Kanger going down hill?

[DaxFX]

I dont know if im the only who notice this, i was using my originals protank with no issues for a wile at first i didnt liked because the open draw, then i started to liked more and more everytime, back in aug or sept i ordered the PT2 the first coil i use was an incredible full flavor vape, when was time to ordered new coils, dam this PT2 is horrible i cant vape higher than 5.5-6.0w or i will get a burn taste, the same thing happened with all new coils i try on it.

I gave kanger another chance and bought the mini PT2 wile on vacation on november and visit a vapeshop the mini was awesome wile i was on my trip, as soon i got home and ordered a couple of pack of new coils, dam again same burn and low flavor.

Im the only one? this PT works awesome at first then after the first coil they are trash

I recived today another pack of coils, i gave a little time to see newer batch of coils are fixed, dam again same burn taste, it is the protank itself? Are the coils? Any one have a coil "clone" recommendation

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[eMats]

Protanks aren't the problem, it's the heads that sucks. If you learn to build your own heads, and it ain't difficult at all, then you'll see nothing less than EXCELLENT performance from them. Learn to build a nano micro coil out of Kanthal/cotton off of YouTube - that's what I did. My Protanks work flawlessly now - no gurgle, no dry hits, no problems whatsoever. As a matter of fact they perform brilliantly from top to bottom of liquid in the tank.

 

[HawaiiVPR]

The Protank design is definitely one of the best out there if you look beyond out of the box performance. You may be correct that the QC on replacement coils may have gone down, but keep in mind that the option to improve the performance is readily available at your discretion. I can only suggest that you DO NOT throw away the coils you feel are faulty, keep them on the side. You may soon start on the path of rebuilding your own coil/wicks which will definitely breath new life to your Protank and your overall vaping experience.

However, for those who don't like the idea of rebuilding, or have no intention to ever go that route, there are better options available to you such as the Innokin clearomizers (cannot be rebuilt, its basically set it and forget it) and/or a simple Cartomizer system, also a set and forget vape.

But if you are considering the route of re-building your Protank coils, believe me, the learning curve is very short. An initial investment of an Ohm meter, 30 ft spool of Kanthal wire and a bag of cotton balls is really all you need. From there on, it pennies to the dollar every time you need to change out your coil, not to mention enhanced flavor and vapor output.

Good luck with your vaping!

 

[Craig_B]

A head cost $1.99-$3.00 depending on vendor and quantities. A roll of 150' of resistance wire is $6.00! Using cotton you can change your wicks, the coils last forever. Love my PT2,and PTmini.

 

[mightymen]

DIY your coil/wicks put you in control and sound like a good workable idea to me!

Only takes a few min to build a head. You can add or take away wick or add more coils to increase ohms even use thin or thicker wire Best of all it costs pennies to build.

Sure it's easy to have someone else build it for you and give them money for it but your giving up being in control and have to accept what they give you. The choice is yours!

 

[Rickajho]

What resistance coils did you actually order? The 1.8 ohm coils can be overkill even as low as 3.2 volts. Been there, done that, never use the 1.8 ohm coils. They just get too hot, too fast for most liquids and can't wick fast enough.

 

[SirSteve]

I think part of that is the price of success, Kanger has really found a niche in the topper market. They might be having a hard time filling all the demand. So bad products goes out the door because it is a numbers thing.

That and the conditions these people work under. Remember the company that put nets around their building because their workers would rather commit suicide than continue to work there? Suicidal workers probably aren't concerned about quality.

 

[Steamix]

Kanger going downhill - I beg to differ.

Whatever I click on at their webshop is likely to be sold out, except for some really gaudy colors which aren't my thing...

I just hope that Kanger will resist the temptation of revving up output at the expense of quality and quality control.

Apart from that, own wick'n wire tastes much higher...

 

[DaveP]

Kanger obviously values production over quality. That, and I imagine that the supplier feedback link isn't getting the message to Kanger as well as it could. Maybe it's because we don't email our vendor and tell them that 2 or 3 heads out of a 5-pack don't produce the vape we have learned to expect.

I also wonder if lots of clones are making it into the market and we can't immediately tell the difference. All the heads I've checked with an eye loupe have the ohm value laser tattooed on the bottom base ring. Is that a real Kanger head or are there back door knockoffs coming out the back door of the same factory on 3rd shift? Can we tell by close examination?

 

[EL Pistoffo]

I have rebuilt a few of my Kanger coils but I personally found the stock coils work quite well after making just one change, the wick.
The stock silica woks are completely horrible IMO. Ever since I started replacing them with cotton they have performed very well, no dry hits or burning. Using the correct amount of cotton is paramount. Too much and it will not wick correctly and dry hit/burn. No flavor wicks needed. I use 2.2 ohm and 2.5 ohm stock coils. I actually prefer them over my micro coils.

 

[WorksForMe]

I don’t think QC at Kanger is going down hill. It’s never been real good. Over a year ago there were lots of posts here about poor QC and possible knockoffs with the original one piece T3 coils.

IMO, they need to come up with a better process for building coils. Sometimes they’re wrapped too tight, which leads to dry hits. Sometimes they’re wrapped too loose, which leads to gurgling and flooding. Fortunately, these problems can usually be fixed pretty easily by adding or removing wick above the coil.

I’m not really interested in cartomizers, RBAs, or all the new dual coil clearos, so I’ll just deal with the minor problems with Protank and T3S coils until something better comes along.

J.R.

 

[DaxFX]

What resistance coils did you actually order? The 1.8 ohm coils can be overkill even as low as 3.2 volts. Been there, done that, never use the 1.8 ohm coils. They just get too hot, too fast for most liquids and can't wick fast enough.

You got a good point, i was buying 1.5 and 1.8.

@everyone that can help,
I have some rba', rda' i have few miles of wire 28, 30, 32, organic cotton and some 3mm silica, i build good coils on my rda's and exelent micro-coils for russian 91%, and lately i buld my first micro on my RSST and was such a good vape, but if i try to build a coil for my protank i do get burnt taste but not a juice burned or dry hit more like a rubber burned taste, why im getting this rubber taste on rebuilded pt?


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[AegisPrime]

Have you dry-burnt the coil or heated it up to pinch the coil tight? You may have burnt the grommet at the bottom of the head. Newer ones are supposed to be more heat resistant - perhaps you have an older PT head?

 

[DaxFX]

Yes, must be older ones since my last try to rebuild was like 3 month ago or more. The only time i pinch the coils is for micro coils, i pinch them with a twizer and torch them to keep all coils together but thats only for my russian and my rda's,

What you suggest, try a micro coil on protank heads? For a normal build what size of silica I should use on those heads?


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[Pinggolfer]

Here is my Kanger ProTank 2 using a Kanger Mini Protank 2 base. No leaks, no dry hits, no gurgle sounds.

 

[Pinggolfer]

You can always use this new product. KangerTech AeroTank Base - Sun-Vapers.com

 

[dale1962]

You can always use this new product. KangerTech AeroTank Base - Sun-Vapers.com

Anyone use this with PT2 with any success?Does it tighten the draw well?I use a airflow tank controller now with my PT2 but still not quite tight enough for my liking...

 

[Pinggolfer]

Anyone use this with PT2 with any success?Does it tighten the draw well?I use a airflow tank controller now with my PT2 but still not quite tight enough for my liking...

I have found the PT2 to work much better since I started using the PT2 Mini base.

 

[AegisPrime]

What you suggest, try a micro coil on protank heads? For a normal build what size of silica I should use on those heads?

Check out RipTripper's video or the microcoil discussion thread on ECF.