Ithaka Pre-Order
or
THE GOLDEN GREEK MODS :: Ithaka Preorder :: Ithaka Preorder - e-smokeguru
the orders will go for a month and ship in a month or less after.
Ithaka official
- Thread starter imeothanasis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- provari
- Status
Ithaka Pre-Order
or
THE GOLDEN GREEK MODS :: Ithaka Preorder :: Ithaka Preorder - e-smokeguru
the orders will go for a month and ship in a month or less after.
Get a spare ceramic or two, and the drip tip mouthpiece if you want to use your own drip tip.
Ithaka
## My Ithaka just cleared customs here in New Delhi , India and should be with me within the next 48 hours -, prolly the 1st GG product in India .
Nope, been vaping GGs exclusively for the last year now here in Bombay!
Welcome to the Indian GG club Sahil! You are the 3rd GG user in India as far as I know.
Ithaka with 8 mls of juice. Dual parallel coils @ 1Ω. Now that I thought I knew my way around this bad boy, I hear there is a way to secure the negative wires...
Kwalka - How did you secure the neg? Ody style? Definitely reverse order the setup. Neg first.
Yes I just laid them in the channels, and I was thinking as I was trying to keep everything in order, geez it would be cool if there was a way to secure these negatives.
Yes I just laid them in the channels, and I was thinking as I was trying to keep everything in order, geez it would be cool if there was a way to secure these negatives.
And all of a sudden, VOILA!
Imeo but with Penelope I used a bottle and it was ok. With ithaka it pools up immediately and can't get the liquid down.
Oh and that is a helluva extension. Which MP did you use to gain the length? Ody exp?
Does the double window set up require the long mode mouthpiece?Ithaka with 8 mls of juice. Dual parallel coils @ 1Ω. Now that I thought I knew my way around this bad boy, I hear there is a way to secure the negative wires...
Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
I think It depends on how much wick is used. At the moment most people are using long wicks, both channels are full from top to bottom. Opening these 2 holes should act like a drain-off for any flooding in the ceramic.
A short top-mounted wick just across the openings at the top, closed would be the way to go. If you left them open liquid would flood the bottom of the ceramic cup.
It depends on how its wicked. The new style inner post should help stop most gurgling issues in the cup. Since it has less surface area for liquid to pool up.
Hi guys. I am having this problem when filling my Ithaka. I open both the small and big top caps, fill, close the big one and slowly close the small one, but still get a lot of liquid in the centeal air hole. I wonder how this liquid ends up there. Would appreciate any tips or tricks on this issue. Thanks every1
Ok, I think I may have found a design flaw here. I take the top caps off, and fill ithaka with water. (I have the liquid control closed). Water is dripping out of the central air hole. Where does this water come from? It is getting into the rebuildable part from the two cuts or holes of the basic feeding, and then fills up the base and then finds its way into the ceramic until the level of water goes higher than the central nut in the ceramic and finally drains out of the central hole. EVEN IF I CLOSE THE BASIC FEEDING, this is still happening, with slower speed of course. I think it would be a good idea for imeo to make that part (the one that has the two cuts in it for the basic feeding) WITHOUT THE CUTS, we could use that when we DONT WANT THE BASIC FEEDING AT ALL, and use the original one with the cuts when we want the basic feeding
That kind of sounds like where the base of the MP seats against the the top of the basic feeder is letting some liquid pass through.
You should be able to see bubbles coming out of the leaky spot when you start removing the caps.
I have my basic feeding open and it makes quite a big wet spot on the paper towel that I'm holding it with,
I haven't tried with basic feeding closed as yet.
You should be able to see bubbles coming out of the leaky spot when you start removing the caps.
I have my basic feeding open and it makes quite a big wet spot on the paper towel that I'm holding it with,
I haven't tried with basic feeding closed as yet.
Last edited:
Ithaka 1556 has been with me now for 7 days, I guess I should post some stuff about what I think about it.
The thing I like the very most is the GGTS base, after that comes the tank top cap and grounding nut followed by the dual wick/coil capability.
Other than when refilling it hasn't leaked a drop.
Here's where it goes a little sideways, all of the coil builds so far have been good, vapor production is extremely good especially with dual coils but I'm having trouble getting the flavor as good or better than Oddy(well Oddy clone), but I'm almost there now, I feel it's what I'm doing or not doing that is making it this way.
Any ideas?
The thing I like the very most is the GGTS base, after that comes the tank top cap and grounding nut followed by the dual wick/coil capability.
Other than when refilling it hasn't leaked a drop.
Here's where it goes a little sideways, all of the coil builds so far have been good, vapor production is extremely good especially with dual coils but I'm having trouble getting the flavor as good or better than Oddy(well Oddy clone), but I'm almost there now, I feel it's what I'm doing or not doing that is making it this way.
Any ideas?
No, That's impossible. The mouthpiece (liquid control) is tightly closed and nothing is getting through. I am 100% sure of what I said in my prevous post. The cuts (holes) of the basic feeding are causing the problem (specially with thinner juices) by letting liquid get into the base, fill the base completely with liquid, and then the liquid finds its way into the ceramic through the cuts at the buttom of the ceramic when you have them open by the central nut in the ceramic, and then the liquid fills the ceramic half-way until the level of the liquid reaches the top of the nut, and then the liquid drains out of the central air hole...
I tried closing the holes with some aquarium silicone and the liquid stayed in the tank and there was NO leaks...
Imeo please respond. Thanks
So far I think that more may not be better in this case. I realized that the flavor was more intense with the Ody clone by using a smaller diameter wick (1.5 vs 2mm). I haven't rebuilt since the first day of using my Ithaka, but I will be trying to use a 2.5 or even 2mm if I can get away with it. The vapor will be less, but if the flavor is right then that's all I'm after personally. So far on Doolak's (vaporbase.de) silica I've had no leaking/wicking issues at all. Flavor is great, but tends to fade when I chain vape. I almost didn't reply since I've barely begun to explore all the possibilities. The silica that was included looks to be top-notch and I'll be trying it out at some point for sure
I have noticed that restricting the air tends to draw more fluid into the wick. This may be obvious to some, but maybe not to others; wanted to put that out there
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
