Just as a back up plan I email vaporbeast whom I bought it from in hopes maybe just maybe the can get me a better one. Thanks to everyone who has talked much about this problem as it has helped me tremendously to understand what is exactly going on.
Joyetech eGrip - I am loving this thing!
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That's not what causes the leaking. I never ever cover all 4 holes. Never ever have a leak. Not a drop. Check all of the seals.
Could one of you possibly show a picture of the seals. I really one see one and that's the one on the top of the rba base.
I don't see another seal.
Yeah that one looks good too. For now I'm just gonna let it sit over night and see if I got any leakage going on. I just got done ordering the 510 adapter from gotvapes. So that should be all I need for the mean time. Again I appreciate everyone's hep and for being patient with me. I'll eventually learn.
Mine will dump practically the whole tank if I don't put enough wick in - but I vape high PG. I can't cover all 4 holes, but I do have to have enough wick in there to keep it from leaking.
That's all I've really done so far was put a longer wick in. The pre installed wick was super short. Since then it hasn't leaked yet.
The only other thing ide like to mention is just about after a second of firing the coil I always get one loud pop then it just sizzles. I don't feel liquid hitting me when it pops but I can feel the pressure from mouth piece and air hole on the base.
As noted in previous posts, probably bad coil symmetry or under wicked. If you don't have the 510 adaptor get one. You need to fire the unwicked coil on a mod/battery to make sure it's firing correctly and resistance value is correct.
I just ordered one last night.
I also have a MVP 20w on the way to be able to check the ohms with the 510 adapter.
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I just actually woke up but I checked my egrip after letting it sit all night and it didn't leak a drop. Next step I guess will be learning to test and setup these coils once I get the adapter.
Hey great news R, glad it's behaving now. The mvp 20w has a 1 ohm minimum res capability. Even though the egrip coils are SUPPOSED to read 1.3-1.5 ohms they may not until fired. They could initially read much lower because of shorted together turns in the coil. If enough turns are shorted together it may read much less than 1 ohm and won't fire on your mvp. No problem though, you can heat the coil a couple of times with a bic lighter or small torch lighter so the res will come up high enough for your mvp to read and fire the coil.
From what I read the included wire that came with rba is 28 guage, and to use a 1/16th drill bit or maybe even the blue screwdriver and wrap 9 coils for 1.2 ohms. I've been trying to watch videos and read on building coils. Just can't experiment yet. So just getting the coil red hot makes it high res while on the rba base or just holding the coil with tweezers or something?
Ok trying to keep it simple: the bare wire of a new contact coil (turns touching each other) can have short circuits from one turn to the next and can read lower than normal res because the battery current can take shortcuts across the turns of the coil instead of travelling all the way around the full length of wire. Heating the coil to red hot a few times will allow alumina to develope on the surface of the wire and that will electrically isolate each turn from one another. Once the turns are isolated from each other the current has to travel the full length of the wire resulting in a full res reading.
The alumina will develope whether you heat the coil to red hot on or off the atty but it is preferred to heat it on the atty so that the alumina is undisturbed after its formation. This is why most peeps use a mech mod or subohm capable box mod to pulse their coils to life, that is, fire the coils repeatedly until they glow red from the center outward with no signs of dead zones.
Just slapping in a prewicked coil into the egrip is like rolling the dice. It may work or it may not depending on how many shorts it has between the turns on first fire.
Sorry guys, I don't know how to describe this process without using SOME techy terms. Please forgive.
Cig
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I understand and that makes sense. But like you said with my MVP 20w it may or may not fire the coil and then would have to use a torch or lighter to do this process.
If it hasn't been said already.
Solution to gurgling = don't fill using side. Open the flap and put tape on it. Fill eliquid from the bottom.
Yes it's a little annoying and takes a sec or two longer, but the gurggling stops. Also avoids getting eliquid in the mouth
No problem filling it near max capacity either
Solution to gurgling = don't fill using side. Open the flap and put tape on it. Fill eliquid from the bottom.
Yes it's a little annoying and takes a sec or two longer, but the gurggling stops. Also avoids getting eliquid in the mouth
No problem filling it near max capacity either
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Hm. With due respect to it being a workaround for some, I'm not sure this is a "be all, end all" solution. There are the other variables involved with the RBA - PG/VG percentage, wicking, the juice inlet hole alignment, and indeed, how hard folks are drawing on the device.
Overall, if one can put aside the pejorative sense of the phrase "trial and error", the variables mentioned are all part and parcel of getting the RBA to work for an individual. I certainly had to do trial and error on my end, which I tried to document in this thread so other noobs might benefit.
Granted, the fill hatch / flap could have been thought out better - especially in the regard of making the fill port big enough to let folks use a more common drip bottle, instead of a needle tip. Perhaps Joyetech had some "fill rate / speed" idea behind the smaller hole to prevent overfilling / spillage? At least they had the foresight to include the smaller vent port.
Something else I noticed on the topic of the fill hatch / flap: in some review videos on Youtube when unboxing, some eGrip kits come with a couple of spares for the rectangular fill hatch / flap seals. Mine didn't. Not that these would seemingly wear out quickly or anything, but interesting in how JT provides spare base seals in the RBA kit, but doesn't list them in the contents / configuration for the RBA kit on their site, and doesn't list any seals (e.g., the top of the RBA cap) being available separately at all. Also: what are these seals comprised of? Silicone?
Good to hear you got a grip on yer Grip, rowsley! You might be in the same boat I am, not quite ready to wind yer own coils and just use the factory wound replacements. Cigatron's suggestion of firing the factory replacement coils before use makes total sense, especially in light of all the spitting problems folks were reporting, which would have come from hot spots in the coil - a direct result of the shorts in the coil cigatron was describing, causing the low resistance readings and the eGrip to not fire at all (it's designed to not fire below 1 ohm, figure in some tolerance there as I dunno how close you have to get to 1 before it decides it won't fire).
I had no problem firing new factory coils with the 510 adapter on my eGo Twist, described back on page 35 here. Note the difference between the shiny new coil before firing, and the dull finish from the alumina formed after firing. As cigatron stated, you could do this with a torch or flame, but 1) you risk overheating the coil and deforming it, and 2) the alumina could be disturbed when installing the coil on the RBA deck.
To close out - I should mention that I find the DIY vertical coil build in the APV eGrip thread very intriguing. I am definitely past the "plug n play" hump now, and wanting to experiment
Also, eGrip #1 with the new RBA base that I cherry-picked for juice inlet hole alignment is kickin azz. I literally cannot tell the flavor / production difference between #1 and #2 now. Once you get it right for your variables, the RBA really does blow the stock CS coils out of the water.
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