i've got several Ipod cords strewn about...can that switch be sourced from radio shack?
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I actually like this switch, nice feel, held up well.
Mini SPST 1.5-Amp Momentary Pushbutton Switch (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com
Here's the official NicoStick one.
3A 125V SPST Normally Open Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
Mini SPST 1.5-Amp Momentary Pushbutton Switch (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com
Here's the official NicoStick one.
3A 125V SPST Normally Open Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
FYI - you don't NEED to cut the wires... if you use it on a wall adapter. The data wires are irrelevant as far as I know for the wall warts.
If there have EVER been any issues with using a resistor on the data lines, please point me at the post. Thx.
I told him to cut the data wires because he has them hooked straight together No Resistor and using it in a computer and TV box. I just figured it cant be good for a USB controller to have those wires hooked together when USB 2.0 specs say they need to have at LEAST a 200 ohm resistor connecting them to set the controller into charge mode and give the port more amps. But yes it wont matter on a wall adapter or a battery charging card because they don't use the data wires, doesnt matter if there is a 200ohm resistor or not the USB port will give full amps with a wall charger or battery card or even a powered usb hub. But if you Hook the hub to a pc and use it for other devices you once again dont want your data wires shorted out. My main concern was having them shorted together when plugging them into a something that uses the data lines.
so...a list of stuff i need to make a passthrough: USB cable, USB to wall plug, a container of sorts, a button, a wee bit o wire, and an atty thingy? are crimp connectors acceptable since my soldering skills are virtually non-existant?
gotcha. thanks for the vid. i guess the next question would be how the deuce do i get this 510 manual battery apart without destroying something important or wounding myself?
k...got the button in the link up yonder at radio shack and picked up a small project box while i was there. i've got electrical tools and solder, so now all i gotta do is get this battery apart so i can pilfer the connecter, drill here, cut there, solder that, plug it in and vape away! so what designates voltage, anyway? is it the power supply?
Cool Java_Az. Sry... Didn't mean to hi-jack. Way to go RedDeath5.... Keep plugging!
P.S. Yes the power supply determines the voltage. FYI - You can just cut the end off the 510 battery with a pipe cutter just behind the button and solder to that instead of the connector. Or, some people use an old busted atty to screw into it and pull it out (it's hard...they are usually only glued in tho). Wiggle it out if you can. There's a thread on this.
<rummages around>
Ah, ha! http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/117277-removeing-batt-connectors.html
The thing is, if you want it recessed in a hole, you want to remove it from the battery tube. But, if you want, say, a black atty battery connector protruding slightly from the mod, you can just cut the battery. The battery tube is the ground connection. The atty center connection is positive. (Technically it doesn't matter that much, but I like the "outside" is grounded idea).
P.S. Yes the power supply determines the voltage. FYI - You can just cut the end off the 510 battery with a pipe cutter just behind the button and solder to that instead of the connector. Or, some people use an old busted atty to screw into it and pull it out (it's hard...they are usually only glued in tho). Wiggle it out if you can. There's a thread on this.
<rummages around>
Ah, ha! http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/117277-removeing-batt-connectors.html
The thing is, if you want it recessed in a hole, you want to remove it from the battery tube. But, if you want, say, a black atty battery connector protruding slightly from the mod, you can just cut the battery. The battery tube is the ground connection. The atty center connection is positive. (Technically it doesn't matter that much, but I like the "outside" is grounded idea).
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Correct, but remember we want the voltage while vaping (loaded, under load etc.).
You can use this calculator.
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
As an example let's start with a SLB 510 (3.2Ω) on a 5V @ 2000mA (2A)supply. Plug 5V and 3.2Ω into the calculator and we get 1.6A for current. The 2A supply will easily run this atty at 5V. Now for a Joye 510 (2.2Ω) do the same. It wants 2.3A for 5V. You only have 2A available. So plunk 2A and 2.2Ω into the calculator to see what volts the Joye will run at, we get 4.4V.
Those are theoretical numbers, in the real world you'll have extra resistance due to USB fittings and cables. In my case the true volts, measured, using a 2A USB supply and Joye atty (mine read 2.1Ω) was 4.17V. But FWIW that is a 35% increase in watts (heat/power) over a standard 14500 Li-Ion battery mod. For me I don't really need much more.
Note when not under load any USB device, adapter, computer, hub etc will read ~5V. That voltage is useless and means nothing. We want the vaping volts, with the atty connected and sucking current.
okay...got it wired, screwed together, plugged in and vaping. I'm using a 5v/1a plug (my wife's Palm pixie charger plug), and it's vaping like my old NPro would when I was low on juice. I've tried two or three different attys, including the one I've had on my fake Ego for the last week, but it's not doing much. maybe I should try a higher amp plug?
Yes, generally you need at least 1.5A (1500mA), I've used 1A, but like you said, it leaves a lot to be desired...
Edit: if Java says 2A, I'd go with that, he is (probably much) more knowledgeable then I on the subject, and I am only speaking from personal experience of what's worked for me...
Edit: if Java says 2A, I'd go with that, he is (probably much) more knowledgeable then I on the subject, and I am only speaking from personal experience of what's worked for me...
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Yea! Whoo Hoo! Congrats.
FYI - I use one of these:
2 amp AC to USB Adapter, ideal for Passthroughs
Whatever you use, go for the full 2 amps if at all possible.
yup...it was the plug. I hooked it up to a USB port on my laptop with a crashed hard drive and it's vapin up a storm now!!!
For statements to be meaningful some details need to be given.
I'm a Joye 510 user, 1.5A will give me about 3.2V. Worthless. A 2A adapter gives me about 4.17V (measured). Not bad.
yeah...i guess i should mention that i'm using it for a 510 setup. i need to get a 2 amp plug for the wall. right now, i've got it plugged into a USB port on my old laptop with a blown hard drive, so i wanna do something a little less ghetto. i mean, i was born in a military hospital In Georgia, but still...standards...
I use a 2 amp powered USB hub you can get them on ebay for less then 10 bucks shipped. Plus you can always use it as a USB hub, for other devices. Also gives you more range then a wall adapter because they are powered with a wall adapter that has a cord about 3 feet or so that then plugs into the 7 port USB hub.
would good or bad things happen if i stumbled across a higher-than-2-amp plug? also, do they have to be 5v?
Well your going to be hard pressed to find a USB adapter at anything else then 5 volts thats the standard. It wont hurt anything to have more amps it will only use as many as it needs. right now i am vaping a 2.7 ohm atomizer @ 5 volts. It is drawing 1.8 amps. So it would be fine on a 2 amp USB adapter. But if i had it on a 1.5 amp or a 1 amp it would be starving for amps. You would get a pretty big voltage drop. It might still work just fine but it wouldn't be working as well as it could or working to it's full potential. A atomizer below 2.5 ohms on a 2amp adapter is going to be starving. The lower the atomizers ohms the more amps it will require. If i plugged in a 1.5 ohm LR atomizer @ 5 volts it will want 3.33 amps. So if i had a 5volt 4 amp adapter and ran the LR atomizer it would only use or draw 3.33 amps from the adapter. The amp rating on the adapter means it can put out that many amps if needed, doesnt mean your device will get 4 amps by pluging it in. The resistance in the circuit dictates how many amps it can use.
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