Libertine, Regardless of how you do the build, in order to not pour juice straight out of the air paths all four of the juice channels must be filled with cotton at one point or another. It's blocks the juice from just flowing back out. Don't cop out with a single coil, the aqua is dual coil native; that's rare.
Take advantage of it!
28 gauge, two drill bits, allen wrenches, nails, WHATEVER, wrap your coils 5-8 wraps each depending on size with LONG legs,
position the coil while leaving it on the wrap tool,
wrap your legs tight around the posts so they're all secure even before anything's tight,
tighten the knurl nuts, remove coil tool after making sure the whole of the coil clears the chimney when reassembled,
heat and pinch both coils ~3-5 times each,
rip a piece of cotton, roll it TIGHT, thread it through each, you want them snug,
position the cotton into each of the channels and take note of where it lies, then lift it back out of the channels and clip it right before it reaches the horizontal channel.
Poke em in there, juice it up and cap it off!
Let me know how the process goes
I'd recommend just using the top knurl nuts at the beginning btw, tighten down the bottom ones before you start!
hey guys just received an origen brass clone from fasty which seems pretty nice for the price. this is my first bottom button mech since getting rid of my vela last year. I sold the vela because from time to time I had forgotten to lock the switch before setting it down. this just ...... me off and I vowed to not own a bottom switch mod again. after selling the vela I purchased a roller and dingo and still have my omega along with a couple of vv mods and a dna-20. anyways I just wanted the origen clone so I could use it with my aqua in non- 510 connection mode(I cant remember that term) so im really liking this clone but once again, on my way home from work I forgot to lock the dam button. I would say it had fired for 5 min easy and when I realized it, I reached and grabbed it and burnt my freaking hand, I flung it and it broke my freaking window! I couldn't believe it, it must of hit the window in the perfect spot to do this. anyways I pulled over and grabbed a towel and pulled the battery out. the juice was leaking everywhere, all over all sides of the mod. I kept it in the towel till I got home which was about 15 min. went inside and still couldn't hold the mod, it was still that hot. anyways when I took the aqua apart the wick was still perfect, not burnt at all, it looked no different then if this had not happened at all. I was expecting to see all the innards like blackened, a burnt wick and like a melted insulator but non of that happened at all. then again today I did the same dam thing but caught it within 30 seconds, needless to say im not sure how long im going to use this mod because I just cant seem to lock the switch everytime.
so i got an origin mod clone from a friend for $15. couldnt turn it down. looks awesome with drippers and the BLiSS genny. BUT, i dont think im doing this mod/myself justice without having an aqua. i really dig my kayfun 3.1 clone so i think im really gonna like an aqua too. im planning on getting the $20 FT aqua and the PMMA tank as well. folks seem to be liking that version, yes? do i need to do any modifications to the FT aqua to get it running tip top?
and whats the deal with twisting...twisting the drip tip adjusts juice flow and twisting the tank adjusts air flow? how about the two different drip tips, are they functionally different or is it just aesthetics?
sorry for so many questions! im stoked to place this order
Oh boy Kemo, it's about time
The $20 FT is the one to get. It has the red o-rings. These are important as it stops the chimney (which is the juice control) from turning when screwing on the main tank piece. This is really useful when bottom filling. I love bottom filling as I never have to worry about leaking at all. This version also comes with the hybrid brass pin so you can use it with your origin. This is the correct version for you!
You shouldn't need any modifications to get it running at tip top shape.
The way this works is you loosen the main outer tank to uncover the airholes in the deck. When the main outer tank is tightened/screwed all the way down it covers the holes and stops all airflow. You then unscrew the main tank enough to uncover the holes either partially or fully depending on the airflow amount you want. Works great and is really intuitive.
The juice control is the chimney. Unlike the kayfun where you always tighten the chimney all the way against the deck with the aqua you can untwist it (unscrew it) more than a full turn to allow more juice to go under the chimney and wet your wicks. This means that you don't have to be as careful with your cotton density because you can always just unscrew the chimney some to allow more juice to be available to the wicks.
This works because the chimney goes all the way through the top cap. Your drip tip is connected directly to the chimney.
I have two aquas: the non $20 fasttech version and an ehpro. They came with very different drip tips. One is much airier than the other. Maybe yours comes with both types.
Hope this helps/.
Once you get it in your hands this will all make sense. Once you get it I will help you learn to bottom fill. Its easy to do and doesn't require that you remove the device from the mod.
Which of the two is the airy one?
Once you get it in your hands this will all make sense. Once you get it I will help you learn to bottom fill. Its easy to do and doesn't require that you remove the device from the mod.
deck still attached to mod
unscrew tank and chimney simultaneously upside down
fill between chimney and tank. don't fill above chimney line
screw onto deck upside down insuring that the chimney threads as well as tank
I tend to completely thread the chimney, then unscrew for specific juice ratio. I like my aqua full open at 30 watts. remember that when bottom filling, only thing saving you from a lap full of juice is one oring.
you'll make a few messes before you become a pro
I'd assume it's the extra space above the threads in the top cap. Pretty much just like where all the extra goes with a Kayfun. The difference in diameter of the chimney between the top and bottom means that each mm of height you can't fill because of orientation probably makes a 3x to 4x difference in volume.And I cant figure out why it holds almost 3ml bottom fill vs 1.5-2.0ml top fill..... where is that extra mil space???????????