Just For LM2596 Users

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BJ43

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Should be somewhere around there. But Specs on these chips are not always spot on. I just got a chip today from China ( not the LM2596's they are still not here ) it is supposed to have a adjustable output of 3 to 25 volts. Real life it went from 5 volts to 17.3 volts. Just modified it to go down to 3.2 . So i guess you cant really rely on these sellers to put in the correct specs all the time. Does your chip really go down to 1.5 volts? Since it is a led Model i wouldn't take it over the 25 volts might just fry the LED. I guess really all you can do is slap a 3k pot on that joker and see what she does.
Just using the installed meter it goes down to to 2.5 and the meter dims and goes off any lower.
 

Quigsworth

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Will it fit in the top area of this box.

Short answer, no, lol...this is a glue gun it to the side of a XBox PSU type module...take a deck of cards, cut the deck and there you have it...it's a beast, but it looks really cool! and it's well made...I've been vaping on mine already, I did just that, I stuck it on an XBox PSU (that was my plan all along) as my old franken PT is going to the cabin...I'm just working on my dummy adjustable battery so I can PT a number of my mods...I'll try and post some pics tonight but for whatever reason my posted pics are all disappearing...but I'll at least give my mini review...stay tuned
 

WillyB

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So a 3K pot will give me 1.5 to 8.61 volts, cool.....

Quote Originally Posted by Java_Az View Post
If in fact the R1 resistor is 500 ohms a 5K pot would give you 1.5 volts to 13.53 volts . A 1k pot would give you a range of 1.5 volts to 3.69volts .
All right let me throw this at ya.

If R1 = 500Ω get a 1k resistor for R2. That should give you ~3.75V. Now add a 1kΩ trimmer in series to R2 for a total of 2K which should give about ~6.25V. Your vaping voltages are now 3.75 - 6.25V and capped on both ends by the trimmer.

Or using an 800Ω R2 resistor + 1k trimmer will be about ~3.25 - 5.75V.

I think that is right, note it's just theoretical you'll have to meter everything and test.
 

BJ43

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All right let me throw this at ya.

If R1 = 500Ω get a 1k resistor for R2. That should give you ~3.75V. Now add a 1kΩ trimmer in series to R2 for a total of 2K which should give about ~6.25V. Your vaping voltages are now 3.75 - 6.25V and capped on both ends by the trimmer.

Or using an 800Ω R2 resistor + 1k trimmer will be about ~3.25 - 5.75V.

I think that is right, note it's just theoretical you'll have to meter everything and test.
WillyB a drawing would help, I can handle soldering the three post of a new pot to the three holes in the board but do not know to what poles or holes to solder the resistors to.
 

Quigsworth

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Ok, running the V/A module and here are my findings and I'm not all that impressed...these results are from testing on a 1.8 ohm cisco 801 which meters out to 1.7 (Fluke) - 1.8 (RS special), no demonstrable resistance from module V out to atty, wire from module to atty is 4' of 14 awg copper (high end speaker wire). Module is being feed with 12v via a XBox PSU with a rated output of 4A, also, I did several vape pulses during metering to get a stable hot r on the atty...

To get 3.9 load v to the atty, module must be set to 5.2 no-load v:(

The no-load v is 5.2v, Fluke and module meter agree.

Load V (measured at atty and at the V out lugs on the module) is 3.9v (Fluke) but 4.7v as per the module meter:(

Odd thing is, the actual load v (going to say the Fluke reading is actual) and atty r work out to 2.167 A (ohms law) module ammeter reads 2.16A :) (I say odd because up and down my testing range the ammeter was dead bang on re: Ohm's Law

This thing has just a bit of an efficiency problem I'd say :D
 

Quigsworth

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Side bar...this thing comes with an instruction sheet for set up...kind of impressive I thought...until you start to read it.

Ok, I'll admit, the authors English is probably way better than my Cantonese but I'm still laughing, it's like the guy at Google Translate washed down a Valium with a couple shots of PGA :laugh::laugh::laugh:
 

BJ43

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Ok, running the V/A module and here are my findings and I'm not all that impressed...these results are from testing on a 1.8 ohm cisco 801 which meters out to 1.7 (Fluke) - 1.8 (RS special), no demonstrable resistance from module V out to atty, wire from module to atty is 4' of 14 awg copper (high end speaker wire). Module is being feed with 12v via a XBox PSU with a rated output of 4A, also, I did several vape pulses during metering to get a stable hot r on the atty...

