Just Kicked Vmod xl here....

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BJ43

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I want to kick my Vmod. I know there are many posts out there, but hard to find sometimes. Thought a thread just for kicked Vmods would make it easier for all who want to do this mod. What battery? 18500 or 18490? Best way to connect the negative? Please post how you did it and the results. Links to batteries.
Also post kicked with 18650 battery.
 
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muzichead

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First off, it is very difficult to kick the XL for use with an 18650 battery. Most kicked XL's use an 18490 battery. You should also only use AW IMR batteries with the Kick. I buy all my batteries from RTD Vapor AW Batteries.

You can take a look inside this thread for a couple of ways to put the Kick in an XL.... You will find them in post #'s 61 & 63. Mine is post #63.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lling-all-vmodders-those-interested-vmod.html

Here are a couple youtube video's for modding it as well...
w/ 18650 V MOD XL with kick & 18650 - YouTube
w/ 18490 Vmod XL copper foil setup for Kick - YouTube
 

BadDaddy4007

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I've thought about kicking my Xl, especially since I have two of them now. But I want to get at least one of my rba's working on it before I do. What would be the advantage of kicking one? This is my first mechanical and I'm still getting use to it. I do use it more then my tube mods, which are both vv/vw.
 

BJ43

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I've thought about kicking my Xl, especially since I have two of them now. But I want to get at least one of my rba's working on it before I do. What would be the advantage of kicking one? This is my first mechanical and I'm still getting use to it. I do use it more then my tube mods, which are both vv/vw.

My problem with mechanicals is their inconsistencies, I get a few harsh vapes when the battery is full charge, then some good vapes as it discharges, then weak vapes at or below 3.6 V. The kick just wipes out the inconsistencies. I am not into sub ohm. The kick clone in my chi chi is giving me 12 watts on load with a 28g 1.5ohm coil.
 

MasterofNone

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This picture i put together diagrams the 18650 + kick setup. However, you have to cut the bottle down, and I'm still not sure how I plan on doing that without leakage because removing some off the threads well... I can't imagine that doing anything to the OVERALL length. My bottle already fits flush, and my kick ( or at least my kick clone) needs what is probably between a quarter and eight inch more to fit. If I thread the wires ( including negative) ALL through the top of the partition, I can probably cut much of that extra height requirement because the kick will slide in and out to take bottle out, but something will still need to be done. Lol


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duqy3evu.jpg
 

muzichead

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I've thought about kicking my Xl, especially since I have two of them now. But I want to get at least one of my rba's working on it before I do. What would be the advantage of kicking one? This is my first mechanical and I'm still getting use to it. I do use it more then my tube mods, which are both vv/vw.

A consistent vape for the length of battery life.
 

Ryedan

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This picture i put together diagrams the 18650 + kick setup. However, you have to cut the bottle down, and I'm still not sure how I plan on doing that without leakage because removing some off the threads well... I can't imagine that doing anything to the OVERALL length. My bottle already fits flush, and my kick ( or at least my kick clone) needs what is probably between a quarter and eight inch more to fit. If I thread the wires ( including negative) ALL through the top of the partition, I can probably cut much of that extra height requirement because the kick will slide in and out to take bottle out, but something will still need to be done. Lol


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duqy3evu.jpg

Had a thought after seeing your design Timothy. Could probably add a compartment to the bottom of the chassis. Make it out of wood, band saw to rough size, sand to finished size, drill to make room for the kick and pass wires through. Paint it black. Screw and/or glue to the chassis. It would make the XL a bit longer, but only around 3/8 inch.
 

EddieAdams

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This picture i put together diagrams the 18650 + kick setup. However, you have to cut the bottle down, and I'm still not sure how I plan on doing that without leakage because removing some off the threads well... I can't imagine that doing anything to the OVERALL length. My bottle already fits flush, and my kick ( or at least my kick clone) needs what is probably between a quarter and eight inch more to fit. If I thread the wires ( including negative) ALL through the top of the partition, I can probably cut much of that extra height requirement because the kick will slide in and out to take bottle out, but something will still need to be done. Lol


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duqy3evu.jpg

I liked it just for the picture alone, how do you not? Thing rocks!
 

tearose50

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The picture above is an 18490 battery with Kick on top.

The Kick was made so people with 18650 mods could use their mods with the module and experience excellent quality vw vaping, just switching to using the AW 18490 battery.

Modding the vmod for that is a very simple method.

A few tube mods exist that are longer and a few companies made extensions for existing mods to make enough room for the Kick module plus an 18650 battery after it was first released and became a hit.

And, a couple of clever and more mod minded individuals have modded the Vmod for use with an 18650 battery which are referenced earlier in this thread. Muzichead is a very accessable expert on that!
 
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BJ43

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Ok, to start I did a simple kicked setup. Cut a 3/8" by 2" strip of copper tape and folded it twice. After folding I had a 3/8" X 1/2" rectangle of tape with conductive side out back and front. I left the paper on the adhesive tape on to give me more thickness. Placed this tape in so it presses between the neg wire and the kick. 18500 IMR and vaping away. Will see if I can live with less battery time, if not I will mod it for the 18650. Seems to be working great especially with the blind squonking mod.



 

Rickajho

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Having just got a kick and playing around with the possibilities in a Vmod XL the one thing I noticed right away is there is nothing to prevent the positive post on the kick from just getting out of place and collapsing onto the firing post of the Vmod. Does something like the addition of the copper in there shore it up enough to prevent that from happening?

What also occurred to me: Why not just install the kick and battery in reverse direction to prevent that from happening? Positive post of the kick in contact with the battery spring and battery obviously "upside down" so battery negative is contacted by the firing pin. Just flip everything 180 around to keep the kick more stable. Since this is a mechanical wouldn't that work?
 

muzichead

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Rick, not sure it will work that way. I think someone in the big thread part2 tried and failed. It is just the way it was designed. I posted some pics in one of the threads about how I modded a faucet washer to place on top of the kick to keep it from entering up through to the button. I cut the washer to the height I needed and then cut out the U-shape for the potentiometer. It kept the kick very stable inside the chassis... Here's some pics.
20131119_171237.jpg20131119_171534.jpg
 
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