FT polished ray body seams fit near perfect. Almost need a loop to see any rounding.
JD Mods Stingray- CLONE
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Well, boy howdy.
I was gonna pass on that, but now.....
Is everything else kosher with the FT polished brass 'ray?
I haven't been keeping up.....in-and-out of the hospital, now I've got a sinus infection.
Same ol' same ol' from me....whine....whine....whine....
I was gonna pass on that, but now.....
Is everything else kosher with the FT polished brass 'ray?
I haven't been keeping up.....in-and-out of the hospital, now I've got a sinus infection.
Same ol' same ol' from me....whine....whine....whine....
Well, boy howdy.
I was gonna pass on that, but now.....
Is everything else kosher with the FT polished brass 'ray?
I haven't been keeping up.....in-and-out of the hospital, now I've got a sinus infection.
Same ol' same ol' from me....whine....whine....whine....
FT polished ray is a keeper.
Has the usual scratchy switch but switch tolerance is pretty tight; minimal switch wobble.
I 800 grit polished switch post, deburred, anti-spin pin delete, shimmed switch pin; switch is pretty good now.
I expect switch will break in near perfect.
Finish not quite mirror flat. If logo was deep I would 1600 grit sand and buff. Looks mirror as is unless look very close. Other words it is close enough to mirror to satisfy most peeps.
Bottom logo washed out light grey and uneven color; I will hit it w/ a sharpie. Side logo looks dark grey, almost looks black. Very edge of ray wing is washed out, about 0.5 mm x 2 mm.
I'm not sold on the floating pin. Right now I prefer nemie M5 pin.
Vapes good and is quite attractive.
I've never taken a sharpie to any of my mods. Anything in particular you recommend I be careful about? I'm hoping that if I "color outside the lines" the black ink will just wipe clean off the brass?
And also, I'm sure you woulda mentioned it if this was an issue, but these tubes are indeed brass, right? And not just brass-plated? I only ask because I've polished brass plating clean off several mods without even realizing it. The center, telescoping tube for my cheap-o Maraxus clone, fer instance.
:::grumble::grumble::grumble:::
And also, I'm sure you woulda mentioned it if this was an issue, but these tubes are indeed brass, right? And not just brass-plated? I only ask because I've polished brass plating clean off several mods without even realizing it. The center, telescoping tube for my cheap-o Maraxus clone, fer instance.
:::grumble::grumble::grumble:::
Received my Tobeco clone from White Stag Vapor today. Really impressive mod!
Finishing is great. The seam between tubes is more than acceptable but still noticeable. My switch isn't crunchy at all which I am surprised to find. It even came clean.
All I did was break it down, wash it up with some water and dawn, polish it and add some no ox id to the threads and contacts. Works like a dream.
Tomorrow or Friday I'll break it down again and take pics of the internals so we can compare the various clone versions.
I'm really happy with it but it wasn't worth a month and a half wait.
Finishing is great. The seam between tubes is more than acceptable but still noticeable. My switch isn't crunchy at all which I am surprised to find. It even came clean.
All I did was break it down, wash it up with some water and dawn, polish it and add some no ox id to the threads and contacts. Works like a dream.
Tomorrow or Friday I'll break it down again and take pics of the internals so we can compare the various clone versions.
I'm really happy with it but it wasn't worth a month and a half wait.
The ink will wipe right off for sure!
I know what you mean about polishing the gold/brass plating right off a mod. How long did that plating last on our copper Velas? A week?
And on a side note, did that little package come in today or is it coming in tomorrow?
Your copper velas were only plated copper? What a scam. There are solid copper ones for sale as well.
No no no, the accents were plated brass/gold on SS. The top cap and switch to be more precise. The tube is copper. It is a single 18650 tube.
Wouldn't a regular Sharpie wipe right off? Possibly the industrial version that can be used under water or on oily surfaces would stay on. I use them in my hobby.
http://www.staples.com/Sharpie-Indu...Marker-Black-Each/product_623272#desc_content
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http://www.staples.com/Sharpie-Indu...Marker-Black-Each/product_623272#desc_content
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
The sharpie wiped off the polished surface right away but it stuck on the rough etched logo for nows. Don't know for hows longs. Anyways it looks better today after sharpie. I don't pay much mind to button logo anyhows.
Tracking sez it'll be here tomorrow! I have yet to put together the stuff I intend to donate to your cause though. It's....been a rough couple weeks. 
Does anyone on here have or have seen the Hcigar version of the brass stingray? Mine is sposed to be here today and I was just wondering if its any good. On a side note im not sure if anyone has seen it or not but I saw on VapeRev's instagram page that JD Tech is putting out a special copper stingray limited edition. They only showed the botton button and im not sure if this was already covered in here or not so if it was I apologize for repeating it.
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I've seen people ordering the Hcigar version - but I haven't seen anyone post pics or info on it.
If you get yours please post pics and info here. Thanks.
The Tobeco version's I got a hold of are subpar.
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Can you provide more information as mine seems to be pretty great. I'd like to know what I may be missing out on.
I might just have to do this, I cleaned my Stingray with 91% isopropyl alcohol and its logo has become way too dull now.
Will do, I get off in a couple more hours and it should be there when I get home. So once I have it cleaned and everything I will report back with everything.
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What's wrong with the Tobeco version? Aside from the fact that Tobeco is taking over a month to manufacture and deliver them here.
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