JAC Vapour Series-B DNA 75w

[Baditude]

I didn't know about Panasonic/Sanyo. I believe Panasonic supplied AW at least for a time.

Andrew Wan of AW was a former executive of Panasonic (Japan) and went on to form AW brand batteries in China. He maintained a good relationship with Panasonic and allegedly used Panasonic cells for his black-wrapped protected NCR batteries. These batteries said, "cell and IC made in Japan, assembled in China".

AW was the first brand to offer unprotected IMR batteries (red wraps) on the open battery market, way before Lg, Samsung, and Sony did. I am of the belief that AW actually manufactured these IMR batteries in China (not rewraps). These batteries simply said, "Made in China."

The lone exception is AW's top 18650 IMR battery, which says, "Made in Korea"; Mooch has said this battery is likely a rewrapped LG HG2:

• AW 20A 3000mAh Flat-Top 18650 Bench Test Results...a good high-capacity 20A battery, could be an HG2

.

The fact that all AW batteries are not currently available because of a factory issue (flood) would appear to confirm my belief that they are made in their own plant in China.

 

[oplholik]

Thank you Bad for the info. Some of it I knew, some of it I didn't.

 

[Bronze]

The fact that all AW batteries are not currently available because of a factory issue (flood) would appear to confirm my belief that they are made in their own plant in China.

This is what made me think any rewraps they did is not happening anymore. In the past it was mentioned many times that AW was a purchased battery and Panasonic was mentioned frequently. One wonders about quality issues. And the fact that they have historically been a highly recommended battery also suggests they wrote their own specs. I often wondered why ProVape wrote in the Samsung spec for their Radius after many years of recommending AW. We all know how tight ProVape was with their specs.

 

[Baditude]

I often wondered why ProVape wrote in the Samsung spec for their Radius after many years of recommending AW. We all know how tight ProVape was with their specs.

At the time the Radius was introduced, AW didn't offer a battery with enough amps to power the Radius' higher wattage output. The Samsung 25R had a 20 amp CDR. There were other good 20 amp batteries available by Lg and Sony at the time, but Provape chose Samsung possibly to avoid confusion to consumers by suggesting a single brand/model. Despite their reputation as one of the best batteries available at one time, AW had fallen behind the competition spec wise. Later, AW eventually did offer the AW 3000mah 20A battery, but as Mooch has suggested it probably is a rewrapped LG HG2 in red AW clothing.

Provape also removed the button top requirement as they added reverse battery protection to their newer boards.

 

[Bronze]

At the time the Radius was introduced, AW didn't offer a battery with enough amps to power the Radius' higher wattage output. The Samsung 25R had a 20 amp CDR. There were other good 20 amp batteries available by Lg and Sony at the time, but Provape chose Samsung possibly to avoid confusion to consumers by suggesting a single brand/model. Despite their reputation as one of the best batteries available at one time, AW had fallen behind the competition spec wise. Later, AW eventually did offer the AW 3000mah 20A battery, but as Mooch has suggested it probably is a rewrapped LG HG2 in red AW clothing.

Provape also removed the button top requirement as they added reverse battery protection to their newer boards.

I have the 60W Radius but if I remember correctly their initial offering was 20W. I would think the AW spec would be more than adequate (unless they didn't have the flat tops then).

 

[Nailz]

I have the 60W Radius but if I remember correctly their initial offering was 20W. I would think the AW spec would be more than adequate (unless they didn't have the flat tops then).

Radius was released with 40 watt chip, hence the Samsung battery.

 

[DPLongo22]

16340 batteries are between 34 and 35mm long. Huge batches that measure 35.69mm should be labeled and sold as 16350.

I think even Mooch would agree with that statement. Why Mr. Wan does not is anyone's guess.

AW? Only if we're talking about root beer, thank you very much.

 

[englishmick]

Got my Jac all stripped and polished.

It looks pretty cool. It might not stay that way for long though. Just a few days careful use around the house and it has tiny but visible scratches all over the sides. I’ll probably keep it like this for a while then try the red wrap on it. I might leave the wrap off the battery door. The dark chrome should look good with the red body. And I can always go back to bare metal now it’s polished up.

