Size: Approx. 1.8 x 1.3 x 0.5 inch (L x W x H)
I've never scoped anything, I swear!
......... 
I've never scoped anything, I swear!
......... - Status
im looking to build a 2 18650 vv mod with the lm2596. What do you guys think of the boards like these with a voltmeter attached, is it worth it or does it take up too much real estate? DC 4 5 28V to 1 3 25V LM2596 Step Down Converter with Blue LED Panel Voltmeter | eBay Thanks for your help! 
Size: Approx. 1.8 x 1.3 x 0.5 inch (L x W x H)
I've never scoped anything, I swear!
I scope three native girls as they breakin my Lydias wicks.
im looking to build a 2 18650 vv mod with the lm2596. What do you guys think of the boards like these with a voltmeter attached, is it worth it or does it take up too much real estate? DC 4 5 28V to 1 3 25V LM2596 Step Down Converter with Blue LED Panel Voltmeter | eBay Thanks for your help!
Have two going for several months.
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z391/bj431/IMG_1677.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z391/bj431/IMG_1374.jpg
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Building a DNA mod in a 18650 case Quig recommended and feel guilty. Feel like I am cheating on all my LM2596 girlfriends.
Heretic
Hey BJ43, just built my first mod using one of the "improved" ccts. Thanks to everyone and their posts on here.
That's ok BJ...if it makes you feel any better, I bought a $40 beat to crap Zmax off the classy's and ripped it's brain out...ran the module through a battery of tests and it works perfect...just doing the box lay-out now...first time I've ever had to make allowances in the batt slot to run either 1 18650 or stacked 18350's...I'm actually playing around with using one of the springs from the parallel box's you're about to use, tons of spring travel...might just fit the bill...
Heretic
Hey BJ43, just built my first mod using one of the "improved" ccts. Thanks to everyone and their posts on here.
Pics or it didn't happen....
I am building it with two 18650 parallel and the charger board. One of my hobbies is fly fishing for bonefish and tarpon, and that is about the only time I really need a battery for a long time. The case came with a nice belt sleeve, and with two 18650's it should be great for up to ten hours. Couldn't get a 2596 into the small space above the batteries and have been wanting to try a DNA. Now after I bought it I see they are coming out with a 20 amp DNA with a meter. All the Miss LM2596's will just have to accept that I gave in to temptation. Not the first or the last time, I hope.
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Here's a couple pics of a Zmax's brain (LM2596 beside it for size comparison)
Hey BJ, just for something to do...plus it's your thread (which I certainly don't want to hijack)...but with your permission, I'll post a photo step by step build using this thing...(I mean, it's kinda like a module, lol)...this build will be around a bottom fed A7, it'll be side airhold drilled version, bottom air is sealed off with an o ring (allowing feed only)
Hey BJ, just for something to do...plus it's your thread (which I certainly don't want to hijack)...but with your permission, I'll post a photo step by step build using this thing...(I mean, it's kinda like a module, lol)...this build will be around a bottom fed A7, it'll be side airhold drilled version, bottom air is sealed off with an o ring (allowing feed only)
So here's how I'm building this one... first start with my fav Hammond 1591ASBK box it's 100 x 50 x 21mm with a lap joint top.
then lay-out with my dead as s--t TF batt and a 6ml bottle with the tip cut off and a carto plug (buys you 1/4+ of height savings), I'll drill out the top left and two bottom lid screw lugs so I can place the module as per pic, put a long spring under the batt(s) and slide the bottle over a bit so I can get dividers in and a piece of milled polycarb in to hold the master on/off
I'm going to sink the A7 in up to where the bevel starts...the atty con gets cut down (remove the lower flange) and will be mounted in another piece of polycarb so I can get a flat surface around the atty conn so I can get an o ring seal...
