Ithaka official
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A few quick questions for you Imeo. I was wondering, once the pre-order ends when we could expect out ithikas arriving to our doors. Also, any word on when new GGTS's will be for available? Thanks!
Why no one wants to answer my question(((
For dual I think 3mm is perfect, some even use the 2.5mm.
For quad setups 1.5mm should be good, there are some Bishoheals videos in which he configures Ithaka with quad coils, if I remember correctly, he uses 1.5mm for quad coils, with some strands in between.
=== Edit (I think I misunderstood the question) ===
-My personal conclutions-
All depends of some factors, as final resistance you want to achieve, the total current and the battery you will use, etc.
For dual I use 34awg, I have never built quad coils, but I think that 36awg should be good.
For example, I like dual coils with final resistence of 1 ohm, each coil should be 2 ohms, if I used 32awg wire the coils would be too long (more material to heat), with 34 awg I got 5 coil turns around 3mm wick, maybe I could even try with 36awg wire, that will provide less turns than when using 34 AWG, so less material to heat.
Also I think is a good idea make the coils be as close as possible (each turn), so they will be just up the air intake, so air will hit the coils directly.
For single coils I use Kanthal 32 AWG.
It is just a matter of experimentation.
I just bought some different sizes of ribbon Kanthal to experiment.
Maybe the master of experimentation and coils building (Bishopheals) could answer your question better than me, he has tried a lot of configurations, wire gauges, single, dual, quad coils, etc.
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1 more month after preorders finish icig my friend. As for GGTS - Stealth, in less than 1 month they will be ready
Not a bad idea markus. We can put this item on preorders, together with steel windows and adapter for atomizers inside Ithaka
Maybe a smooth aircontrol ring but with a couple (2) of those discrete but useful cuts like the ones Ithaka has on its base and small top cap nut? And also for GGTS connector base and the little button locking ring
Also I was wondering how the wings GG logo would look at the same position but horizontaly and below the "The GG" lengend, and in the other side, close to the bottom the "by Imeo" and below the serial number also horizontaly positioned.
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I'm BAAAAACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi All After a long and tiresome few months I have finally acquired an Ithaka and now must seriously consider locating a GG to put it on even though it does sit and look very very beautifully on my Poldiac.
Imeo my Friend I had no doubts whatsoever when you announced the Ithaka that it would be amazing and I am happy to say that you were Spot On my Friend. This Atomizer is once again a work of pure genius. I have mine built with dual coils measuring 1 Ohm total resistance and it is working flawlessly and looking great on my Poldiac Ithaka #1498 Greek Engineering at it's finest
Very Very Very Well Done my Friend;
Sincerely;
Nate
Hi All
After a long and tiresome few months I have finally acquired an Ithaka and now must seriously consider locating a GG to put it on even though it does sit and look very very beautifully on my Poldiac.Imeo my Friend I had no doubts whatsoever when you announced the Ithaka that it would be amazing and I am happy to say that you were Spot On my Friend. This Atomizer is once again a work of pure genius. I have mine built with dual coils measuring 1 Ohm total resistance and it is working flawlessly and looking great on my Poldiac
Ithaka #1498 Greek Engineering at it's finest
Very Very Very Well Done my Friend;
Sincerely;
Nate
Hmm, I'm actually a pretty big fan of the knurled ring. I would love to see some matte finish GGTS/Ithaka pieces, though (including a matte ring)! I still would like to sand some down myself for a nice matte finish but I'm terrified of putting sand paper to my beautiful GG pieces!
I wouldn't want the entire GGTS/Ithaka to be matte, though.. but every other piece would look fantastic!
I wouldn't want the entire GGTS/Ithaka to be matte, though.. but every other piece would look fantastic!
i actually think a smooth air control ring doesnt even need the discrete notches since its so easy to turn, all smooth would look gorgeous. just my
whats up devon, long time no talk!!!
Hey there Jmarkus
Yeah I have been all over the place and back the past 6 or so months. I am really loving this Ithaka right now. I have built it three different times in three different configurations and right now a single 1.4 ohm coil with the extra wick going over top of it is definitely my favorite thus far thanks a lot Devon my friend. We miss you here buddy!
. We miss you here buddy!
I'm BAAAAACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi All
Imeo my Friend I had no doubts whatsoever when you announced the Ithaka that it would be amazing and I am happy to say that you were Spot On my Friend. This Atomizer is once again a work of pure genius. I have mine built with dual coils measuring 1 Ohm total resistance and it is working flawlessly and looking great on my Poldiac
Very Very Very Well Done my Friend;
Sincerely;
Nate
we can make preorders for all the items you mention guys. I can make everything you like for Ithaka when this batch finish
I'm having an issue with the adjustable brass pin, I would say.
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
Mal comune mezzo gaudio?
It does this on both my Provaris, standard and mini. My two Pennys still slide wonderfully into provari's 510 pin, so I suppose it's an issue with the adjustable pin, also considering it has become difficult to screw and unscrew.
As we have already said, you need a cleaning on threads of adjustable pin and on center pin of Ithaka my friend Lo. But maybe the cleaning of center pin is enough. What you have to do is to unscrew the brass pin and clean the threads of the center pin. Stucked liquid prevents the smooth screwing. Also, if you see that you sill have an issue, then screw and when you feel resistance and Ithaka is still not flush with your mod, then unscrew 1/4 turn and screw again
I'm having an issue with the adjustable brass pin, I would say.
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
View attachment 206680
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
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As we have already said, you need a cleaning on threads of adjustable pin and on center pin of Ithaka my friend Lo. But maybe the cleaning of center pin is enough. What you have to do is to unscrew the brass pin and clean the threads of the center pin. Stucked liquid prevents the smooth screwing. Also, if you see that you sill have an issue, then screw and when you feel resistance and Ithaka is still not flush with your mod, then unscrew 1/4 turn and screw again
Aha, thank you very much.
I'll try to clean the threads, though I don't think this is the problem, when I prepare a new res I always unmount Ithaka completely and wash every single part - it was clean, but I'll give it a try.
If it still sticks unscrewing and screwing again will be the second option.
Thanks!
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