I just got a Zmax and have my kanger protank on top it. 2.2 ohm coil. I started out when I left the store on voltage, that I am familar with from my ego twist. I had it at 3.6 volts for the 2.2 ohm coil. I switched it over to power to play around, and I am not quite understanding exactly how variable power works. Right now I am at 7.5 watts, and the juice has a different taste, and the vapor is a little hotter than my 3.6 volts, but I don't get a burning taste. I started off with 4.0 volts and I got a burning taste so I turned it down. Can anyone help me understand VW? By the way, I do have the Zmax set on RMS and it is the Sigeli v2 version of the zmax.
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Just play around with the wattage setting until you find your particular sweet spot. In theory setting a device at, say, 7 watts means that regardless of the resistance of the coil in your tank/carto/clearo the device will adjust the voltage to deliver the same amount of heating power. When setting a device to a specific voltage it will deliver that voltage steadily regardless of the resistance of your coil and thus the heating power will be different with each type of coil. Of course theory and practice will differ as they always do but in general using watts instead of volts will tend to even out heating power delivery across a range of resistances meaning anything you stick onto your mod should produce similar results whereas using voltage will mean every different type of coil you put on will give different results.
It may sound like a distinction without a difference but it's really not and most folks end up gravitating towards using wattage to aid in that even power delivery. The theory tends to break down at the extremes, say 5 ohms or .5 ohms, because the electronics in many units cannot handle that wide a range of variability. It works pretty well though in the big middle where most commercial tanks/cartos dwell.
It may sound like a distinction without a difference but it's really not and most folks end up gravitating towards using wattage to aid in that even power delivery. The theory tends to break down at the extremes, say 5 ohms or .5 ohms, because the electronics in many units cannot handle that wide a range of variability. It works pretty well though in the big middle where most commercial tanks/cartos dwell.
There are tons of wattage calculators out there, but plugging the numbers in, you 2.2 ohm load at 3.6v is 5.89 watts, at 7.5 watts that's 4.06v, this is why it's tasting hotter.
Most people like an average of 8watts, but I'm learning the Protanks just won't do this, they want 6 watts, or less, or it tastes burnt.
Most people like an average of 8watts, but I'm learning the Protanks just won't do this, they want 6 watts, or less, or it tastes burnt.
Irrespective of what calculations suggest I should be able to use with 2.6Ω Protank heads, mine are not happy campers over 6w. (For reference, I use 70pg/30vg juice.)
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