I left the paint on at the top and bottom of the screen inset because I didn't think I would be able to get it off without scratching the plastic.

Don’t know what the story is with the paint. On the sides I picked it off with a fingernail. On the top and bottom the paint was rock hard and thick and really well stuck on. Couldn’t even shift it with a razor knife. I had to take most of it off with a small file and finish with sandpaper.

I'm not usually fussy about mods. Mine all have worn paint and scratches and dings, apart from silver Provaris which are indestructible. But the Jac looked like crap with the paint peeling off and it seemed worth the effort.

Note to Jac owners. I was having trouble getting stubborn paint out of the join between the top piece and the body. Decided to remove the top to do that and regretted it. The top is held on by two screws. They are surprisingly long screws, like 3/4", and really thin with super fine threading. They were also very tight. Guessing they used thread lock. I got them out without too much trouble, but putting them back in was hard and scary. when they first went in it took enough force to get them engaged that I was worried I might be cross threading. It took more force as they went in further. The last quarter turn was extremely tight. If the screwdriver slipped I could have stripped the tiny Philips heads. I was also worried about snapping a screw with them being so skinny. Took my time nibbling them in a fraction of a turn at a time. If it had gone wrong I would have had an expensive paperweight.

So my advice is don’t take the top or bottom off unless you have a really good reason.

Don't hands look weird in close up pics. Especially if they are old and wrinkly.

 

[englishmick]

Well, my shiny metal Jac didn't stay too shiny. Even with a bit of wax on it the zinc eventually turned dull and grey. slight abrasions like from rubbing against another mod left bright shiny marks. The only part that stayed shiny was the sloping area at the top because I rubbed it with my thumb whenever I was holding it. So I went ahead and put on the wrap.

It's actually a matt finish fire engine red, for some reason it came out pinkish in the pictures. So far I haven't covered the battery door. I like it the way it is now. I guess there's no way of avoiding the gaps between pieces of the wrap and on the front because the edges are rounded. The shiny metal lines actually look pretty cool in the flesh.

 

[Katdarling]

Mick, I like it!!!!!! I think that looks great. You've sure gone thru a lot of paces with the finish and look of your Jac, and I really like the end result with the wrap.

 

[Kickingthesticks]

What a pretty pink hehe

 

[englishmick]

I have some kind of problem with my Jac. I've been using SS coils that come in at a resistance of around 0.9. A while ago I noticed the Jac was showing 1.15 ohms. I figured I had a bad connection on the coil or something but it was vaping fine so I didn't worry. The other day I put a new coil in the tank and it still said 1.15. I tried the tank on another mod and it showed 0.9. I tried several different tanks on the Jac, SS and Kanthal coils, and they all showed higher resistance than they do on my other mods. Even a stock 1.8 coil in a Nautilus showed as 2.04. So I'm sure it's the Jac.

Not sure what to do. It still seems to provide the same vape as it always did.

When I was stripping the paint I took the top off the mod so I might have messed up one of the wire connections on the 510. Maybe juice got down onto the board. And I've dropped it a couple of times.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

 

[DPLongo22]

I have some kind of problem with my Jac. I've been using SS coils that come in at a resistance of around 0.9. A while ago I noticed the Jac was showing 1.15 ohms. I figured I had a bad connection on the coil or something but it was vaping fine so I didn't worry. The other day I put a new coil in the tank and it still said 1.15. I tried the tank on another mod and it showed 0.9. I tried several different tanks on the Jac, SS and Kanthal coils, and they all showed higher resistance than they do on my other mods. Even a stock 1.8 coil in a Nautilus showed as 2.04. So I'm sure it's the Jac.

Not sure what to do. It still seems to provide the same vape as it always did.

When I was stripping the paint I took the top off the mod so I might have messed up one of the wire connections on the 510. Maybe juice got down onto the board. And I've dropped it a couple of times.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

I've had it on other DNA75s but not the JAC, or at least not that I've noticed so far. I don't really look at the numbers though, so it's possible (I'm a vape-to-taste vaper). I'd not have noticed the other DNA75s if Kat hadn't pointed it out to me (her's were doing the same).

