no problem Lo zio, I am happy to help. Also you can lubricate a little with vaseline the threads of the center pin
Ithaka official
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3weeks on the same dual x-coil..reistance at 1.3ohms. When it turns janky...dry burn...refill just like new. This thing is unbelievable...now to get a nice brass driptip for the 510 mouthpiece. My brass chi is going to look pimp
What you have to do is to unscrew the brass pin and clean the threads of the center pin. Stucked liquid prevents the smooth screwing. Also, if you see that you sill have an issue, then screw and when you feel resistance and Ithaka is still not flush with your mod, then unscrew 1/4 turn and screw again
... done the cleaning but it didn't help (as Lo zio wrote the issue showed only after disassembling, washing and reassembling Ithaka)
but unscrewing a little bit and screwing again did it
You are very welcome My Friend, it is good to be back
VAPE FACE!!!!!!!!! 0.9 Ohm Single Coil!!!!
I also Ran into this problem with the center pin adjuster so I took the brass adjustable pin off and put it back on the right way up LOL Mine was user error I had the Non Slotted end pointing towards the Ithaka instead of towards the Mod
Sincerely;
Nate
VAPE FACE!!!!!!!!! 0.9 Ohm Single Coil!!!!
I also Ran into this problem with the center pin adjuster so I took the brass adjustable pin off and put it back on the right way up LOL Mine was user error I had the Non Slotted end pointing towards the Ithaka instead of towards the Mod
Sincerely;
Nate
just great jk
dont use brass tips, they are not healthy buddy
Thanks for headsup
I'm having an issue with the adjustable brass pin, I would say.
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
View attachment 206680
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
Mine will do that on my Provari sometimes. What I do is screw it on as far as it will go. If it's not flush unscrew it about 1/4-1/2 turn or so and screw back in. Check if it's flush. If it's not, repeat the partial unscrewing and screw it back in. It will eventually sit flush doing this. Don't know if that's the "right" way to do it, but it gets the job done for me.
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You are very welcome My Friend, it is good to be back
VAPE FACE!!!!!!!!! 0.9 Ohm Single Coil!!!!
I also Ran into this problem with the center pin adjuster so I took the brass adjustable pin off and put it back on the right way up LOL Mine was user error I had the Non Slotted end pointing towards the Ithaka instead of towards the Mod
Sincerely;
Nate
Great shot Nate - reminds of the old "Where's Waldo" posters...
Hehehe Thanks my Friend, yeah I can honestly that this bugger puts out some serious vapor, and the flavor is great even with a brand new wick, I can only imagine how good it will taste once it breaks in properly
I'm having an issue with the adjustable brass pin, I would say.
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
View attachment 206680
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
Maybe you don't have the auto feeder screwed low enough. I never have this problem on my provari. Just my two cents.
I'm having an issue with the adjustable brass pin, I would say.
It worked flawlessly until today, when I cleaned Ithaka and made a new coil. I've heard a couple of people complaining about the adjustable pin, but for me it was a big win, just adjusting its height to the connector of the mod Ithaka sits on.
It doesn't anymore:
View attachment 206680
This is about how deep I am now able to screw Ithaka on my Provari (both of them) - it's making contact, yes, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with this situation; 510 threads are not the ideal threads in terms of strength, having Ithaka not even in contact with the top of the provari really bothers me. If i try to screw further it simply won't move (perhaps a couple of mm more), and it's actually pretty hard to unscrew already - I do not want to force.
Trying to screw manually the adjustable pin in and out reveals in fact that at a certain point it encounters some resistance.
Any suggestions?
PS: nope, unfortunately I don't have a GGTS....
Troubleshooting.
1 Start off by taking the 510 base off the Ithaka so all you have is the base and air controll ring and try to screw it on your mod. If it does then the problem is with something above. if it doesn't clean the 510 threads really well maybe with a wire brush or a brillo pad. Try again if it still doesn't screw all the way down try it on another mod if it works on other mods it is likely the provari. If not you may need to get a replacement or have the 510 threads re tapped.