It should all work (best laid plans of mice and men...), so next the box goes into the cross slide vice under the end mill in the drill press and I'll remove the 3 lugs and any PCB mounting slots as required them cut the openings for the module and test fit it before to much gets in the way...stay tuned...
then lay-out with my dead as s--t TF batt and a 6ml bottle with the tip cut off and a carto plug (buys you 1/4+ of height savings), I'll drill out the top left and two bottom lid screw lugs so I can place the module as per pic, put a long spring under the batt(s) and slide the bottle over a bit so I can get dividers in and a piece of milled polycarb in to hold the master on/off
I'm going to sink the A7 in up to where the bevel starts...the atty con gets cut down (remove the lower flange) and will be mounted in another piece of polycarb so I can get a flat surface around the atty conn so I can get an o ring seal...
It should all work (best laid plans of mice and men...), so next the box goes into the cross slide vice under the end mill in the drill press and I'll remove the 3 lugs and any PCB mounting slots as required them cut the openings for the module and test fit it before to much gets in the way...stay tuned...
hey guys. i finished my passthrough using the lm2596 about a week ago (pics to come soon). i was thinking of wiring one to my car battery for a permanent car passthrough. last night i found an old car cigarette charger so i wired a 5.5, 2.5 male plug so i can bring the passyhrough with me. it works great but creates static on the radio when i fire it. what's up with that! ?!? is there any way to get rid of the static?
Mine creates static on the radio also but only seems to be on the weak stations. Adding capacitors might clear it up they are good at filtering noise out of the power. If i am remembering correctly ceramic caps are good at filtering lower end noise and the electrolytic caps are better at the high end noise. IF you scoped it you could find out what frequency needs to be filtered. You could also just add the caps and see what happens.
No idea if this would work or if it's even worth the trouble; but looks cool 
Building a simple Alternator whine / ignition filter
Building a simple Alternator whine / ignition filter
Guys just a quick question for the lm2596 gurus here.
I decided to build my first mod(s) using this chip. I read the entire thread, bought all the needed parts except batteries.
My question is if i should buy the trustfire ones or the imr madvapes sell.
Are the trustfires capable of outputing the amps that the chip is capable?
I will be putting a voltmeter in all my mods so i am not worried about overdischarging.
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
I decided to build my first mod(s) using this chip. I read the entire thread, bought all the needed parts except batteries.
My question is if i should buy the trustfire ones or the imr madvapes sell.
Are the trustfires capable of outputing the amps that the chip is capable?
I will be putting a voltmeter in all my mods so i am not worried about overdischarging.
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
I've been using the Trustfire Flames 14500s in my ACDC. Although the MV EH IMRs are very inexpensive. I've gotten some EH 14500s for a L-Rider Robust vv mod I'm getting (prolly this week ) in a co-op.
These are buck modules so, I think, the extra voltage can give a higher current than what just one ICR battery would provide. How about it, electric/electronic whizzes, am I talking out me nether end here?
) in a co-op. These are buck modules so, I think, the extra voltage can give a higher current than what just one ICR battery would provide. How about it, electric/electronic whizzes, am I talking out me nether end here?
So here is my DNA with two 3100 mAh Panasonic's. Waiting for a pot with a knob that gets here tomorrow. Charger works great.
I've been using the Trustfire Flames 14500s in my ACDC. Although the MV EH IMRs are very inexpensive. I've gotten some EH 14500s for a L-Rider Robust vv mod I'm getting (prolly this week
These are buck modules so, I think, the extra voltage can give a higher current than what just one ICR battery would provide. How about it, electric/electronic whizzes, am I talking out me nether end here?
from what i can remember when searching for the appropriate batteries i think trustfires have a discharge rate of 1,5C.
if i understand this correctly it means that the battery can discharge safely 1.5 time the batteries mah. which in our case is 750 true mah from the tests that several people performed on them.
So 750*1.5=1125 so a little over 1amp.
i think that 14500 batteries dont let the lm2596 release 3 amps or they do release it but it overstressses the batteries.with bigger batteries like 18650 2000mah that it will be ok.
am i right
are the imr the way to safely get the full prodential of the chip?
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