I was eyeballin' one of those too Lynch...thinking, hmmm, what could I glue that to
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Here is one i will be trying out
1pc DC-DC power module + voltage meter 4.5-24V LM2596 -4 | eBay
1pc DC-DC power module + voltage meter 4.5-24V LM2596 -4 | eBay
Hi Tom will do when it arrives as i just bought it so it will be a while.
I had one from madvapes and took caerfully took the pins off then solder both wires direct.
Tested it with a battery and it worked, but decided i did not like one of the wires so i un - soldered the wire and soldered new one in but this time around the solder ran to the other wire as well.
When all said and done i tested it but it no linger worked as i imagine too much heat messed it up.
In short ordered a new one to finish the job.
Then looked around and saw the one in the link and figured why not try this as well.
Cant have too many right?. lol
I had one from madvapes and took caerfully took the pins off then solder both wires direct.
Tested it with a battery and it worked, but decided i did not like one of the wires so i un - soldered the wire and soldered new one in but this time around the solder ran to the other wire as well.
When all said and done i tested it but it no linger worked as i imagine too much heat messed it up.
In short ordered a new one to finish the job.
Then looked around and saw the one in the link and figured why not try this as well.
Cant have too many right?. lol
I also ordered one of these and it should work ok with two 14500 keeping in mind that you need 2.5 v more in than what you want out. So when your batteries get down to 7.4 your max out will be 4.9v.
Hi everyone.
I'm putting together a box mod using this wiring schematic for the green LM2596 Step Down Reg
It is going in a madvapes 4AA box with their MV.volt meter and their little atty fire button as well.
I can follow the wiring in that schematic but i cant figure out where to hook up this black wire from the madvapes on and off switch shown in this picture below as i do not see that in the wiring schematic.
Please tell me where that black wire goes .
Thanks
I'm putting together a box mod using this wiring schematic for the green LM2596 Step Down Reg
It is going in a madvapes 4AA box with their MV.volt meter and their little atty fire button as well.
I can follow the wiring in that schematic but i cant figure out where to hook up this black wire from the madvapes on and off switch shown in this picture below as i do not see that in the wiring schematic.
Please tell me where that black wire goes .
Thanks
It looks like that on/off switch is connected to the ground. So this is how you would wire it.
This is very good but you are not getting full use of the meter, you will only get reading on the volts out to the atty and no reading for your batteries.
If you install a on off on slide switch you can select your readings from batteries or to atty.
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Thanks so much for the time you folks have taken .
BJ hmm ok well if would would not mind helping out once again and tell me how to get the meter to read the batteries also that would be great if it is just adding 2 more wires i would need to know where those would go.
I can solder well minus a few burnt fingers just not good with the electricity know how and its terms.
This is sure fun !
BJ hmm ok well if would would not mind helping out once again and tell me how to get the meter to read the batteries also that would be great if it is just adding 2 more wires i would need to know where those would go.
I can solder well minus a few burnt fingers just not good with the electricity know how and its terms.
This is sure fun !
I see i would have to buy another switch for that as mine just has off and on.
Mine from MV had 3 solder tabs on it one is soldered to the battery spring , one has a loose black wire , and one solder lug has nothing.
Back to square one and im now confused as this diagram shows 2 wires coming out of switch which is different from mine.
Mine from MV had 3 solder tabs on it one is soldered to the battery spring , one has a loose black wire , and one solder lug has nothing.
Back to square one and im now confused as this diagram shows 2 wires coming out of switch which is different from mine.
Just remove the pos wire from your meter and take it to an outside post of a on off on slide switch and another from the pos batt to the other outside post of the switch. The center post of the swtch is then wired to the pos of the meter. To one side you read the batt voltage and to the other side of the switch you read the voltage to the atty. In the center position your meter is off, you will want to be able to turn the meter off, it is a pain flashing all the time.
The switch in your box is already connected to the negative of your battery. So the wire needs to go to the negative on the input side of the lm2595.
This is very good but you are not getting full use of the meter, you will only get reading on the volts out to the atty and no reading for your batteries.
If you install a on off on slide switch you can select your readings from batteries or to atty.
This is OK, but why not get Full use of the meter when checking your cells.
You just need one more wire from the cell pack and then it will show, No1, No2, and Total. And a little bit of switch gymnastics to finish the job.
Seems a waste to have a meter that can handle 6 cells only showing one reading.
Tried could never get it to work correctly, you have to separate independently the voltage before the regulator, in my case with 11.1 3cell and send it to pin 1,2,3, then a separate circuit for the atty voltage back to pin 1. If you put atty voltage to pin 4 you get weird readings and total. Since 99% of mine are PT and just use a single source I gave up on figuring out the wiring to test individual cells.
WillyB any help on how you would wire it would be great..
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Hi ,
I went to radio shack and bought the on/off/on switch.
Just to make sure do i use both switches on/off/on and the regular on/off switchas well and put everything together like this schematic.
Once again thanks for all of your patience.
I went to radio shack and bought the on/off/on switch.
Just to make sure do i use both switches on/off/on and the regular on/off switchas well and put everything together like this schematic.
Once again thanks for all of your patience.
Yes both, the first "on off"switch is a master that will turn everything off if you have a problem.
BJ and all thanks so much and also for being patient with me .
Now i can start to finish my project.
It may not be pretty but i'll post a picture here when its done.
In 3 weeks or so hope to get the other 2 regulators in link in post #183 that have the meters attached to them already and may have some questions about that one when the time comes but this one i finish first.
Now i can start to finish my project.
It may not be pretty but i'll post a picture here when its done.
In 3 weeks or so hope to get the other 2 regulators in link in post #183 that have the meters attached to them already and may have some questions about that one when the time comes but this one i finish first.
Well i scratch the box a little in doing things no big deal for me, put it loosely together, i soldered all the wires but left the reg board loose and tested .
It fired up and the meter worked as well.
Then the ground came off the 510 connector , i did not use flux when originally soldered as i have no more and got lazy and in a haste got the wire to stick just to test . Fired it back up with cover off cause of the loose reg board and then the ground came loose from the 510 connector and must have made real good contact with the positive wire in the 510 connector.
Right before my eyes a few wires turned red and melted the insulation off as i was scrambling to do something like shut it off. This happened in a matter of seconds.
Right after i shut it down i then went to pull the batteries and they were real hot as i could see the outer plastic wrap started to distort at the top part.
I tossed both batteries.
So now back to square one - i'll start all over again as i have 1 regulator board left along with a few spare parts as well.
One thing i did notice when i was testing it was that the potentiometer screw when i try to adjust only went from 5.8 to 6.1 no matter how much of turning it . It seemed like it would turn to infinity in counter or the clockwise position.
Any thought on that ?
It fired up and the meter worked as well.
Then the ground came off the 510 connector , i did not use flux when originally soldered as i have no more and got lazy and in a haste got the wire to stick just to test . Fired it back up with cover off cause of the loose reg board and then the ground came loose from the 510 connector and must have made real good contact with the positive wire in the 510 connector.
Right before my eyes a few wires turned red and melted the insulation off as i was scrambling to do something like shut it off. This happened in a matter of seconds.
Right after i shut it down i then went to pull the batteries and they were real hot as i could see the outer plastic wrap started to distort at the top part.
I tossed both batteries.
So now back to square one - i'll start all over again as i have 1 regulator board left along with a few spare parts as well.
One thing i did notice when i was testing it was that the potentiometer screw when i try to adjust only went from 5.8 to 6.1 no matter how much of turning it . It seemed like it would turn to infinity in counter or the clockwise position.
Any thought on that ?
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