Thanks for the insight into these modules Java!
<--- me reading a datasheet 

Just using the installed meter it goes down to to 2.5 and the meter dims and goes off any lower.Should be somewhere around there. But Specs on these chips are not always spot on. I just got a chip today from China ( not the LM2596's they are still not here ) it is supposed to have a adjustable output of 3 to 25 volts. Real life it went from 5 volts to 17.3 volts. Just modified it to go down to 3.2 . So i guess you cant really rely on these sellers to put in the correct specs all the time. Does your chip really go down to 1.5 volts? Since it is a led Model i wouldn't take it over the 25 volts might just fry the LED. I guess really all you can do is slap a 3k pot on that joker and see what she does.
Will it fit in the top area of this box.
So a 3K pot will give me 1.5 to 8.61 volts, cool.....
All right let me throw this at ya.Quote Originally Posted by Java_Az View Post
If in fact the R1 resistor is 500 ohms a 5K pot would give you 1.5 volts to 13.53 volts . A 1k pot would give you a range of 1.5 volts to 3.69volts .
WillyB a drawing would help, I can handle soldering the three post of a new pot to the three holes in the board but do not know to what poles or holes to solder the resistors to.All right let me throw this at ya.
If R1 = 500Ω get a 1k resistor for R2. That should give you ~3.75V. Now add a 1kΩ trimmer in series to R2 for a total of 2K which should give about ~6.25V. Your vaping voltages are now 3.75 - 6.25V and capped on both ends by the trimmer.
Or using an 800Ω R2 resistor + 1k trimmer will be about ~3.25 - 5.75V.
I think that is right, note it's just theoretical you'll have to meter everything and test.
Did you have the amp pot cranked up to its highest value...Ok, running the V/A module and here are my findings and I'm not all that impressed...these results are from testing on a 1.8 ohm cisco 801 which meters out to 1.7 (Fluke) - 1.8 (RS special), no demonstrable resistance from module V out to atty, wire from module to atty is 4' of 14 awg copper (high end speaker wire). Module is being feed with 12v via a XBox PSU with a rated output of 4A, also, I did several vape pulses during metering to get a stable hot r on the atty...
To get 3.9 load v to the atty, module must be set to 5.2 no-load v
The no-load v is 5.2v, Fluke and module meter agree.
Load V (measured at atty and at the V out lugs on the module) is 3.9v (Fluke) but 4.7v as per the module meter
Odd thing is, the actual load v (going to say the Fluke reading is actual) and atty r work out to 2.167 A (ohms law) module ammeter reads 2.16A(I say odd because up and down my testing range the ammeter was dead bang on re: Ohm's Law
This thing has just a bit of an efficiency problem I'd say![]()
Thanks for the insight into these modules Java!
<--- me reading a datasheet
![]()
WillyB a drawing would help, I can handle soldering the three post of a new pot to the three holes in the board but do not know to what poles or holes to solder the resistors to.
This is interesting...1.8 ohm load
Set the I limit to 2.5A
V out 5v no load, 4.5v load (module meter) or 3.8v according to Fluke, 2.09A
Set the I limit to 1.5A
V out 5v no load, 3.2v load (module meter) or 2.7v according to Fluke, 1.5A
It kicks the v down to limit the I and the yellow LED lights to let you know you're at your set max...
At the end of the day it's a cool little toy and I do like the I limiter...especially if your tweaking Genesis coils, I'm just not all that keen on the v drop of this thing and having to compensate for it by setting your output v to 5v cause you want 3.8v
EDIT: when I say "I" I mean amps, sorry force of habit
Java_Az. ok on extending with wires but to witch post on the pot do I solder the resistor, an outer post or the center post?
I would slap it on the one that goes to the regulators feedback pin. Thats the safe bet anyways.
This is interesting...1.8 ohm load
Set the I limit to 2.5A
V out 5v no load, 4.5v load (module meter) or 3.8v according to Fluke, 2.09A
Set the I limit to 1.5A
V out 5v no load, 3.2v load (module meter) or 2.7v according to Fluke, 1.5A
It kicks the v down to limit the I and the yellow LED lights to let you know you're at your set max...
At the end of the day it's a cool little toy and I do like the I limiter...especially if your tweaking Genesis coils, I'm just not all that keen on the v drop of this thing and having to compensate for it by setting your output v to 5v cause you want 3.8v
EDIT: when I say "I" I mean amps, sorry force of habit
Which one is it on these boards. The post that is closest to the R1 on the board??