2 If the base screws all the way down take a look at the bottom of the Ithaka specifically where the brass adjustable pin meets the SS pin it screws on to. You should see it screws up flush. If there is a little gap try working the threads by unscrewing it and rescrewing it. If you can't remove the gap remove the brass part and try to clean up the ss pin's threads and wash out the brass pin's threads really well. If you still can't remove the gap you may have a faulty part. If there is no gap try to screw it onto the 510 base while it is on your mod. If it doesn't screw on all the way go to step 3.
3 Last thing to try
Drain your tank. Mount the 510 base flush onto the mod you are planning on using (by itself) . Then take the tank portion of the Ithaka off the other base. Also the mouthpiece so all you have is the ceramic housing with wick and coil basic feeding and the base. Screw your adjustable pin all the way up. Now back your ceramic housing out of the basic feeding a couple turns and screw the base onto the 510 base. If it doesn't thread all the way on back the ceramic housing off a bit more and try again. Once it will thread all the way on then tighten down your ceramic housing. (this doesn't have to be super tight once you start feeling resistance you should be ok.)
Honestly what I am guessing is when you took it appart to clean and installed the ceramic housing back into the base you over tightened which in turn made the center post stick out farther then it was. Ithaka's center post even when screwed in all the way doesn't go up very far into the 510 threading and on some mods with a higher then normal center post this can be a problem which will cause it not to thread on all the way.
Hope this helped a little.
So just to update on the latest Ithaka pre-orders. The sale goes till the 22nd of this month and then how long after that can we expect to start getting the parts? Just curious because I need a clear tank part. My Ody clear tank broke after I sold my extra one. I figured I didnt need 2 as I ordered 2 of the Ithaka ones.
I have one clear Ody extension piece but it can only be used with the stainless steel extension piece. I have 2 Odys set up with 2 different juices and really miss being able to see the juice levels.
I have one clear Ody extension piece but it can only be used with the stainless steel extension piece. I have 2 Odys set up with 2 different juices and really miss being able to see the juice levels.
I just changed mine to a provari and it sits normal. Is the pin inside the ceramic loose maybe?
Mal comune mezzo gaudio?
It does this on both my Provaris, standard and mini. My two Pennys still slide wonderfully into provari's 510 pin, so I suppose it's an issue with the adjustable pin, also considering it has become difficult to screw and unscrew.
I'm also having a problem with my provari- not the same problem though. Ithaka sits flush but after a day or so, I get an "OP" error on the provari - then I have to take apart Ithaka to remount it - this has happened a few times and I have not touched either Ithaka or the provari in the interim - any thoughts????
You don't have to take it all apart, just unscrew Ithaka from Provari and with a small screw driver adjust center pin until it extends out of the 510 base just a little.
no: il tuo è messo molto peggio!
Maybe you don't have the auto feeder screwed low enough. I never have this problem on my provari. Just my two cents.
I never had either...
Wow, I thank you deeply for the effort!
I'm starting to follow your troubleshooting procedure!
1. Ithaka's base screws easily flush on top of the provari. To speak the truth if there's something I do not doubt in my life, well, than that is Provari's bild quality - flawless as usual. Flush on both Provaris.
I tried first screwing the 510 base flush to the provari top and then mounting the rest, but the problem remains, it gets stuck at some point.
2. Screwing and unscrewing manually the adjustable brass pin onto the ss pin works, now I don't feel any resistance anymore. I'm also cleaning both; if there were some organic residues (from the juice maybe) now they are gone, I am cleaning everything with isopropanol first and then hexane - this should do.
3. Nice suggestion, I will try.
You know what?
It could be....and it makes sense... it didn't come to my mind.
After point 3 I'm trying this for sure.
No no, it helped a lot, and even if I don't solve the problem your exquisite help was much appreciated!
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