Kafun and Russian troubles. I have five authentics, and they all

[Chelonian]

I wish...the 91% are 1:1 of course, and the few Russian/KFL swaps I tried seemed OK. I don't think that all part from the KFL would swap though. It's a V1 KFL...before the plus.

I am an electronics engineer, and this one has stumped me. The fact that it took BOTH shaving the + block and adding insulation to the center pin is what mystifies me.

EDIT

Alright, I have been thinking about it, and now I'm ....... These things have thrown down the gauntlet. Here I am, an engineer with 20 years of experience getting my ..... handed to me by a simple hunk of metal.

I am putting one back into it's original config and doing continuity tests. I have been lazy about this, but now my tech manliness has been challenged by a stone age piece of equipment. :/

 

[jakematic]

Oh Lord - don't get my paranoia going.

It's the dripper sub-ohm folks... shhhh

Candles and incense drive them away....

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

I wish...the 91% are 1:1 of course, and the few Russian/KFL swaps I tried seemed OK. I don't think that all part from the KFL would swap though. It's a V1 KFL...before the plus.

I am an electronics engineer, and this one has stumped me. The fact that it took BOTH shaving the + block and adding insulation to the center pin is what mystifies me.

EDIT

Alright, I have been thinking about it, and now I'm ....... These things have thrown down the gauntlet. Here I am, an engineer with 20 years of experience getting my ..... handed to me by a simple hunk of metal.

I am putting one back into it's original config and doing continuity tests. I have been lazy about this, but now my tech manliness has been challenged by a stone age piece of equipment. :/

Please post the results. I, curious. Haven't encountered any issues like this in my clones, save for one Tobeco kayfun Lite clone that I wound up giving away in frustration. I replaced the block, the insulator, the center pin, everything.... Never figured it out and chalked it up to being a flaw in a cheap clone. I've avoided Tobeco since.

 

[Elizabeth Baldwin]

I have 2 Russian 91s, 3 Kayfun Lites, and 1 Kayfun 3.1 (all authentic). No issues at all. I've had the 2 Russians and 1 of the Kayfuns for quite a while too. I have a few Kayfun clones that gave me trouble, but after some tweaking they now work flawlessly too.

Let us know how it turns out. Curious.

 

[crxess]

You are removing the Adjustable screw before tightening the pin I hope.
Cannot be anything beyond posted answers. 1 maybe but no way 4-5 will all have that issue.

If a Russian center pin is tight(TIGHT) and the adjusting pin is just slightly loose and you only snug your Tank it will not turn the post.

 

[Chelonian]

crxess

saw your post whilst troubleshooting the kayfun

Sorry, because I wasn't clear on one point - The post turning problem is occurs with my wife and my mother. I think that it is due to the mod being carried in laying down in a purse. however, this has always happened, and before the positive bloc had enough clearance to not touch the negative post.

I carry mine in upright in my pocket, or generally set it upright. I do, however, get the variable resistance problem as well. I don't often have the dead short issue in mine - while they have both problems.

What happens when I carry one is that the resistance will vary by as much as 4 ohms - very similar to the telescoping post problem in the V2 Russians- but the two V2's that I have had their center posts replaced at least a couple of months ago.

Adjusting either the contact pin, or removing the contact pin and checking/tightening the hollow center pin does nothing for the problem. Only by removing the entire center pin assembly would the problem be corrected for a day or two at most.

 

[nasca]

maybe your center pin is sitting a bit too proud and it catches on your provari, causing the rotation.

maybe try this: How to shorten the Kayfun Lite centre pin

 

[Chelonian]

Alright, I have isolated the fault to a specific area:

The base itself.

I can go to sleep now without this bothering me.
I will troubleshoot further tomorrow night.

Goodnight everyone

 

[folkphys]

Dead horse beating: The isolator I was referring to is the cylindrical one that slots into the base (from below) and would be the only thing keeping the entire center pin assembly from wobbling laterally. If you had to wrap tape around the bottom of the center pin, where was the isolator?

The FatDaddy replacement pins that I got did not come with this isolator. I ordered spares separately from KidneyPuncher.

It is number 16 in this pic:

 

[crxess]

Wife and Mother......May be a part of the issue(maybe) I carry several of mine tossed in a soft lunch bag without issues.
Consider Knit covers for their units.

Even have one that rides on a Zamboni up to 10hrs. a day, laying on its side.
First thing I would consider is a Bad run of bottom Grommets(unlikely, but possible) They should be as rigid as the Positive post insulator. This establishes a dead tight position. If compressing under pressure, they will allow the movement when tightening.

I Gave up on small resistance variations long ago. Seems the 510 connection is the most likely suspect Next is coil expansion/contraction.
Coils in use have constant minute fluctuations. 510 connections get dirty/tarnished/contaminated.
Often a simple loosen/tighten snaps the reading back to expected values.

I swear, If we let them these devices would drive us Nutz

 

[xyanide]

I dropped my kayfun lite with 18650 Zmax attached on concrete from chest height, it landed on the top edge of the kayfun, no shorts. (I feel lucky the Zmax didn't even pop)
I never had much of coil fluctuations ever since I stopped using SS mesh and a vamo. I never heard anybody with issues like yours.
If it's appearing in that close of a time span of one another I'm thinking it must be in the way somebody built them, tightened the screws and most likely over tightened on the mod.

 

[slyphex]

I have an authentic R91 and it has the same problem. It's a design flaw, imo. I can remove the adjustable center pin and tighten the hollow pin that threads into the positive post, but it loosens over time.

If the center pin protrudes too far, when you screw the atty into your mod it will compress the orings on the adjustable pin and push the entire center pin assembly (that is threaded into the positive post) upwards, lifting it off the Delrin insulator and causing the positive post to swivel and probably short.

 

[Chelonian]

I found the problem. It was in the base.
Its no surprise, seeing as everything had been swapped out, and it had to be the atomizers.
The surprise is that it happened to all of them.
Its the part of the center pin channel above the air vent and threads.
The threads end without being finished - therefore, since threads are angled, they travel slighty further up one one side.
This allows the Delrin insulator sleeve that goes down the center pin channel from underneath the positive block to slip further down on one side.
It's not much but it's enough to allow the delrin insulator sleeve to be pushed off center, thus allowing the center pin to angle closer to the negative post making it short immediately upon any turning of the + block.
This was compounded by me using 26AWG, the thicker wire cutting down on clearance from an already tight fit.

Rounding the block helped, but it was the heat shrink insulator i put on the center pin that pushed the center pin back to level.

It could've also been solved by shaving a couple of milimeter from the delrin sleeves....and that way would've been eaiser for me as well.

Ahh well. Hindsight is 20/20 and all that