Just a warning.. Genesis.

[t2ak]

Tried searching with Google for this topic but I found nothing.

I just rebuilt a dual wick setup on a aga-td

I had it short out while taking a draw.. While I'm still intact. It is an amazingly unpleasant and quite scary event.

I setup a 1.2 ohm dual wick using as rope and mesh. I fail to oxidize my mesh enough.. I had worked out all the hot spots and got my coils glowing evenly. I filled and was enjoying a few vapes.

Then POP!!!! I got a nice hot burst of tasty chemical gas forced into my lungs. I popped the cap off and sure enough there was a shorted coil.

This is completely my fault. I was being lazy and could have completely avoided this.

I just wanted to let people new to this style of vaping that you need to be careful and thorough with your equipment. I feel like it could have been alot worse and I was lucky. Throat is a little sore though.

Not trying to shy anyone away from anything. I've reset up and have had zero issues like the few coils built before. Again this was pure laziness on my part.

Carry on

Mods, tapatalk is not letting me post in the new members section. I this post would probably be better in there or in the rebuildables section. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..

 

[D. Waterhouse]

If you have over 75 posts you can't start a new thread in the New Members subforum.

 

[Vaslovik]

Your wick probably shorted out on the metal bottom of the AGA's tank. You need to watch that, and make sure your wick doesn't touch it.

 

[t2ak]

If you have over 75 posts you can't start a new thread in the New Members subforum.

Ah didn't know about that. Thanks for the heads up.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..

 

[t2ak]

Your wick probably shorted out on the metal bottom of the AGA's tank. You need to watch that, and make sure your wick doesn't touch it.

It wasn't touching. That was the first thing I looked for before pulling the cap off.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..

 

[Nikkita6]

Its good that you shared this story, and did so while taking full responsibility for why it happened. I am glad that it was not worse, and that you lived to tell it about it. When it comes to using SS mesh period, there is no room for half stepping.

 

[t2ak]

Its good that you shared this story, and did so while taking full responsibility for why it happened. I am glad that it was not worse, and that you lived to tell it about it. When it comes to using SS mesh period, there is no room for half stepping.

My thought exactly. The Genny has been working like a champ all day. It was just me.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..

 

[Thrasher]

sometimes a hot coil can burn through the oxidation or melt a layer of mesh and then short out.

the wick shorting on the tank is a myth if the wick is properly setup. many of us dont even oxidize anymore.

dont let it scare ya shorts and hot spots can randomly occur without warning and sometimes it just happens. could be something as simple as a loose fiber on the side of the wick or the coil tension changing from thermal expansion

this is why we stress so much that newer people understand what they are doing what can happen and how important it is to know when something isnt right so you stop using it and fix the problem.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Geneis style mesh wick..you MUST pre-condition burn the snot out of it

I hold mine in the flame on my stove till it all glows evenly, let cool, then repeat 3x times until the entire wick is jet black (this way the oxidation layer to prevent shorts goes all the way thru the entire wick, not just on the surface), otherwise it gets the archy sparky shorts...ask me how I know

Glad you weren't injured nothing bad happened and you learned your lesson...those genesis atty's do have a bit of a learning curve, but once it all clicks...MAN what a vape...and the FLAVOR!!!

 

[skakid812]

sometimes a hot coil can burn through the oxidation or melt a layer of mesh and then short out.

the wick shorting on the tank is a myth if the wick is properly setup. many of us dont even oxidize anymore.

dont let it scare ya shorts and hot spots can randomly occur without warning and sometimes it just happens. could be something as simple as a loose fiber on the side of the wick or the coil tension changing from thermal expansion

this is why we stress so much that newer people understand what they are doing what can happen and how important it is to know when something isnt right so you stop using it and fix the problem.

Can you elaborate on the "hot coil can burn through the oxidization"? I am about to build my first RSST and am still confused on oxidization, hot spots, and how a short can occur. By the way, I'm from mad beach area, right on.

 

[ConradM]

Why not use micro coils? Seems like to me it's pretty hard to get a hot spot that way.

 

[Ryedan]

I just rebuilt a dual wick setup on a aga-td

I had it short out while taking a draw.. While I'm still intact. It is an amazingly unpleasant and quite scary event.

I setup a 1.2 ohm dual wick using as rope and mesh. I fail to oxidize my mesh enough.. I had worked out all the hot spots and got my coils glowing evenly. I filled and was enjoying a few vapes.

Then POP!!!! I got a nice hot burst of tasty chemical gas forced into my lungs. I popped the cap off and sure enough there was a shorted coil.

This is completely my fault. I was being lazy and could have completely avoided this.

I just wanted to let people new to this style of vaping that you need to be careful and thorough with your equipment. I feel like it could have been alot worse and I was lucky. Throat is a little sore though.

Not trying to shy anyone away from anything. I've reset up and have had zero issues like the few coils built before. Again this was pure laziness on my part.

Carry on

Mods, tapatalk is not letting me post in the new members section. I this post would probably be better in there or in the rebuildables section. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Sent using these stoopid hooves..

I used an AGA-T2 as my main vape device for about 5 months and got to know it quite well. I consider myself proficient in it, but I'm sure there is more I can learn about it. I am though quite comfortable using it as my main vape machine.

IMO you did nothing wrong t2ak. It's impossible to totally eliminate shorts with this device when using SS mesh though it doesn't happen often to me anymore. The occasional short with the resulting burnt hit doesn't bother me, nasty as it is. I notice it quickly and fix it. This is also not the only device that gives burnt hits once in a while.

IMO if you want to avoid this happening don't use SS mesh. The issue with SS mesh is the wire shorting through the mesh and the top deck or the bottom of the tank if the mesh touches that (easy to avoid), to ground. They can be setup using silica or cotton though I've never tried it. There is also the RSST which has a insulated wick hole and a plastic tank to help eliminate shorts, though I have not tried these either.

