I've lost my mojo...need help.

[HippyGirl]

Hello all...it has been a while since I've visited (lots of stuff going on), but I need your help.

You see, I seem to have lost my mod mojo...I've made many mods (nicosticks, "fog logs", FL mods, but it has been a few months since I've made one and I GUESS I've simply lost it.

This is a project box from RS (3x2x1).



I've already installed the switch and the atty connector. As you can see, I've glued a couple of pieces of filler between the ridges to provide a flat surface upon which to attach battery terminals. I intend to use two 3V Tenergy RCR123A batts. I do not intend to use a regulator (will be using HV attys) and, as it is a project box rather than a batt box, there is no on/off switch.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get this to work no matter WHAT I try...no current is making it to the atty. I initially had the terminals installed so that the batts sat opposite from one another (batt on left, + up...batt on right, + down). Didn't work no matter how I wired it up, so I removed everything but the switch and the atty connector so hopefully someone here can give me a bit of guidance.

I worked on this most of the afternoon and went back to it after supper...for the life of me, I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

Would someone be willing to help me with this?

Thanks,

HG

OH! Tomorrow (11/8/10) makes ONE YEAR since I've smoked a cigarette. YAY!

 

[stouchon]

Have you tested for continuity between all the joints? That and make sure your batteries are charged.

 

[Mentat Ix]

Make sure the switch is good, too.

 

[traderdan]

Hi the first thing I would do would be cheak atty for being good and cheak the atty conector to see if it had a short . do you have an elec. tester and know how to use it . Oh great I passed my one year in sept.this year was amazing to me also.
Dan

 

[HippyGirl]

I do have a multimeter (Sperry DM 350A), but I don't think I'm using it properly when checking for continuity (the "manual" that I downloaded leaves a lot to be desired). I plug the black wire into COM port and the red wire into the ohm port (immediately to the left of the COM port), turn the dial all the way to the right to the "->+" symbol, but the numbers are all over the place and never "settle" no matter what I test.

The atty connector (from Madvapes) has never been used and the switch is brand new.

I "think" the problem is how I had my batts installed. I've always saved my parts from batt boxes, so I used two terminals in my stash. Both are solid (meaning both the pos and neg sides comprise one terminal). I glued one across each of the filler pieces (thin pieces of wood) that I glued into the box. I then ran the red wire from the center of the atty to one side of the switch, the black wire from the outside of the atty connector to the neg end of one of the terminals, and then another wire from the pos end of one of the terminals to the other side of the switch...nothing. I then started moving the wires around at the terminals...nothing.

I'm stumped.

I'm missing something here...and I'm sure when it comes to light I'm gonna feel real silly. Yup.

 

[Java_Az]

I would look at the switch being bad , but since your volt meter is not acting right might be a bit tough to check it. You can try putting the meter one click over to the 200ohm setting. Hook your tester leads up to each output on the switch. Hit the button The meter should read zero or really close to it. But if it is jumping all around on the 200ohm setting too there might be something wrong with your meter. Your connector wires look like they are soldered on good with your circuit that pretty much leave the batteries and the switch , sounds like you have covered the batteries already. So my bet is on a faulty switch.

 

[stouchon]

The lowest ohm setting on your multi-meter should be continuity. You can touch your test leads together and your meter should make some noise. Touch leads to both sides of the switch and press button to see if it connects. If it does you should check resistance of the switch, move your meter position up one notch on the ohm side and it will tell you resistance up to 200 ohm I believe. When switches go bad on me, they either won't pass power or the resistance goes up so high that it won't power an atty.

... I am not looking at my meter and yours may be different from mine.

 

[lukemacneil]

I've seen similar weirdness when the rubber grommet inside the atty connector melts or is broken. It may look ok from the front and back, but the center (of the grommet) may still be busted. Maybe it melted while you were soldering? Will it fire if you touch the atty leads directly to the battery, bypassing the switch?

 

[opuscroakus]

Your problem is your terminals. Both sides cannot be solid if you are going to be running the batteries in a series configuration. You need to cut one of them in half, separate them so they don't touch and then solder one wire to each half.

I "think" the problem is how I had my batts installed. I've always saved my parts from batt boxes, so I used two terminals in my stash. Both are solid (meaning both the pos and neg sides comprise one terminal). I glued one across each of the filler pieces (thin pieces of wood) that I glued into the box. I then ran the red wire from the center of the atty to one side of the switch, the black wire from the outside of the atty connector to the neg end of one of the terminals, and then another wire from the pos end of one of the terminals to the other side of the switch...nothing. I then started moving the wires around at the terminals...nothing.

 

[WillyB]

I do have a multimeter (Sperry DM 350A), but I don't think I'm using it properly when checking for continuity (the "manual" that I downloaded leaves a lot to be desired). I plug the black wire into COM port and the red wire into the ohm port (immediately to the left of the COM port), turn the dial all the way to the right to the "->+" symbol, but the numbers are all over the place and never "settle" no matter what I test.

You need to set the ohms range to 200, seems you may be on the diode check.

When you touch the leads together it should be close to zero. Note the number (for subtracting if you want to do ohm's tests). Whenever you want continuity (contact between 2 points) the number should be about the same. An open connection will look pretty much like the meter does connected to nothing.

A decent meter with 'audible beep' for continuity makes life easier.

 

[grantemsley]

For using the multimeter, I rarely use the continuity setting.

What I do is measure ohms on the lowest setting. If you touch the two leads together it should read 0 or very close to it (mine reads 0.4ohms, for the resistance of the wires and any miscalibration). When testing something, put the leads on either side of the part you are testing and it should go down to 0 (or near 0).

The reason I do this is because sometimes I end up with bad connections or a bad switch which is making a connection, but a very poor one.