I'd think that the drops might possibly have done something, but if it's vaping fine...

 

[englishmick]

I've had it on other DNA75s but not the JAC, or at least not that I've noticed so far. I don't really look at the numbers though, so it's possible (I'm a vape-to-taste vaper). I'd not have noticed the other DNA75s if Kat hadn't pointed it out to me (her's were doing the same).

I'd think that the drops might possibly have done something, but if it's vaping fine...

That all makes sense. I'm sure I would notice if it was vaping hotter. I did turn the watts down a little. I never even hit the temp limit anyway with it set to 400. It might be a problem if I was pushing the limits and using higher power. Unless it gets worse the mod is fine to use.

 

[matcas]

That all makes sense. I'm sure I would notice if it was vaping hotter. I did turn the watts down a little. I never even hit the temp limit anyway with it set to 400. It might be a problem if I was pushing the limits and using higher power. Unless it gets worse the mod is fine to use.

I’m having the same problem with mine it is showing 1full ohm higher on my Jac when I put it on any other mod it reads what it should be 1 ohm lower. Vapes fine but seems weird.

 

[Bronze]

No issues here. I think any time you pop the top you're open to crazy stuff happening.

 

[Dubminer]

I have some kind of problem with my Jac. I've been using SS coils that come in at a resistance of around 0.9. A while ago I noticed the Jac was showing 1.15 ohms. I figured I had a bad connection on the coil or something but it was vaping fine so I didn't worry. The other day I put a new coil in the tank and it still said 1.15. I tried the tank on another mod and it showed 0.9. I tried several different tanks on the Jac, SS and Kanthal coils, and they all showed higher resistance than they do on my other mods. Even a stock 1.8 coil in a Nautilus showed as 2.04. So I'm sure it's the Jac.

Not sure what to do. It still seems to provide the same vape as it always did.

When I was stripping the paint I took the top off the mod so I might have messed up one of the wire connections on the 510. Maybe juice got down onto the board. And I've dropped it a couple of times.

Has anyone else seen this happen?

Try giving the 510 connection a good clean out. I use an earbud with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol.Turn the mod upside down a good clean then dry with other end of earbud. This has cured any wrong ohm readings on a few of my DNA devices.

 

[englishmick]

I’m having the same problem with mine it is showing 1full ohm higher on my Jac when I put it on any other mod it reads what it should be 1 ohm lower. Vapes fine but seems weird.

Mine seems to add around 0.2 ohm to the actual resistance of whatever coil I put on it. Hard to tell what's going on. It's possible the chip knows the actual resistance of the coil and runs the TC accordingly but just displays the wrong value.

 

[englishmick]

Try giving the 510 connection a good clean out. I use an earbud with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol.Turn the mod upside down a good clean then dry with other end of earbud. This has cured any wrong ohm readings on a few of my DNA devices.

I tried that. The spring loaded pin moves fine as well. The only problem I could see was the positive battery connection inside the mod is dented, but I don't know how that would mess up the resistance function.

I've had some leaks. A couple of times I took it outside in the heat and juice flooded all over the mod. Some juice could have got down past the positive 510 pin, but all you can clean without tearing it down is the outer part of the 510. I don't want to start dismantling it. It works now and if I take it apart it might end up not working at all.

 

[dwcraig1]

This I copied and pasted from a board support web site"
"Thought of soldering a small piece of wire securing the negative connection between the outer barrel of the 510 to the plate itself (under the plate), but realised the DESIGN FLAW.... the 510 is press fitted onto the plate which was not giving a secure negative connection. Noticed, that the 510 was protruding half a mm above the plate. All I did was put all the screws back in place, put the mod on the floor , and with a small flat hammer gave the 510, 2-3 shots. All this did was, make the connection between the 510 and the plate solid. The protusion of half a mm also became negligible and the resistance on my JAC is back to perfect"