Why does it have to be ugly? Some of the prettiest woodies I've seen are just common cedar.
Some of Para's work.

Wonder what's inside?

Just takes a little elbow grease.
Why does it have to be ugly? Some of the prettiest woodies I've seen are just common cedar.
Well I'm gonna bite the bullet and try this. After reading this thread (twice, lol), I found some scrap Cedar planks and I'm gonna make my own box mod. It might be UGLY but If it works, then I'll find a nice peice of wood and move everything over, lol. You guys ( and gals ) are awsome sharing you knowledge with all of us.
...my life gets in the way of my modding
-Sam
Here's a pick of the LM2596 running a 1 ohm dual coil set up on my Ody at 6.3V just to see how beyond spec this module would go before popping, completely silly, completely un-vapable but...and I'm still using it.
View attachment 92653
lol that's what I like to see - unsafe and ridiculous
Looks like I'll be ordering 10.
Was just thinking of how ubiquitous these modules would be if the size could be reduced. Minus a slight loss of efficiency compared to the other, more expensive switching regs, for $2 it's tough to pass these up.
And if they changed it so pin 5 was grounded with a removable jumper making remote tact switching easier...that's why I love the OKR's, I don't know about anyone else but I have mods where the components are scattered all over the place in the mod in the spirit of spacial maximization![]()
Got to get around to cutting the 5 pin on one and trying. Have some NC tack switches coming in.
A few months ago we looked at this:Aaah...I keep trying to apply OKR logic to this chip...with the OKR's if you put a 10k from pin 5 to ground (a drain) it's off till you put Vin to it with a NO sw which turns it "on"...these LM2596's are essentially opposite in nature...I just checked the data sheet of the LM2596...pin 5 has a 1.4v threshold, anything below that (or if pin 5 is just left open) then the reg is "on" (same as the OKR's but that's where they split)...with the LM2596's if you put up to Vin to pin 5 (over 1.4v) then it shuts "off" which is why you need the NC...for me (and this is my "electrician self" talking) I'm not a real big fan of controlling things with NC switches...I've found over the last 20yrs or so that when switches fail (and they all eventually do) they'll typically fail in the "open" state...not good if you're controlling a 2596
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/259577-just-lm2596-users-24.html#post5070651That's just it, pin 5 is by default hardwired to ground so that it works all the time...by lifting the pin and inserting a NC tact in wouldn't you just be breaking one connection and replacing it with another with an NC switch?![]()
That's just it, pin 5 is by default hardwired to ground so that it works all the time...by lifting the pin and inserting a NC tact in wouldn't you just be breaking one connection and replacing it with another with an NC switch?
Edit: OK BJ, we have to stop clicking "submit" simultaneously...ok that drawing you have makes sense, the reg is held off by the threshold v, close the cct to ground with the tact and it fires...I think that's a Jhonutz drawing right?
When I posted that comment, I hadn't metered out pin 5 yet and realized it was by default hardwired to ground...I thought that maybe it was just left open a la OKR![]()