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I have done this somewhat in soldering a small spring to the end of the brass screw, but it is very easy to mess up the blue housing of the pot. The screw continues inside the pot with worm threading and the heat is also drawn inside and can make the turning irregular. It is much easier to make this connection with super glue, and likely as good mechanically.
Hmmm, thought I had responded to this early this morning; guess the iPod had a hiccup.
I use 14500s with LM2596 mods. These are 900 mAh Trustfire ("Flames"). I have some 16340 880 mAh TF batteries that I use in my Saber Touch. So assuming that the Trustfire mAhs are at least somewhat accurate, I see no reason why 16340s wouldn't be fine for the LM2596.
What kind of batt life are you guys getting off 14500s? I want to keep it as small and simple as possible and I'm stuck between 14500 and 18350s. I wouldn't say I'm a heavy vaper but there are days where I vape my face off. My spot is from 4.5 to 5v on 2.0-2.5 ohm attys or tanks. I'm gonna machine an alu box, I won't need a heat sink this way correct? I want to do a split setup inside with chip in the middle switch in the middle and atty connection in the middle, which will be machined in there also. Also would like to use the box itself for grounds if possible or even needed. I will draw something up and post it in a bit.
My 14500 TFs are 900 mAh, 18350 TFs are 1200 mAh. So I'd think the 18350s would give longer run times. I get around 12 hrs (~2.5 - 3mL) on the 14500s running at 6 watts.
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This is what I came up with. I think it will be ok, thoughts?
Anybody has a link to 18350 battery holder? I will need to order that and switch and I can start milling. It should be a sweet setup. Gotta think of a knob too and mill setting pockets on the battery cover. I will powder coat it when its all done. Or leave it raw lol.
Anybody has a link to 18350 battery holder? I will need to order that and switch and I can start milling. It should be a sweet setup. Gotta think of a knob too and mill setting pockets on the battery cover. I will powder coat it when its all done. Or leave it raw lol.
Just a though Urquidezj, why not use your alu box as your ground?...the switch casing is isolated, as soon as you press your atty con into it's bore that connection is done, all you'd have to do is isolate your batt pos connections and your board. I use Mylar sheet a lot in mod building but you can also use that clear plastic that makes up one of those blister packages that's impossible to open or just lay down a thick layer of epoxy...just a thought and makes for a clean build.
I don't know about 18350 batter holders, but there are 18XXX battery holders. Could cut a section out of the middle and epoxy the ends in place.
18500 Cell Holder
18650 battery holder | eBay
www . sz-worldsales . com/category-107-b0-Battery+Holders.html
18500 Cell Holder
18650 battery holder | eBay
www . sz-worldsales . com/category-107-b0-Battery+Holders.html
Agree, in fact, all you need are the ends, that way the batts aren't sitting up on what's left of the batt holder back plate...just takes up space and makes for a thicker than need be box
Seems like a very awkward place to put a fire switch.This is what I came up with. I think it will be ok, thoughts?
Anybody has a link to 18350 battery holder? I will need to order that and switch and I can start milling. It should be a sweet setup. Gotta think of a knob too and mill setting pockets on the battery cover. I will powder coat it when its all done. Or leave it raw lol.
Even worse than this awkward position.
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I completely agree...total form over function on that mod...but sometimes you just have to say "meh"...I thought, ya know, those 3 little ball tacts might look kinda cool all in a row like that...screw it, I'm doing it 
Help me understand you better, are you saying I can make my own mech switch? It does not need to be a horn switch? I also forgot about the on off switch. I want the switch in that position. GG-esque. If I could make a mechanical switch that be perfect.
Put the switch where ever you want, it's only awkward if you think it is, that's the beauty of making your own mod...though I will admit to holding something about the same size/shape as the mod I'm planning on building to see if my fingers will like my brains plans ...I meant the switch "body" is isolated electrically from the terminals of the switch (you drew what appeared to be one of those SS flush mounted vandal proof switches like this: Metal Vandal Proof Momentary Push Button Switch 2A 250V | eBay you have the space I'd go for one of those instead of messing about with home brewed switches for now
...I meant the switch "body" is isolated electrically from the terminals of the switch (you drew what appeared to be one of those SS flush mounted vandal proof switches like this: Metal Vandal Proof Momentary Push Button Switch 2A 250V | eBay you have the space I'd go for one of those instead of messing about with home brewed switches for now
Be careful urquidezj...I've seen your work, it's no doubt going to be awesome and we're all going to hate you
Hahahaha come on quigs! I want to be able to remove the chip in case anything happens. I'm thinking small screws n nuts to secure the wires with miniature ring connectors I found a stash at my work packed with electronics they no longer use. I'll scavenge lol I found some LCD screens but wouldn't know what to do with em. An electrical person would be in heaven
what power supply are you guys using for pass-throughs with this chip? I have some chips on the way and want to make one of them a pass-through.
If you have an old PC kicking around you can use the PSU out of it, as well as laptop, XBox, etc PSU's...you probably have something in your house already...the LM2596's are pretty versatile, they'll work best with anything from say 9VDC up to 24VDC that puts out as TC noted at least 2A...higher A's are fine, you'll only use what you use.
idk what input voltage range this particular regulator has (thread caught my eye with the custom enclosure being milled
) but I've had great results repurposing a heavy duty 12v LED driver and laptop charger. I've heard of people using PC power supplies, pretty much anything that converts AC to DC in the right voltage range that can put out enough power. 12v 2 amp should be more than enough, which would make it handle 24 watts. Maybe even 1.5 amp, considering how efficient this chip is.- Status
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