As for setting them up using SS, eHuman has a tutorial with some great advice on it here.

Hope you have better luck with it future

 

[Thrasher]

im sorry but
you do not need to oxidize a wick at all

the coil can and will oxidize the area that matters all by itself,
when the genesis style first appeared the over oxidized rusty nail looking thing is how it worked and we didnt know better, the modder Petar K showed everyone early last year none of this preparation is even needed and the raw wick will work just fine, this method improves wicking and flavor and getting rid of any break in period.

the wick not touching the bottom is to help juice flow not for shorting.

Can you elaborate on the "hot coil can burn through the oxidization"? I am about to build my first RSST and am still confused on oxidization, hot spots, and how a short can occur

sometimes a hotspot(when a single coil glows hotter then the rest) can burn through the thin layer of oxidation and expose a raw spot of metal which will then cause a short. when you pull the wick out you can tell this happened because you can see small pinholes burned in the wick. when it is still in the atty it will look like a spark sitting on the coil.

here is the pulse method, how you set up the coil and roll the wick is whatever you decide, the method for pulsing is all that matters, i have even pulled this off on a provari (pain in the a** but i proved it can be done)

 

[Thrasher]

heres another quick example.


now problems with hotspots can and will always come and go but there is a real difference between a hot spotting coil from improper coil spacing or a dry wick and a short.
it is time all this over preperation and burning the wick into charcoal becomes forgotten and regarded as the old school way of doing things.

it does not ever work as good as pulsing becuase by burning and quenching and juice burns and all this junk you actually cause the mesh surface to become rough and this actually increases the chance to short out on a loose fiber. ( under magnification the mesh will actually look fuzzy)

 

[Ryedan]

im sorry but
you do not need to oxidize a wick at all

the coil can and will oxidize the area that matters all by itself,
when the genesis style first appeared the over oxidized rusty nail looking thing is how it worked and we didnt know better, the modder Petar K showed everyone early last year none of this preparation is even needed and the raw wick will work just fine, this method improves wicking and flavor and getting rid of any break in period.

the wick not touching the bottom is to help juice flow not for shorting.


View attachment 289294




sometimes a hotspot(when a single coil glows hotter then the rest) can burn through the thin layer of oxidation and expose a raw spot of metal which will then cause a short. when you pull the wick out you can tell this happened because you can see small pinholes burned in the wick. when it is still in the atty it will look like a spark sitting on the coil.

here is the pulse method, how you set up the coil and roll the wick is whatever you decide, the method for pulsing is all that matters, i have even pulled this off on a provari (pain in the a** but i proved it can be done)

I agree Thrasher. I also use the Petar K method and oxidize only by pulsing. I found this to work much better than trying to oxidize the coil with flame.

I do believe though that how you roll your mesh makes a difference and how tight you have the coil on it also matters. But the Pertar K method pretty much takes care of that.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Well learn somethin' new everday! Cool..gonna be trying this for sure...

I know I didn't have any problems using the oldschool carcoal method...but if it helps make the vape that much better...I'm willing to try it out

 

[Ryedan]

Excellent video on pulsing out shorts!

 

[Thrasher]

I do believe though that how you roll your mesh makes a difference and how tight you have the coil on it also matters. But the Pertar K method pretty much takes care of that.

the whole petar k or drill bit method was introduced first as it was believed the wick and coil etc need to be perfectly matched for the unoxidized method to even work, not too long after that the pulse method came out as i guess someone said the whole drill bit trick isnt even required.

i on several atty's i do use the drill bit trick then pulse it out, 5 minutes maybe and wham vaping away. it still must be noted if the wick runs dry or the tank is empty etc your still going to get a hot spot but thats any wick you let dry out so..

 

[Ryedan]

the whole petar k or drill bit method was introduced first as it was believed the wick and coil etc need to be perfectly matched for the unoxidized method to even work, not too long after that the pulse method came out as i guess someone said the whole drill bit trick isnt even required.

i on several atty's i do use the drill bit trick then pulse it out, 5 minutes maybe and wham vaping away. it still must be noted if the wick runs dry or the tank is empty etc your still going to get a hot spot but thats any wick you let dry out so..

I hear ya Thrasher. I like the Petar K with drill bit method because it makes it easy for me to end up with a wick and coil that fit very well together and the wick is easily removable without damaging the shape of the coil. Anytime I want to I pull out the wick, dry burn the coil, wash the wick, re-roll it and put it back. Eventually that end of the wick becomes a bit messed up and then I use it with the other end up.

Works for me

 

[Nikkita6]

Thanks for all of the contributions to this thread, which I will be in for the next few hours watching, and then re watching the two videos that were posted ... To oxidize, or not to oxidize that is the question, and a highly debated one too. There are those who belong to the tribal mind set of " burn it to hell and back ", which I have always found to be less credible because it seems to come from 2nd hand knowledge, as opposed to practical application and direct experience ... in other words, this advice is based purely on "what they have heard", and not what they know via trial and error.

I have done my fair share of research on this topic, as I do for everything else, and after watching upteen tutorials on the subject, and listening to contradicting opinions on "how to", I have always opted to stay away from SS mesh and just use cotton instead, because there is only one way to really know anything, and that is to directly experience it for myself ... but I wasn't sure that I really wanted to know, lol. I didn't want to be bothered with potential shorts, and constant fiddling with hot spots, and such ..

I do know that there are those who use an ekowool sleeve at the top of the wick where the coil is wrapped, supposedly to eliminate the need to oxidize, and to prevent shorts?? Can anyone answer to this?

On the strength of this thread, I am going to revisit the possibility of using SS mesh in my gennies, which I do have.