Kafun and Russian troubles. I have five authentics, and they all

Status
Not open for further replies.

Chelonian

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 9, 2014
976
707
Upper East TN
They all have the same issue. The positive block will turn and short during use.

I finally got sick of it, and ground down the corners of the block. No amount of tightening would solve it.

Also, the center post's resistance varies. It from the insulator that goes around the pin inside of the base.
I ended up having to cover the center pin with heat shrink type insulation.
I have four 91%'s one KFL, and two 3.1's.
They were fine for a few months, and I used the heck out of them. They are dented and scarred, but nothing other than cosmetic damage.

For the cost of these units, its a crock of sheet.
 

folkphys

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
What mod/mods are you using them on? Possible over-tightening of the mod's positive 510 pin and/or bottom cap/switch? Plus possible over-tightening of the atties onto said mod creating a near-deathgrip on your atties' center screws? With everything all tightened up, once you start twisting anything, like the switch or the atty, if those 510 pins are grabbing the crap out of each other the only part free enough to spin is your atty's center pin and thus the positive block.
 
Last edited:

jakematic

Super Member
Verified Member
Jun 1, 2014
794
1,867
Squonk Bottom Flats, NC
They all have the same issue. The positive block will turn and short during use.

Do you mean after it's attached to a mod ?

Are the R91s the type with the adjustable pin ?
The only way I've found to fix it is to remove the adjustable pin and screw in the outer pin while holding the block with pliers.

If they don't have the adjustable pin I've seen upgrade kits for them.

Can't speak to the Kayfun as I only have 2 R91s.
 

Chelonian

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 9, 2014
976
707
Upper East TN
No over tightening - for one thing, KFL and 91's were used on Provaris for my wife and I at work vape. If you over tighten it, it will through an E1 error right off the bat, and that lesson was learned the first time I used it - that is to say quite a few months before this problem occurred.

I used the 3.1 on my Poldiac almost exclusively.

One 91 is a V1 with the double screw type center post. The next two had that telescoping center pin, the one that had problems, so I replaced it with the center pin that was sent out as a fix - its the same as the V1 center.

The last one is the Black Russian, and came with the original style center pin.

The 3.1 is just a normal unit, about a year old, and the KFL is the pre plus version.

They all do the same thing - they work fine for a while, then start to short. I have replaced the block insulator, the center pin insulator, the washer on the smaller screw that connects to the mod's center pin.

I have even swapped parts between them.

The only fix was to grind the side of the center block around the air vent, and insulate the center pin. It's damn strange - at first, the block could rotate without coming into contact with the neg post.
 

folkphys

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
Ok then. I'm at a loss. Unless.....it is simply that you're not tightening the main center pin (hollow screw) enough. I mean real tight. For example, I grab the positive block with a pair of needle nose pliers and use a large ratcheting flat-head driver to snug up the main shaft. Then I put back in the baby 510 screw and tighten it just until I feel a bit of resistance in the pliers.

Which is exactly what Jake said.
 
Last edited:

blueGrassTubb

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 21, 2014
1,223
824
The Bluegrass
They all have the same issue. The positive block will turn and short during use.

I finally got sick of it, and ground down the corners of the block. No amount of tightening would solve it.

Also, the center post's resistance varies. It from the insulator that goes around the pin inside of the base.
I ended up having to cover the center pin with heat shrink type insulation.
I have four 91%'s one KFL, and two 3.1's.
They were fine for a few months, and I used the heck out of them. They are dented and scarred, but nothing other than cosmetic damage.

For the cost of these units, its a crock of sheet.

My authentic Russian 91% does that. It sits in the box.
 

crxess

Grumpy Ole Man
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2012
24,438
46,123
70
Williamsport Md
Immovable object meets unstoppable force.

You are tightening your Kafuns down to tight on the mods. Causing the Pin to twist and the positive post to rotate.

Options:
Snug, don't tighten
Polish off the edges of the center pin to reduce grab
Replace the center pins with Russian style adjustable pins
 

vapdivrr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
9,966
19,932
60
sarasota,fl
Don't have a Russian but do own 4 authentic kayfuns. Have been using them for a year and have not had one issue. Also own a provari and at one time or another have had each one of those kayfuns on it and never a problem or provari error. I'm also in the kayfun thread alot and can tell you that your issue with an authentic kayfun is not a common issue.
 

Chelonian

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 9, 2014
976
707
Upper East TN
crxess - the pins have been replaced in the Russians - and I have swapped parts between all of them

three of the four Russian nave brand new center pins - didn't solve the problem.

I have the problem in my 3.1 and KFL as well....although the 3.1 rarely has this issue.


I ended up having to both severely shave the positive block, AND insulate the center pin at the level of the deck.

It's as if the positive block has more horizontal play in it, allowing it to touch the neg post now. Before, the block could rotate during use and not short against the negative post (the movement would occur during normal use. just a slight shift)

It's got to be something that I have done, but for the life of me I don't know what. It's not like it's rocket science. the only thing that I can think is that I have beaten the h$ll out of them. But I don't see how that would chance the tolerances inside the tank. Problems with the 510 sure, but not the posts.
This isn't something that is cool to be special about

PS

Thanks for the brainstorming on this, guys. The strangest thing is that even though these atties were bought several months apart, they all started going bad within a few weeks of each other.
 
Last edited:

vapdivrr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
9,966
19,932
60
sarasota,fl
crxess - the pins have been replaced in the Russians - and I have swapped parts between all of them

three of the four Russian nave brand new center pins - didn't solve the problem.

I have the problem in my 3.1 and KFL as well....although the 3.1 rarely has this issue.


I ended up having to both severely shave the positive block, AND insulate the center pin at the level of the deck.

It's as if the positive block has more horizontal play in it, allowing it to touch the neg post now. Before, the block could rotate during use and not short against the negative post (the movement would occur during normal use. just a slight shift)

It's got to be something that I have done, but for the life of me I don't know what. It's not like it's rocket science. the only thing that I can think is that I have beaten the h$ll out of them. But I don't see how that would chance the tolerances inside the tank. Problems with the 510 sure, but not the posts.
This isn't something that is cool to be special about

PS

Thanks for the brainstorming on this, guys. The strangest thing is that even though these atties were bought several months apart, they all started going bad within a few weeks of each other.
Maybe there is a saboteur aloof.
 

folkphys

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
One more shot: bottom isolator installed upside down or not at all? Which might allow the center pin to wiggle around laterally even if it's fully tightened into the positive block. Or maybe that bottom isolator is the wrong size and either too loose around the center pin or too small inside the main shaft?
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread