I have...
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I'm having a few issues with it... such as the flooding of the vape chamber (I'm considering asdaq's solution of a non-see-through air chamber, lol)...I nailed the air hole and wicking though...it's just a little fragile to pack around...now if I can only sort out my SGV3 issues...I sold one of my GTUS's, I actually got it work real well by boring it out to 3mm and use a 45mm x 45mm wick but the tank leak and condensation build in the outer cap and "WHY!" it was decided to thread the outer all the way to the top providing a nice little catchment system for all that condensate is anyone's guess???I have one last GTUS in the CO-OP (the one I sold was a pre-release) and may keep it as a curiosity but as an every day reliable vape???...honestly, lately I've discovered IKV's io6's...I know you're an "anything fiber" hater and I respect that but those io6's (IKV's ver. of a 306) are in a word "awesome"...they're "I haven't touched my Ody in days" good, though I'm sure the novelty will wear off![]()
Two more switches to go. One to turn the meter off and a master switch. Waiting for a white 2.1mm plug for the PT. Need to figure out how paint the switch knobs white and find a white pot knob. These little screws on the pots are a PIA to stick a knob on.
I have some tact switches with white caps coming, going to try to connect one of the white caps to the pot. I have used, shrink tape, a piece of red tube from a WD-40 spray, a piece of a cocktail stirrer, all used to extend it a little to attach something else to it. Also tempted to solder a new 10K pot on it with a better knobI hate (and I mean really hate, a lot) that pot screw...although I stuck a 1/4" chunk of bottom feeder tubing (it's like 1/16" I.D.) on it then threaded a computer case screw into the other end...works pretty good, at least on a desktop PT, for a box you could try and fill the tube with epoxy...
... Also tempted to solder a new 10K pot on it with a better knob
How'd that work?
Any idea on the size of the pot that comes on these modules? The one in my ACDC (green board) is very sensitive in the 4 - 4.8V range (where I vape); below 4 and above 4.8 it has a bit more 'play'.
... Also tempted to solder a new 10K pot on it with a better knob
Why choose 10K if you are replacing? Is that what was in there?
Remember this thing has a very general voltage range of ~1.25-30V, hence the twitchyness of where we would vape.
You should spend some time perusing the datasheet and find a value (you may need two additional resistors) so as the whole range of the trimmer is usable/vapeable voltage.
This is an example of what you would want to avoid.
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Reclaiming the lost 'useless' area would allow for much smoother/easier transitions (improved granularity) between the small, ~0.1-0.2V increments many seem to desire.
The MadVapes VV kit also suffers from the same poor choice of values.
You knew that knob had to exist somewhere, good find TomCatt
Off topic but can't contain myself...just got requested over on VW to confirm whether I still want my Line SS...duh!![]()