To get 3.9 load v to the atty, module must be set to 5.2 no-load v:(

The no-load v is 5.2v, Fluke and module meter agree.

Load V (measured at atty and at the V out lugs on the module) is 3.9v (Fluke) but 4.7v as per the module meter:(

Odd thing is, the actual load v (going to say the Fluke reading is actual) and atty r work out to 2.167 A (ohms law) module ammeter reads 2.16A :) (I say odd because up and down my testing range the ammeter was dead bang on re: Ohm's Law

This thing has just a bit of an efficiency problem I'd say :D
Did you have the amp pot cranked up to its highest value...
 

Quigsworth

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Yup, it max's at 2.65 A, which under normal circumstances is plenty (at least for me) but when you get almost 3 watts in loses somewhere between the V in and V out...that's not cool.

I Ebay emailed the seller:
...his site says primary language is Chinese (no such language as Chinese but whatever?) so keep it basic, fine, no problem...

Dear 32668,

12v to input, set to 5.2v for output, under a 1.8 ohm load the module v meter reads 4.7v but actual is only 3.9v. That is a 1.3 v drop, at 2.16a that is a 2.8 watt loss! I will not recommend this to others on my global forum.


See what he says, stay tuned...
 

Java_Az

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Thanks for the insight into these modules Java!

:blink: <--- me reading a datasheet :D

Your Welcome Tom

WillyB a drawing would help, I can handle soldering the three post of a new pot to the three holes in the board but do not know to what poles or holes to solder the resistors to.

If your slapping a trimmer right back in the same holes there is no good way to add a resistor in series with the pot. Puts you back in the same boat of not wanting to solder a 0604 smd resistor. Now say if you were going to put a real pot in the ones you can slap a dial on and were running wires to the board it would be easy to put a resistor in line on one of the wires. That is what i am going to do with mine add a true pot instead of a trimmer. Bad thing about trimmers is they are not really made to be turned all that much. Most are only rated @ 200 cycles. They are more for tuning a circuit or calibrating it once in awhile. True pots have much higher cycle ratings. Like take a look at this data sheethttp://www.bourns.com/data/global/pdfs/3590.pdf this pot has a rating of 1,000,000 shaft rotations so if it is a 10 turn pot thats 100,000 cycles. huge difference from 200.

i would say it is the amps pot turned down also unless the reg is broken. That switching chip should not be dropping out like that.
 
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Quigsworth

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This is interesting...1.8 ohm load

Set the I limit to 2.5A
V out 5v no load, 4.5v load (module meter) or 3.8v according to Fluke, 2.09A

Set the I limit to 1.5A
V out 5v no load, 3.2v load (module meter) or 2.7v according to Fluke, 1.5A

It kicks the v down to limit the I and the yellow LED lights to let you know you're at your set max...

At the end of the day it's a cool little toy and I do like the I limiter...especially if your tweaking Genesis coils, I'm just not all that keen on the v drop of this thing and having to compensate for it by setting your output v to 5v cause you want 3.8v

EDIT: when I say "I" I mean amps, sorry force of habit
 
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BJ43

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This is interesting...1.8 ohm load

Set the I limit to 2.5A
V out 5v no load, 4.5v load (module meter) or 3.8v according to Fluke, 2.09A

Set the I limit to 1.5A
V out 5v no load, 3.2v load (module meter) or 2.7v according to Fluke, 1.5A

It kicks the v down to limit the I and the yellow LED lights to let you know you're at your set max...

At the end of the day it's a cool little toy and I do like the I limiter...especially if your tweaking Genesis coils, I'm just not all that keen on the v drop of this thing and having to compensate for it by setting your output v to 5v cause you want 3.8v

EDIT: when I say "I" I mean amps, sorry force of habit

I think you said you ordered two of these. Do both have that voltage drop. I just tested mine at 5v out with 12v 5 amp source on a 2.5 0hm coil and am only getting a .21v drop on the units meter and .23v on my external meter.
 

Java_Az

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Which one is it on these boards. The post that is closest to the R1 on the board??

You just have to look at the trace and follow it from the feedback pin to where the pot is. More the likely the center pin and a outer pin are going to go to ground then the one outer pin left will go to the regulators feedback pin. So in all likely-hood it would be the pin closest to R1. It is hard for me to say for sure without being able to see the circuit up close. Maybe i will get lucky and the (Sexy) Mail Lady will bring my boards today.
 
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