembly at the bottom, unscrewing it to make it longer, screwing it to make it shorter doesnt turn the assembly at all. so i dont think youd ever need to rebuild just because you switched to a different mod with a lower or higher positive contact point.
 
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